DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Idk dude but it’s ur transmission so I’d say go for Toyota WS ATF
It’s not that expensive…

 

On my full flush per this procedure, I used Valvoline MAX life. The back of the jug states it is compatible with WS. If you're just doing a drain fill you may want to stick with the WS.

 

If you read this thread most guys will use and recommend Valvoline MaxLife as it is WS compatible

 

Do you recall the 15/16 socket needing to specifically be low profile otherwise it won't fit on space to reach the refill plug?

 

A standard socket (not deep well) should work just fine for the fill plug. I think it's a 24mm hex iirc

 

Doing my 60k trans flush.... old fluid purple? Red tint. 1.9 qts out of the overflow another 1.2 out of the drain. Bought with 13 miles on OD....thoughts?

 

You should open the drain first and get approx. 3 qts. The overflow is used when you’re refilling and temp checking for the correct level.

The overflow has nothing to do with draining the old fluid.
You refill through the fill hole. There a total of 3 holes. See post 1

 

Hey! Looking for opinions.

My 2013 TRD OR 4.0L automatic with 152K miles on it may have NEVER had this done. I'm thinking of doing a dump/fill to test the waters and see what I'm working with. I'd likely get a sample and send out for testing after.
-Currently, no transmission issues whatsoever and it shifts totally fine.
-The previous owner towed with it probably more than most as he was a contractor. He'd firmly told me that despite never changing it, it had never overheated on him or given him any issues.
-All other signs have shown that this vehicle has had a rough life before me owned it

I want to know!
-Would you feel good about doing a dump fill given the trucks current condition/history?
-OEM fluid from the dealer?
-Anyone recommending pulling the pan, cleaning the magnet/pan, and replacing the filter considering how long it could have been?

(I recently ran the odds on my 2006 Honda Ridgeline even after having a couple transmission overheating issues and the things shifts better after the flush believe it or not)

 

I would recommend dropping the pan and looking at the magnets to see how much metal has collected.

 

Thanks for the input! I'm tending to agree with your opinion based on what I've read so far.

Two follow-up questions:
-Do you think it's imperative that I do a full flush as the thread directs? I am personally wanting to drop the pan and do just a dump/fill/screen&pan cleaning
-Would you happen to know how much fluid I'd need when dropping the pan? I'd imagine I'd need a tad more than just the dump fill when doing it this way. I'd just buy 3qts OEM fluid
-Would you recommend cleaning the stainer by backflowing with brake cleaner or just replacing the whole assembly/o-ring? (no actual 'filter' correct?)

Thanks!

 

In reference to your question, I’d defer to the resident expert @gearcruncher.

I performed a full flush around 87000 and switched over to MaxLife. Prior to performing the flush, I dropped the pan and changed the filter/strainer. For shits and giggles, I replaced all the pan bolts and I’ll probably soak the original bolts and reuse them when I do a pan drop and filter change. No flush this time, 120000 miles, and I’ll add 10 oz of lube guard, not because I don’t have problems, but to prevent them.

 

Take the pan off gentlemen .
You are not doing yourselves any favors by simply flushing the transmission without cleaning the transmission pan , screen and magnets .
I understand its more work compared to getting a flush performed .
A flush is easier and the pan doesnt have to come off , however there is huge risk involved here for sure .
Do you honestly know whats laying in the bottom of your transmission pan ?
Different story for the guys that keep up with transmission services .
First service at 150k should be a pan drop

 

I did my 1st flush at 60k, Ill do next at 110k and do the pan and screen.

 

Fantastic writeup by Mountain Lion. Getting ready to do the flush on this new equipment since I want to check fluid level anyway.
Just 16,000 mi on a 2023 V6 auto 3.5L, on which 12,000 mi has been towing 3000# in fourth gear or less at 3000-4000 rpm in a fully loaded truck.
Scangauge reads 194F normal highway usage in 4th gear towing; long hill climbs 3rd or even 2cd gear temp climbs to 214 to 219F.
What is an acceptable upper temp limit?
Should I add a full tranmission aftercooler when I do the flush?
Should I drop the tranmission pan and check magnets?

thanks all.

 

Yes, its worth while to drop the pan and clean the magnets.

You can google "ATF temp chart" or something similar. I wouldn't be worried with the temps you see. General rule of thumb is short temp spikes are ok, but prolonged temps much over the low 200's *F will start to reduce the life of ATF. About 250*F is where the fluid starts to break down faster

Note that this is the 2nd gen section. Off the top of my head Im not sure if the temp check procedure (or temp range) is different for 3rd gens or not.

 

Since you have a new vehicle your manual says full service at 60k.

Just do a D&F at 15k. No need to drop pan. ( pan holds 3 qts. Buy 4 )

When you hit 60k with the above procedure you have done 4 D&F = full service.

You have a new vehicle and now have the opportunity to keep the fluid clean and refreshed. No need to drop pan and replace gaskets and all that mess. Keep it simple and logical.

 

Thanks folks

 

I dropped the pan at 60k and it was not that bad, probably drained and filled it at 30K but I will be doing the drain and fill every 15k going forward and also the gear oil every 30k. Spent probably about $250 for everything and the dealer quoted me $299 for drain flush fill the trans only. Having a good OBD2 would have been helpful as I had too much fluid then was able to get it just right.

Now I have a good OBD2 for the same cost as the dealership quoted for all the fluids.

 

Did you ever get your truck into A/T Temp Mode?

Currently in the same situation with my 2014.

After 6 shift I’m able to get the A/T Temp light to illuminate for 2 seconds. Once shifting into park, it doesn’t illuminate again.

I’ve been idling the truck for about 30 mins and I’m not sure if I’m even in the correct mode.

 

An OBDII reader that will read the pan temp is really the way to go. Takes out all the guess work.

But what is your ambient temp outside? If its cold out, it can take a very long time to warm up.