New TVS1320 MAGNUSON 3.4 supercharger available 30 percent larger rotors!

Yours is black but they seem to only make them in blue, did you paint yours?

 

I got mine from snpspeed.com.
It’s a modified version for the 3.4 with the correct size barbs fitting and the correct hose and clamps

 

Right, but on their own website they state its blue (even though the pic is of a black one).

I'm on the war-path to put my OEM injectors back in and use their FMU kit to give me 'limp home' ability if my piggy has a failure. I now have had two separate Greddy EMUs have intermittent glitches, i think their solder age is showing.

I want a black FMU to keep the OEM like look in the engine bay.

 

I wouldn't count on any changes on the nose cone from Maggy. If changing the nose cone implies changing to a smaller pulley, then CARB EO certification will be impacted. I doubt Maggy would want to jump thru those hoops again. Just my $0.02

 

I would agree with this thinking. Magnuson is very aware of CARB and will not do or support anything that tries to work around that limitation.

I am a little surprised that simply machining away some material will allow the application of a smaller pulley without compromising the snout. I makes me wonder why that extra material is there in the casting in the first place.

Being a Magnuson cynic based on my past, direct interactions with them, I wouldn't be surprised if that 'extra interference' wasn't placed there on purpose to discourage end users from doing exactly this.

 

Not just for CARB but I think they package a lot of their S/Cs with warrantees (not just S/C but also to the drivetrain of the car/truck) so they wouldn't want it easy to crank it up then put the OEM pulley on later.

Shame cause looks like we finally have a blower that doesn't max out ~9psi at sea level. I think there are a few people here that have said the 2.1 pully (10'ish psi) is already just a hot-air blower and no power to be made there and beyond.

Will be interesting to see numbers from those brave enough to shave material and go even smaller. I think for me if this new blower really is the bees-knees its said to be I'll be happy with 8psi of 30% more efficient, cooler, denser, and 30'ish HP parasitically mitigated power. That really should be A LOT more than what I make now with 2.2 pulley around 9.5psi, that TBH I haven't gone WOT on for ages as my WOT tune is way too rich and I have lots of leaks to patch up.

 

Running the 2.1" pulley with the Haltech has me hooked, so there is no way I would replace it if I can't get the same power output with the TVS1320 and a limited size pulley.

BTW, why haven't youtried the Haltech stand alone yet? Looks like you have tried various setups.

 

CARB + just haven't been big on standalones/standalone-hybrids from past experience.

Love that I can get smogged, get pulled over or even side-of-the-road BAR'ed (happens in SoCal) and not have an issue.

 

The 1320 with the 65mm pulley came in at almost 300hp and 315 QT and my belt was slipping just a little,
1320 has a lot more power without heat soaked issues and full boost is much sooner

 

Does the snout need to be machined to use the 65mm pulley? How much boost, at sea level, is the 65mm pulley designed for?

 

No, the snout doesn’t need to be modified and shaving the snout would gain only a few mm.
The 65mm will work with the current snout.
At 6000 feet + 65mm I get 5 pounds of boost compared to the 8 sometimes 9 from the old supercharger.
The 5 pounds from the new supercharger is significantly more power than the old maxed out ported 1.9 pulley old supercharger because of efficiency and lack of heat issues and new rotor design

another tvs1320 just got tuned at sea level and was at 7.5 boost but belt started slipping over 4000rpms.
The belt was not adjusted tight enough at the alternator location.
Boost probably will be 8-9 which is a lot at rotors being 30 percent bigger and 4 lobes instead of 3 and the rotors twist at 160 degrees instead of 60 degrees,

it really a completely different supercharger on every level

 

He said they are black FYI
Not blue

 

Done, need a pulley to get back where the gen1 was with a 2.1/2.0 pulley. It’s been ordered so I’m just waiting for it to ship.

 

Excellent neighborhood,
What pulley size and what tuning are you going?

 

That thing hangs out over v/c a little more it looks like.

 

Are you not boosted yet and not planning on running any fuel mods with your 1320 if you buy one?

A couple friends have the 7th injector and pass smog because it looks so low profile and it doesn’t get noticed. I’m planning on going with that, Fic 6 or Hal tech (would convert back to stock for the Hal tech every 2 years for smog) with my og trd black sc.

 

It's a little longer, a little taller a little wider

 

65mm so far. I would like smaller for sure.

AEM FIC currently, I’ll jump to the Haltec soon but that’s a new engine harness and injectors. My current harness has been cut up to much to use with a stand alone.

Are you on the north side of town?

 

I'm boosted, in fact I bought this truck used with the TRD blower already on it. Previous owner was stock fuel system though and it pinged at anything above vacuum so I started with an AEM FIC and ran into the cam/crank noise bug they have requiring 2.2k ohm bridge resistors, then later noticed ping during auto trans shifts (lots of cars advance timing during trans shift). So I eventually moved to a greddy EMU as it has more features such as a map to retard timing during auto trans shifts, closed loop tuning via A/F gauge input (obviously enabled only in open loop regions) and can actually advance timing (it intercepts the IGT signals, not just the cam/crank signals) BUT (BIG BUT) it doesn't have closed loop a/f control via o2 signal taps like the AEM. So I also had to throw in a split second thing that all it does is tap the boost line and skew o2 signals via rheostat settings.

Since both the AEM and Greddy control larger injectors with ease I went with 650'ish CC injectors, figured yolo and I like E85. But something neat with the FIC is they provide a bypass harness and I want to do something similar with the Greddy in case something dies on the piggy, and those huge ass injectors like that will leave me stranded even if I bypass the piggy so I'm looking to go back to OEM injectors and use an FMU for increased fuel under boost like @1997tacomav6 . Maybe if I dabble with E85 again and the OEMs+FMU max out too soon I can dabble with something like 318cc or slightly larger- that size is known small enough for the OEM ECU to tune around but will through a trim code later- I'm fine with that as long as it can get back to stoich and get me home.

Hell going back to OEM injectors will get me a small MPG gain too as most OEM style injectors that have been modded to increase fuel flow like my current ones do so at the expense of atomization. Hell saw a review of FiveO 318cc and FiveO saying something about those getting better atomization than OEM and MPGs should go up. FMU increasing pressure IMO helps atomization even more which is good for cooling down boost.

Just gotta let the piggy bank fill up a bit before pulling the trigger on these things.

All of the above is PNP and behind the glove box so inspection wouldn't be an issue.

 

I am currently on this fence too. Go big 650cc injectors for better tunability with a haltech 750, or run the stock replacement denso 252cc I picked up from motowest and throw in the SNP 3:1 FMU.

I forget how the math worked out, but I believe it comes out to about 350cc injectors while under boost with the fmu. My concern is just that it may not be enough when I go with a smaller pully on the new 1320.

I decided to go with the DeatschWerks 255 LPH fuel pump as well, hoping that was the correct move