1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Shut, those are easy. The 3.4 is miserable for starters.

I’d rather it be under the intake manifold than the exhaust manifold (5.7 you have no choice but to remove the whole damn exhaust)

 

That's an unfortunate design

 

Super easy to do

I'm sure you've had your table longer than I've had mine

I cut 10 gauge, 12 gauge, 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" on it all successfully

The little dross it had just came off with my finger

 

had longer =/= experience lol

I am mostly cutting 1/8" steel materials

I really do need to do something similar to what you are doing and market/sell all the nifty bits I make

 

Have to really get into other gauges, and decide from there what makes sense to use on what

Many people use 18 gauge for signs and whatnot

I use 16 gauge, unless it's going outdoors then 12 gauge

10 gauge for parts that can be interchanged with 3/16" but need to be strong

3/16" for mostly vehicle parts

1/4" for most of the shops vehicle parts, combined with some 3/16"

Got another stand I want to make myself which will utilize some of the extra 12 gauge I have, and all the 8" x 10" voids between those pieces from yesterday will get lawn ornaments cut out for my wife and MIL

 

Also at 1/8" you want to be closer to about 65 ipm, 34 amps, and 0.8 second pierce delay

Moving too slow will cause hardened dross on the back side not to mention you'll eat up consumables even faster

 

that is exactly what happens lol

 

I actually kinda forgot that... with the R150, my own headers and 2GR I can get starter out in 15 mins or so

 

What was your solution to mating up a GR to the R150 again?

 

Bolts

 

So the 1GR and 2GR the same bellhousing pattern as the VZ? I have weird plans involving an A750 if so

 

It's the best thing when you can pull up a part you just cut right off the table and have no dross at all

This was literally right off the table and was still dripping from the water table





I do get some hard dross on 16 gauge, but that's because I cut too slow on it at 90ipm

Some people cut 16 gauge at 150ipm and another dude even posted 200ipm so I'll have to experiment later; here's a 16 gauge piece I cut



Did have to run the wire wheel on an angle grinder a little bit on the backside but not for long

 

I really need to commit to an "experiment" day

 

yeah, sorry I edited to add the link.

1GR I have not checked for myself

 

You'll really find out if your stuff is fully squared up once you're cutting parts where cleanliness and/or precision counts

 

I don't know why I watched that whole thing but this guy is nuts.

@treyus30 you ever see one of these things out there?

https://youtu.be/-6vzjjIrRK8?si=N3huJbAlY7Kd4RHt

 

I generally design in some flexability/adjustability to increase tolerance. heck the warp just from welding is enough to drive the requirement

 

That's why you use jigs and clamps

 

clamps -> yes
Jigs -> seldom
re-heating -> seldom

if I were trying to make "production" weldments I would fixture more, I have enough extruded aluminum for it...

 

1GR appears to have the starter on the wrong side, I'd have to see if a 2GR AC60 bell fits on an A750 I guess. Or just use the AC60... I dunno, not an urgent project