Valve adjustment at 260k

Just a possible as when I bought mine, the guy was contemplating those parts for a similar miss. It turned out to be a dirty MAF.

 

Interesting, I've been fooling with this vehicle for about a year. I cleaned the maf and it greatly improved the running of it. I am thinking that is worth revisiting. I'm stuck on the idea that it's the combination of a few things. It's wholly frustrating. I went to start to measure clearance Saturday but got rained out. I tested all ignition components from the coil to the plug and all is good electrically on that end. I'm waiting for a scope to verify injector function and pintle operation. The truck sat for about 3 years before I got it. I've replaced the exhaust from front to back and solved a number of codes so far with it running better and better with each job but it's this faint almost miss at idle after warmup cycle. It's probably bad input from a sensor. I also need to test the ect sensor but on live data it seems to be correct at ambient at startup and blah blah blah blah

 

Valves are the new balljoints

 

Yea, I'd have to agree. My dad had a 97 2.4 and it had 400k miles and he never did anything of the sort. I just overthink everything.

 

all these 20+ yr. old engines are prob. due. to be at least looked at. I agree our engine families are so mild they don't pound seats too bad though. Last motorcycle I had rec'd every 10K mile adjustments.

 

Starting in the a.m. I'll post what I find out. All these jobs get drug out over weeks. I need like a year off work to get both of these trucks perfect. Next task is w59 rebuild

 

Cylinder 1 ex.1 is at the min. Cylinder 4 int.1 and int.2 need sorted. I've put it all back together and I guess I need to figure what size shims I'll need. I guess that means dis assembly and measuring the actual shims then doing the formula. Wonder if it being that close can even be shimmed?

 

What I would do if I were you......is plan for it being out of service for week or so..

jerk those 3 out and post what you need.....or just order em from lc engineering...they keep most 3rz/2rz engine stuff in stock...

One or two here might already have what u need....

I keep the two smallest ones...

 

Thanks, yeah I'll go ahead and order the tool to remove them. I wanted to check first and see if any were out beforehand. That's the only irritating part about this is the downtime without shims on deck

 

They are about $10ea from Toyota, but you may be able to use the ones you take off on other valves. For example I needed to change 8 total, but 3 I was able to swap. These don’t really wear so I’d keep the old ones.

Also, the tool is always on back order. It’s easy to use a flat head and a magnet to remove the shims.

 

I was able to snag the tool set from yotashop for like 50 bucks shipped or so today

 

I've got Sunday off so hopefully the mics and shim tool get here by then so I can determine what 3 shims I need to order

 

Well the number 4 rear intake closest to the fire wall was a bear. Got all 3 out and measured.
Cyl 1 e1 0.119 cyl 4 int.1 0.115 int.2 0.114.

 

Got the 3 shims and one extra in case. Ordered from lcengineering and they were super helpful over the phone. I almost always call these places to order. Rarely do I just order online. Anyway, I'll wrap this puppy up Saturday. I'm also gonna inspect and clean the actual egr unit.then move on to injectior inspection. They sound fine with a stethoscope but ill try to get the waveform on my uscope for each of them. Anyway I'm pretty confident that this truck is gonna be rock solid for a good while after this and if not I'll just fix it. I would've posted a number of photos but 90 percent of the time I try to post pics it turns it into a pain The ass waiting for it to allow me so I just give up

 

Ok just wrapped it up with a new valve cover gasket etc and she runs super good. I'm moving on to cleaning the egr and injectors. Thanks for the tips and motivation yall. Anyone of us can do this job. The ones near the firewall suck and if you don't have the holder tool straight vertical and not twisted right or left blocking the damn shims path into and out of the bucket your in for a bit of a fight. Otherwise straightforward job

 

Just saying after 2 weeks post valve adjustment the truck sings down the road. Tip in is great and it's just crazy smooth thru the whole rpm range. I cleaned the tb and iac. Replaced the exhaust from front to back, put in a new clutch and flywheel etc, Replaced a couple of sensors(that tested bad) and replaced the suspension. By far the best improvement (besides new clutch) has been from adjusting the valves. Looking back I should have compression tested and checked valve clearance before spending the first dime on the truck. But we got a dandy now for sure!