New England B.S. Thread

I was so confused at first and then he spelled out the acronym and I got a good laugh.

 

Rust is the worst. Full stop.

I spent $Texas to have the rust repaired on my 1st car and I won't do it again. It also ruins Subarus which means it's impossible to find a fun project car. When I look it's not like "what's in the best mechanical shape" it's "is it rusted out? No, okay, how beat up are the mechanicals?"

 

Yea I had to repair a whole wheel well on my first car and then rust was taking the frame on my 88 pickup. Traded in my first tundra due to rust and scaling. It's ridiculous

 

This was the better side. Cost me $3,000 in 2005 including the metal. Gave me an excuse to swap the trunk lid and tail lamps to the newer design as well as add the OEM wing. I don’t think I’d do it again.

I looked at a Bugeye wagon last month which had that same work done including the strut towers themselves. I would have bought it but the owner skimped on the details when he had the word done. The rear bumper had a huge sideswipe scrape that wasn’t repaired and the top hatch wing had clear coat failure which wasn’t repaired despite the tailgate being sprayed. The rear doors were blended but the door ding damage wasn’t touched, nor was the peeling paint in the door handle cups. It was bizarre. Spend $6,500 (allegedly) on repairs but didn’t do the details.

I would have bought the car, too.

 

Yea makes you wonder what else was half assed or even done

 

It was actually DINKWAD not DICWAD....lol It is actually a real-estate acronym:
DINK - Dual Income No Kids
DINKWAD - Dual Income No Kids With A Dog
DINKWAC - Dual Income No Kids With A Cat

 

Funny either way hahahaha. Pretty sure you left the N out of it

 

noooooo......I did say DINK but I am still getting my voice back lol.....

 

This was in-progress. The rusty factory quarters were cut off, the inner wheelhouses were rebuilt and replacement OEM quarters cut out of a rust free car from AZ were welded in.

The end result was killer.

 

Damn that did come out good. Mine was more of a clean up, fiberglass, and bondo back together. Didn't come out too bad for a 16 year old who had never done anything like that before

 

Mine was a shop that did it. Stupid me spent all the cash I had in the bank to fix it. The quarters were $500, the trunk lid was $35, the tail lamps $180, the spoiler was $120 and the labor was like $2,500.

Sometimes I miss that car. It was s-l-o-w but with sticky summer tires and a decent set of Neuspeed springs and AGX shocks it could hold its own in the twisties.

 

Nice that's always fun. I put KYB struts and eibach springs on my tC I had before my Tacoma. That was pretty fun in the twisties.

 

Sorry to keep bringing up bumpers but its all my minds at right now

https://bruteforcefab.com/16+-tacoma-rears

@tacobell007 @TacoTuesday603 you guys mind taking a look at this one too lol, I think it also lacks that exterior gusset.

Things I kind of end up looking at is like can I take the tire carrier off if I want to have something else, etc so I probably miss durability concerns

 

His is interesting as it looks like it sits on top of the bumper, which I would say probably not the strongest, Jack would know a little more on that.

That latch system looks like it will allow for movement, also looks like it might get noisy once stuff wears in. That main bottom bar isn't too far about the bumper

 

I’m making some assumptions here because they also do not take the right pictures.

so the ath bumper and this one deal with the swingout in two different ways. Ath has a grade 8 bolt in double shear where bruteforce has a spindle setup in single shear I would call it. I sure hope to god that the spindle isn’t only welded to the top surface of the bumper and it passes through the top skin and into the meat of the bumper.

I personally if I was comparing the two setups would say the spindle in single shear is stronger if the other end of the spindle passes through the bumper to support. The best thing to see would be someone using a spindle in double shear, idek if any companies does this.

it’s kind of fun to go through these and see what I would do and wouldn’t. If I was paying this much for a bumper ~2k it better deliver my first born child.

 

@Merling The new SSO owner posted a it more info and some pictures in the SSO management thread, in case you didn’t get his email. There is an online form you need to fill out.

 

@Merling so it doesnt really matter if the gusset is internal or external heres an example. Below are pictures of the recovery points that I added to Johns WoooFab bumper(that doesnt come with any). I really like the way it came out. Hopefully we have some field results from this weekend.

So one option would just be to weld the clevis mount onto the bumper to the 3/16. This has two problems, you only have about 5" of weld holding it on and its only being held onto the skin of 3/16 plate.

Instead what I did was weld the clevis mount to a 1/4"*3" shank and make that shank pass through the bumper straight to the frame mounting plate, also welded to the 1/4" winch plate. Here you have something like 18"-24" of weld to distribute the load of a recovery over.

For a swingout the failure mode isnt as dangerous as a piece of recovery equipment breaking so I may be taking this too far. This support is light and cheap so I would put it in even if it was overkill (for a swingout I'm talking)

 

Im just messing with you Jared, it was good to see you and glad you’re starting to feel better!

 

Man.. idk. I think I’m gonna try a chargeback and see how things settle. If in the spring they’re pumping out orders, I’ll figure it out then if i can get my money back. Sucks because i got the bumper for like a grand shipped to the house with cash back offers through credit cards etc

 

I paid thru PayPal. I think I have until closer to Dec. to decide. My concern is that I try a chargeback, it doesn’t go thru, and I get nothing.