Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Curious why he's going away from the WFO kit. Truck looks great. I've contemplated swapping to the 4WU but don't see the cost vs benefit to be there. is that a custom interior cage? whats his tcase setup? Is that a radiator guard in the front??

 

Probably because radius arms don’t flex worth a fuck. I did my own radius arm once, then went to a 3 link. Hell, I’m back to a leaf spring truck instead of using radius arms again lol

 

Radius arm is garbage if you rock crawl. It's good for what it is, in town and fire service road usage.

I knew a guy who bought a truck with wfo kit previously installed, it drove decent on paved road but like crap offroad. He ended up cutting everything off to go leaf spring because he didn't have the funds to redo the suspension to a 3 link geometry. He swear with Rancho 44044 springs and tuned Fox shock, it performed 10x better than it did with radius arm.

 

I priced out the kit when I was making sure I had all the parts and before shipping it was roughly 4500 dollars. He wants to add bypasses which was the main upgrade and more flex. I wheeled with him at sand hollow and thought the thing flexed well and he did pretty much everything I did. I wish it had shocks so I could go to the place I test mine to see how it compares.

yeah cage is by sloanmotorsports on Instagram. He was supposed to do the 3 link but just had a horrible accident and the family needed to clear his shop out so that’s how I got called.

tcase I forget. It’s got a crawl box though but don’t think it’s Toyota stuff. Stock 3.4 though with the a340.

Front is just the bumper. I’m doing an engine cage on it as well

 

I thought the truck looked familiar. Have you heard any update on Brandon since the wreck?

 

When I picked up the truck they said he was responsive to certain things and doing better but sedated while they finish surgeries. The family has kept it pretty private which I support.

 

That’s good. I support them keeping it private too. I just hadn’t seen or heard anything so figured I’d ask.

 

Such a bummer, he's a good human. Hope he pulls through. As you mentioned they have been pretty quiet, last update was a few days ago saying he’s still stable and comfortable.

 

You can get them to flex, you need to either remove one of the upper arms before hitting the trail or make a wristed upper arm. A friend built one on a zj back in the early 2000s, flexes for days, but you need to take parts off to do it. At that point you may as well just have a 3link.

 

That cage looks sweet!!

 

got a few things to iron out buuuuuut.....

 

Couple groups going to AOP this Friday-Sunday if anyone is interested

 

yeah hopefully things work out for the best. If people can support tkoffroad is still selling his stickers and all earnings go to the family.

it’s all tig welded too. Super clean. I took a lot of pictures and videos to use on my cage

 

I have a question about brake master cylinders.

I'm nearly done with the my SAS on my 99 4Runner. Today I installed my coilovers and noticed a slight interference with my master cylinder and the reservoir hose elbow (see photo below). I was never intending to keep my original master cylinder and I haven't bought a new one yet. Given this interference issue I would like to purchase a master cylinder that will give me good clearance of the elbow. I was originally going to purchase a GM 1-ton master cylinder with a 1-5/16" bore, but looking at the size and location of the front outlet I think I'm going to have interference issues. I'm starting to do some research on other options, I'm hoping someone from TW may help me find a solution.

Some tech specs:
Axles are from 2004 Superduty (front and rear)
My 4runner has a stock dual diaphram booster with two horizontal mounting screws for the MC

Options from my limited research:

1. 2004ish Superduty MC - Outlets are toward the engine, but body is long so may still have interference issue. I believe it will bolt straight to my booster with slight wallowing of the holes (need confirmation).
2. T100 1ton MC - Need to confirm the overall length, but it appears this MC doesn't have the side chamber that is causing my interference issue now. Would need to switch boosters to fit.

Other potential options I'm throwing out there after browsing through photos of master cylinders on Summit Racing:

1. 2007/2008 Suburban/Tahoe/Escalade MC - 1.25" bore, this MC appears to be pretty short, no idea if it'll bolt to my booster easily
2. 2016 E350 MC - 1-5/16" bore, another shorter looking MC, again no idea if it'll bolt to my booster easily
3. 2012 F250 MC (same as above)

I can also redo my coilover mount but only as a last resort.

Thanks!

 

Yeah my wfo kit actually does pretty well to be a basic radius arm. I put it in the same places as my buddy's stretched 3 link TJ and it drives on the road at 80 mph. I saw where Blake from WFO compared his two Tacoma's he's had with the WFO 3 link and the WFO radius arm kit and he said he preferred the radius arm kit for how good it was in the rocks and still able to maintain amazing road manners. Maybe one day when it's a trailer queen i'll swap to something a little more flexy but I can't complain as much as people tend to say radius arms are trash.

 

We've got a big group going to Tackett Creek / Sandmines October 6-8th if you're interested. It's a big Toyota group (anyone is welcome) every year called SETO.
It was once a thing by TTORA but that kinda died out and it's just a bunch of us from SC/GA now. It's a good time. At night we do like a big tailgate with fried wings and everything like that.
No fee to join in just help pay for the wings if you can. Of course there's the fee to camp and fee to ride permit for the Tennessee wildlife whatever but we don't control that in any way.

 

Any pictures of the wristed upper arm? Is it just one?
When removing one of the upper arms does it matter which one?
Curious to how it'd perform, might try it out lol

 

It was pretty common in the jeep world, I remember them being a pin you would pull out and it would allow the arm to rotate and telescope a bit. This was like 2002 level tech though, things may have changed LOL!!

As for pulling the arm, my friend would pull the pax "non diff" side arm off when airing down and it would have tons of flex, like pop the coils out by a foot level flex. I can't remember what side he would pull off the rear. I almost did a radius arm setup when I did my SAS but decided leafs were good enough and went that route.

 

I may have to try the non diff side and see what happens since I have coil overs.

 

Can anyone with a dual diaphram booster and a T100 1ton MC make this same measurement for me (from the back lip of the booster to the front of the MC)? If I stay under 10.5 inches I should clear.