Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I have the regular duty H70s and I can load the rear just by standing in the bed. I probably should've went to the HD's as Harry suggested. Hindsight is 20/20. I'm also under shocked at 2.0s. Unloaded, it's great. If I'm loaded down with a camping gear though, I'm not getting full use of my travel. Thinking about getting a small enclosed trailer and converting it to a camper and then I can just keep all my gear in it and leave my truck unloaded on the trails. I think I have 10-15k+ miles on the setup?

 

Deaver will make custom add a leafs for their springs. Or at least they used to. That’s what I did on my old DMZ setup. Then when I changed the geometry around I ended up needing to pull the add a leaf and one of the main leafs out as well.

 

Good to know.

 

Really kind of surprised. I recently added my 5th leaf back into the pack on my H70HD’s. And I don’t carry any weight in the rear. IMO, it’s pretty much spot on.

Have you done any serious shock tuning yet?

 

Interesting, mines pretty stiff unloaded. I haven’t done much shock tuning, but I’ve played with the tubes. Overlapping style bypass, rebound tube 1 turn open, I forget how open I left the comp tubes but if I remember theyre about 6-8 turns open. Idk if you’re suppose to measure the set screw by rotations or threads.

No idea what valving is on the piston. Probably something generic for a mid-size truck. I ordered them from a local shop forever ago.

 

I ran h70hd with an empty bed a lot and it never felt stiff, but I tuned my shocks for the setup. Try opening your bypass tubes all the way and see what happens, then dial it back from there. If it's still too stiff fully open you'll need to revalve the shocks.

 

Unloaded is no spare, fuel, or some tools. I regularly have those in the bed so the tubes are good. It gets loaded with even more gear for trips. They’ll need a rebuild soon so that’s when I’ll take a look at the piston. Tube adjustment has been fine so I doubt the valving is far off. That was more of just feedback of how the springs handle have been handling weight. I love the way the SUA performs.

 

6-8 turns open tells me the valving is probably not right. I believe there’s about 9 total turns per tube if I recall. I sit at about a turn and a half from fully closed. Small chatter is basically not dampened at all when your tubes are wide open.

How warm are the shocks getting after a solid run? You should be feeling a fair bit of warmth on the shock bodies. Like right on the line of being uncomfortable to hold onto. If they are cold, you need to tighten things up.

Also, count turns. I paint mark my screws so it’s easier to count and be accurate. Keep a small notebook in the glove box and record changes/results.

My guess is if you get the valving dialed in you will be much happier. There’s a reason DMZ, dirtking etc all go for the HD’s. And even Deaver will tell you the non HD’s are too light for 90% of trucks.

 

The DMZ pack is proprietary to their kit. Deaver will not sell it, have to go through DMZ. That pack is closer to the standard h70 pack. I went through all the numbers last year when I broke a main leaf and posted all the spring rates in the ltbs thread. But the hd’s were a bit stiffer.

 

The DMZ pack is basically similar to an HD pack with the 5th removed. But it is still substantially heavier than the H70 pack. Either which way, if the truck is sitting proper. Spring rate is likely proper as well.

 

Yeah. Springs are there to hold the weight and set ride height.

And went back and found my post with the spring rates. I thought the DMZ was more in the middle of the two but it’s more in the middle when you pull a leaf out like I did.

 

An early JDFab build that turned into a Class8 Truck...

 

Yeah I’ll have to see what the valving is when they get rebuilt. I also need ADS to clock them for a little more safety clearance with the JD kit.

Most of the 10k miles they have is highway from the trips I’ve done this year. Need to do another run locally and see how hot they get.

Paint marker sounds like a good plan. I need to do more work to the front first, valving definitely isn’t right there and I might try to get a bypass up front. it seems a lot of people read my post as a complaint rather than feedback, but I’m happy with the rear as of now. After the front is dialed that’ll probably change. If there’s one thing I’ve learned from you guys it’s make one change at a time, rinse, and repeat.

 

They still do. Had them make an add a leaf for my regular duty h70 pack earlier this year. Way better now as I run a snug top shell, 37” spare setup, pro eagle jack, and a bunch of fluids/ tools in the bed pretty much full time.

 

Running 35s with a JD 2.25 front and SUA in the rear with JD inner fenders. I'd like to upgrade to 17" wheels and optimally without running spacers or glass.

I know historically when I was MT, a 4" backspace or so was perfect for 35s in the front but I needed a spacer in the rear to clear the shock relocation. Does anyone have any concept of what backspacing works front/rear with the JD kits?

 

I would just call Harry. I think most probably use a 4.75 or so back spacing and still use a spacer in the rear with stock axle. If you see JD's axle housing for the Tacoma is built to 69" stock is 65".

 

Yeah, kinda what I thought. I’ll give’em a buzz. I was hoping to drop the rear spacer but that’s a good call out on the axle.

 

It won't be of the same quality/strength as the JD housing but fusion4x4 does a wider axle that you can use the stock brake and speed sensors but it is a 9" base center section that would require a new third member. It is one option of getting around spacers but still expensive. Fusion 35 Spline HD Fabricated 9" Rear Axle for Toyota Tacoma / 4Runne - Fusion4x4

 

4.5bs wheels are perfect. You will need a 1.25” spacer in the rear to clear the shocks or a wider axle

 

Can someone in here tell me if the JD emf fits any 1inch cup?