1998 suspension rebuild. 4x4 Off-Road access cab, 6ft bed, 3.4L manual

Those are the wrong ones. They don’t technically sell UCA bushings for a first gen 3.4L Tacoma. You need to buy 4Runner bushings. Part #48632-35080. I originally bought the 35070 and they didn’t fit. Swapped in the 35080 and they’ve done great the past 10,000 miles.

See this thread…
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/upper-control-arm-bushings-for-2002-trd-tacoma.787470/

and my build thread…
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2002-tacoma-rust-belt-restoration.769596/page-3

 

Odd, all the Toyota sites say it's a fit by my VIN. Spreadsheet updated, thanks!

 

Yeah it was quite the rabbit hole.

 

Thanks! I was going to poat last night, that it is incredibly confusing looking at the Mcgeorge Toyota site, or Amazon, and trying to figure out which parts are correct. They list like 2 or 3 part numers for every piece, all on same page, and all say 98 tacoma 4wheel. Then I watch a YouTube vid of someone installing something, and they give a different part number...

 

Given the hassle of removing and replacing the bushings I would suggest just forking up the cash for a fresh set of OEM Upper control arms.

 

@ztwatson I read your build thread, and your bushings saga. Good stuff! And I just want to say, after reading allll the pain in your build thread, you are the hardest working dude, as well as the craziest!! What were you thinking buying that tacoma lol!

 

As @rocknbil said, the price mounts fast!! Question below, complete 5100s w coils, or 4600s? (Also partly posting this so I can reference later, when I forget measurements and shock specs!)

I started looking at all my list of parts, and comparing prices at Napa and Oreillys and Amazon for a few that I thought would be ok not OEM. What I found was that, unless I go Moog or Detroit axle, the parts from Ourisman, old McGeorge, are less. Or not much more.

I'm still looking at the steering rack to see if I have to replace it. If I do, I will go oem. And won't have to buy inner tie rods or boots. I tore off the rotted steering boots today, a lot of that might be due to car sitting outside for 2 years in AZ and only moving 15 miles. The tie rods and rack looked pretty clean, no grit, and pretty much just a smear of grease there.

Truck is riding pretty stock without droop, here is front at 21.5" :

And here is back at 22.0". This is with 31x10.5 R15 tires, which is what it came with and I've always kept on.



So I'm feeling like the rear springs and front coils aren't beat up. Will keep rear springs and just AAL or helper spring later if needed for cargo.

Talked to SuspensionSurplus and the Suspension Lifts rocknbil place today. Since this truck will be most all trail or dry river beds for hunting and camping now, I expect to have 500 to 900 lbs of it's 1150 payload used often. So was thinking rear suspension spring and airbags might end up lifting rear 1 to 2". Which made me think maybe I should go with Bilstein 5100s, 1-1.5" setting in back. And adjusted to 0" up front. That way I can adjust it up later if rear stiffening ends up lifting it?

Problem is I'm not actually needing it yet. Just don't want to have to redo them later, or upgauge when 4600s would have been fine. I'm 0% about looks or stance really.

 

What tires are those? I run Pathfinder AllTerrain? Only version I have ever seen.

 

Hey man we can’t all live in Arizona.

 

Just to clarify the 5100s won't lift the rear at all. Only changes to the leaf springs will do that. I might suggest throwing some weight back there now (an amount comparable to what you might plan to load up for hunting), and see how it handles that weight. If it sags more than you'd like then you can decide if airbags, helper springs, Add-a-leafs, or new leaf pack altogether is your best course of action.

 

Sorry, just saw this! The front are Pathfinder Allterrain, 31x10.5 R15.
The rear two are BFG KO2, "baja champion" heh. Don't remember when I got off cycle there... think just last time, I needed 2 rear due to not rotating probably. They didn't have defenders at Discount Tire anymore, so got the KO2s.

 

Thanks. Looked like something other than AllTerains.

 

I am trying to figure out some parts to order, but just can't decipher the parts diagrams, and which one applies to my truck, and thus which part number to order. Any help appreciated.

I am looking at the McGeorge or now, Ourisman, parts page. Here is the link.
https://parts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/v-1998-toyota-tacoma--sr5--3-4l-v6-gas

I think I have UCA, LCA, L and R ball joints, upper ball joints, L and R outer tie rods, sway bar links. Also mostly bushings, may get them instead of uca, lca.

What I need help with is the front wheel bearing replacement parts. There are 2 different diagrams, with different part numbers. Here is one:


What parts do I need for bearing replacement? Inner seal, outer seal, bearings, and snap rings? I've watxhed several videos, but the parts diagrams dont look the same...

I think it may be manual vs automatic locking hubs, manual vs auto transmission, 15in vs 16in wheels, etc.

I have a 1998 Tacoma SR5 TRD Off Road package. 3.4L V6 engine, manual transmission, 15" wheels--not 16! And 6 lugs.

Love if someone could verify part numbers.

 

That diagram is for automatically locking hubs. If that's the case you'll want the inner seal, outer seal, bearing, snap ring and I'd do a new hub as the bearing race will be stuck to the hub and they can be a pain to get off.

 

Thx much! I haven't ever dealt with manual locking hubs, I can shift into 4wd hi and low from inside the cab without messing with wheels. I assume that means automatic locking hubs.

I hope I can do this without new hubs, this suspension redo cost is climbing like crazy.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with wheel bearings unless they are bad. Don't buy whole arms just buy the bushings but I would get some inner tie rods while you're there. New stainless steel brake lines wouldn't hurt either.

 

You're a mindreader... I just finished getting all parts and cost for new front bearings: $371. I pulled the caps, zero grease leakage, no bad sounds driving, both hubs spin smoothly. I was just coming on here to post asking if it would be foolish for me to not change them, 180k miles, while I have it all apart. Or can front bearings go well longer. Thanks!

I ALSO just finishes deciphering new front brake hoses to the calipers, using the part number lookup with my frame number at
https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tacoma/vzn170l/3236/chassis/4303/43511G/

I found a L and R brake hose, $70 each... are you saying there are now stainless steel brake lines I can use instead that are better? Thanks, and for any help on what those part # would be!!

 

Speaking from experience, energy suspension poly bushings even when greased on install, will squeek like crazy. There really is no need for them with a bone stock truck.

 

The effort described to install an AAL is not as described. Also, it looks like you found out for yourself that 5100's are not only for a couple inch lift, they can be set to stock height. The difference between them and the 4600's would be finish and about $20. I prefer the zinc finish of the 5100's but that in itself may not be worth the upcharge for you.

 

The stainless steel lines will expand less making your brakes more effective. $160 for all 3 with new hardware. Before you buy you might look at upgrading to tundra brakes. If you swap you'll need different lines.