My 2,500 mile 2023 Off Road will not move this morning

This happened to me once after washing the car. Was confused at first, then read on here, gave it a ton of gas and it finally broke free.

 

Put some WD-40 on the parking brake pads to prevent this from happening again.

 

safer to just remove the brakes altogether

 

If I wash my truck and park it on the hill I live on sometimes the rear drums will flash rust and get stuck. I’ve chirped the tires a few times and have to break it free before it will move.

 

Yep, he’s got a manual. He’ll be fine.

 

I don't know man, this sounds like a bad idea. Lubricants and friction braking typically don't mix well.

 

I was joking...

 

If the rear wheels are “burning out” that’s where the parking brake is. Seems like it’s an issue with the front … if anything

 

@doublethebass
The locker, of course! Makes sense. Will do, thanks!

 

Well that's a relief! But consider that there are some folks out there that are not very vehicle savvy and might take your comment seriously. Maybe include one of those smiley face things next time you are cracking a joke that could get someone killed.

 

If it was like my truck that i posted about hopefully you'll never have this happen again. After giving mine enough gas there was a load noise when it freed... thought i messed something up but it's drove like new ever since.

 

Next time, after the car wash, drive the truck for longer distances to heat up the brakes and dry them out. Don't park it for the day when they're still wet.

 

this happened to my 2nd gen. Got so stuck had to have it towed to dealership.

After washing I either drive it several miles or chalk wheels and don't put on the parking brake.

 

This happens all the time with semi trucks with drum brakes, just have the benefit of an extra axle and 5-7x the torque to the break free the flash rusting and it helps to mostly not park in low traction spots by the very nature of the vehicle operating conditions. But basically that is the magic way of freeing up flash rusted drums, applying lots of torque particularly in reverse first if possible (due to the design of drum brakes it takes less force to break free in reverse, same goes for iced, literally frozen, drums).

Basically everything you did in your update post is the same kind of tricks everyone else uses in combination, or by themselves, generally in order of ease of application, the easiest being applying the brakes as hard as possible/applying lockers/transfer case, etc anything that doesn't involve leaving the driver's seat.

Banging on the drums with a hammer and/or torch was last as crawling around in the mud/snow not being the funniest of tasks to free frozen, by rust or ice, brakes.

Just leave it in 1st and don't use the parking brake, alternatively you can drag your brakes by applying your parking brake slightly, as if you where applying the service brakes to gently coast to a stop, to heat them up and vaporize the moisture in the drum, and this does make sure they are ready for use on demand for full brake application when needed much sooner then letting them dry naturally, which does take time with a sealed drum design.

 

It's been corrected.

 

Quit washing your truck...problem solved.

 

I'm 56...you think I would have experienced this at least once with all the trucks I've owned and living on the east coast and mid west as as well.

But next time I'll drive it a bit to heat and dry the brakes. The car wash is just uphill from me...and being the savvy driver I am I was able to drive down the hill and make a left onto my street without ever having to use the brakes until I parked. I'm sure that's what caused this.

 

After that day I did. I figured it was better to have a dirty truck with bird crap all over it.

 

Heck, you ought to see all the bird poop that collects on mine till it rains.

 

Has happened to my 2020 sport a few times after washing it and then not driving it for a while,mine seems to break loose fairly easy if I put it in reverse and back up a bit