Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

Do not forget diode position (flow direction), very important.

 

Im sure this has been asked but I can't find it so far. What is the difference in the stalks 84140-0R020 and 84140-0R010

 

Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

 

awesome thank you

 

F….man I totally assumed I was pre-wired for stalk switch on my 23 SR, unfortunately I’m not. Any how I have new
84140-0R010 for sale if anyone is interested. Can’t post on classifieds, not enough posts for me.



SOLD-SOLD-SOLD!!!!!

 

So, as above, this one is cool and I hope to get it going on one of my older trucks. But does anyone know if maybe there is a version like my 2016 w off and DRL instead of DRL off and auto? I’m guessing it’s just paint at that point?

 

@daveeasa try 84140-0R020 that might be the one, do search on eBay for pics to verify

 

Odd question, if you have it on a 2016...why the question?

 

Because I'm not certain on the part number given many 3rd gens have the stalk I ended up buying with auto and drl off. Just hoping for confirmation on the part number. I'll check it against my vin.

 

Thank you to Nitori and others who have done the work on this thread. I found this while looking for fog light info. I have a 2020 SX with V6, so I was prewired. I wanted to confirm that everything would work, so I figured out a way to test it. I found the blue wire on pin 26 of the body ECU connection and put a T-tap on it. I rigged a test lead with a 3/8 amp inline fuse. If I had the wrong wire, it would hopefully blow the fuse. I connected the test lead to the T-tap and a good ground. Turned the lights on and found I had the fog light dash indicator. I then checked power to the blue wire in the connector behind the grill, and found I had power there. I'm attaching some pictures to show what I did.





After confirming it would work, I ordered the parts that Nitori listed. I chose the OEM LED fog light kit instead of the separate fog lights. I had also added the cargo light switch and some bed lights, which were also prewired, so I had to add wires to the cargo light switch for the illumination circuit. I used the dash mounted switch instead of pulling the steering wheel. I prefer the dash mounted switch anyway. I used solder and heat shrink to make the connections, and I took pictures of the process. If someone would like to see those pictures, I'll share them.

Two pointers I would like to share. 1) The illumination on the older model dash switch may operate at a different voltage than my 2020. I had my illumination set fairly low, and the new switch did not illuminate. Turned the brightness up, and it works. It's not as bright as the other switches, but still can be seen. 2) I was having some trouble getting the self tapping screw to start when installing the fog lights. I moved the fog light out of the way and put my hand into the opening and started the screw. Backed the screw back out, put the fog light in place, and started the screw with my fingers. Then, I finished tightening the screw with a stubby screwdriver.

Thanks again to Nitori and the others for all your work on this. The information you provided made this project possible. Hopefully my first post is not too long winded!

 

Alright, I've made an account specifically to ask a question to someone with some wrinkles on their brain. I believe I have read just about every post here, and not 100% sure if i came across anything quite definitive. I have a 2023 V6 SR XP 4x4, unfortunately it seems I am NOT pre-wired on my C11. I would prefer to have the new turn signal stalk for the closest OEM feel rather than the button switch if possible, which seems like it is with some extra supplies.
So my question is, based off a few posts here (#565), if I were to buy a terminal repair wire plugged from C11-9 wired down and plugged into M6-26, along with adding another terminal repair wire from C11-8, but wired to a ground, such as one near the drivers side fuse box where I grounded my dash-cam, then theoretically I would have just wired the C11 ports myself and the stalk would work? I'm good with my hands, but the electrical areas are where I'm smooth brained.
Also, based off post #577, if i wanted to save some $$ and buy some wire and connecting plugs myself, i'm having a hard time finding an accurate gauge size for the dimensions. The terminal repair wire shows the be 1.6mm, or about 14g? This is less important to me as I'll probably just buy the corresponding parts from ebay or other sources (assuming the paragraph above proves to be possible).

 

Wire is 20~18 awg

 

Did the upgrade a few weeks ago. Want to thank everyone who's contributed to this very useful thread.

 

Nice, I assumed based off looks it was ~20g as 14g wouldn’t make sense. But, again, not much knowledge of electrical components.

So, sounds like the DIY wiring from C11 to M6 should work. I’ll give it a try and give an update in a few days. If it doesn’t, I’ll have some parts to sell!

 

Are you doing the terminals and wire add only?

 

If that’s all that is required, yes. If more is required, I’m willing to wire up anything I need to get a new stalk with fog switch capabilities to work on a non pre-wired SR.
But if those two wires are the only difference, I don’t see why it wouldn’t. If I need a new housing for the stalk clip, I’ll buy one. It’ll take some tinkering and seeing with my own eyes to find out.

 

Two of these:

Don't forget to release up ( NOT remove) the locking bar on the connector. Slot 8 & 9.

And two choices for the terminal that insert in slot 26 at M6

 

YOU could PM @kmorgan3 for this harness (C11T), you might get lucky.

 

After many weeks of ordering parts and it not delivered, or ordering pieces and being unhappy with them, I have finally completed this project. I took a few photos to help those who may also want to tackle this project as well!

A little background details, I have a 2023 SR 4x4, though I was NOT pre-wired for fog lights and I wanted as close to OEM as possible and don't really want an extra switch on my dash. With direction of both Nitori and Caribe Makaira, I have wired a turn signal stalk myself and it works perfectly!

The Engine bay harness installation was easy but I will not be posting it's installation here as it's properly covered in the original post. I will say, I decided to remove the front grill instead of the more popular way of going through the wheel well for the fogs, much easier for me. It took me and embarrassingly long time to find the location of the last harness anchor, but alas it can be found on the inside, literally next to the fog light holes...

Now lets get to the wiring! As described in post #897, the requirements are two terminals wires 82998-24290, and one terminal wire 82998-47010. I also bought some

$7 BNTECHGO 22 Gauge Silicone Wire red and Black Each 10ft Flexible 22 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire

22g extension wire which came with 10ft of Red and Black flexible wiring. From there, I simply spliced them together for extra length. As the diagram shows in the post #898, it's truly as simple as connecting them to the corresponding terminals.

Also, for those who have not read many posts, C11 is the housing connector beneath the turn signal stalk which has the "blue" and "white" wire for the pre-wired folk, and is where the 82998-24290 terminal wires go. M6 is the housing connector found underneath the dash where the singular 82998-47010 terminal wire will connect.

For the connection from C11-9 to M6-26 I spliced on of the 82998-24290 terminal wires to the 82998-47010 terminal wire. Now, funny enough the 82998-24290 terminal wire (shown in Green) was ~18g and the 82998-47010 terminal wire was ~24g. I used part of the extension wire I bought to splice them together to ensure adequate length.


As for the "White Wire" that pre-wired Tacomas have, which connects into C11-8 and uses the same terminal wire 82998-24290, hence where the second of the two you bought comes in. Here I spliced the black extension wire I bought from Amazon to it, and the other end had a simple O right crimp terminal so I can ground it. I forgot to take a photo of this, but this wire had considerable more length to it to reach the appropriate Ground.

First, connecting these two into C11 under the dash was simple. As stated before, its crucial to pry UP on the housing locking bar points with a small screw driver just enough for it to pop a little bit, but NOT removed. Once its popped slightly, the two terminal wires should slide right into their respective spots. There is only one way the terminal is able to slide in, and once it does it LOCKS into place with a slight click. So please make sure you have the correct port first! As you can see, since both terminal wires are the same color of green, I at least used splicing covers of Blue and White to remind me of which is which .



From here, the C11-9 wire shown in the first photo goes all the way to M6-26. Moe2o4 has a great thread on how to get under the dash to the C11 port. Nitori in the original first post of this thread has an excellent demonstration of how to undo the M6 housing layering, and it really is simple and requires almost no force at all. In the end, my wire plugged right on in perfectly. Then, for stability I used electrical tape to further secure it onto the wire bundle.


Now as far as the Second wire placed in the "white" terminal wire port. I fed that alllll the way down the side of the drivers foot. Post #153 shows the diagram that the "white" wire from C11-8 goes up and around a few places but ultimately ends in the IA ground area found behind the lower drivers left footing panel right next to the fuse box. It a little hard to see, but my ground terminal is behind the bolt. So, i just wired directly from C11-9 all the way down to the ground bolt.

After these wires are placed and grounded, you're almost set! Just to place the turn signal stock switch! Now, i'm fortunate enough to have an Auto Light sensor installed in my SR so I opted to buy the 84140-0R010 stalk as its compatible!!

Taking the steering wheel off wasn't as difficult as I expected it to be. This video has great instruction on removing the steering wheel and should be followed. Though, this video shows how to remove the clock spring on the 2nd gen, but is almost the exact same as 3rd gen. Just don't forget to undo the plugs at the bottom. The 3rd gen yellow plug can be a bit tricky but just press the middle part in and slide it down, then pull the plug down and off.


Further, I do have photos of the 3 clips holding the clock spring in place. Theres one on the Left side, the Top, and the Right side.




Once the clock spring is removed, the last thing to do is the stalks! This is by far quite easy to remove. There is two clips, one on the top and one on the bottom. It should be noted that there are triangle-like moulds in the circular part surrounding the steering column-bolt-thing. This took me by surprise as after the two clips are pulled back, you have to give it a little yank to come off. Please, don't forget to unclip all housing connectors prior to this! The two clips are circled, and the triangle-mound things have some arrows to show you. Though, if you have a new stalk, i'm sure you can just look at it and see what i mean.


After that, just one last clip on the old stalk to take off your windshield wiper switch and everything is good to slide into place into the new stalk! Very easy to place everything back to where it belongs! Just do exactly what you did to take it off, but in reverse!


Now everything works perfectly, and very OEM, especially for a non pre-wired SR! Please follow Nitori's original post and get the relay placed and make sure you have a 15A fuse placed as well!
Lastly, I did have a slight scare as my fogs initially didn't work, but my dash fog indicator did turn on. Further checked the relay under the hood, and it did click as I flipped the switch for the fogs. Therefore, I had to check my lights themself. I have the Diode Dynamic SS3 Sport and I actually had the initial plugs into the Harness flipped, and just unplugged and flipped them back around to get the polarity correct and they turned right on!



I know these photos and this post may not be necessary, but for those like me who wanted OEM and a stalk for fogs rather than a dash switch, this just goes to show that you CAN wire them yourself if you are not initially pre-wired for fogs! Thanks to everyone who posted. I hope I covered most everything along with links all in one post.

 

Nicely done Elephant !