Did I damage something internally when replacing my ABS sensor?

Here is what I came up with for the voltages on the transfer case actuator and the ADD actuator circuits.

 

It would have been better to test it at the ECU and not the connector.
Now we need you to test it at the ECU……..let’s hope the reading are “different”.

 

Ok, I unplugged the ADD connector at the front differential and checked the voltage at the ECU.
DL1: 12V
DL2: 11.9V
ADD: 2.4mV

 

Looks like your ADD wire is shorted to ground.
We need to address this first.

 

Unplug the EC1 connector and see if the ADD wire goes to 12v at the ECU.
It will be a 6 wire connector.

 

I'm trying to find that connector and I cannot locate it. I'll keep trying.
Also, when I do this should I have the ADD connector disconnected from the actuator?

 

It doesn’t matter. When you disconnect that connector, it is disconnecting the ADD.
We are isolating the short. If you get a 12v reading after disconnecting that plug, the short is down stream of that plug.

 

Is this it right above my right CV?

 

That looks like it

 

Ok, I'm going to have to hang it up for today. It's getting dark and I have to attend a local search and rescue event. I'll pick it back up tomorrow. This connector sure is in an extremely inconvenient spot.

 

Yeah, I know.
I hope it goes to 12v.

You have 2 issues.
You aren’t getting power to the ADD and you have no 12v get to the ADD wire at the ECM.
I’m hoping when you unplug that connector, all 3 (DL1, DL2, and ADD) go to 12v at the ECU.

 

Catch you tomorrow bud.
We’ll continue then.

 

Seriously thank you for all your help so far. I’ll get back at it as soon as it warms up tomorrow. I live at 2 miles above sea level so it’s pretty much winter here already.

 

So it looks like all the limit switch circuits went to 12v with the actuators unplugged (I believe you got your pin numbers reversed based on the voltages), are you sure your probing the correct pins at the 4wd ECU?

 

You are correct.
I went off the correct pin #s.
Which are 3,5,6

If OP had the pins “backwards” you are correct.
The voltages are right.

 

OP we figured out what might have happened.
If you followed the pinout in the link. The pinout was for the actuator itself.
Where as you were testing the harness side.

Here is the harness side pinout. You don’t need to check it again.
As we know all we need to know from the first test.

 

OP, forget all about the EC1 plug. No need to unplug it.
Your readings were right. (But backward).

At this point, we need to know exactly what pins on the 4WD ECU you are test.
Below are pictures to help for a reference.
Ignore the wires and colors in the 2nd picture. It’s just there for reference.
Study the plugs and pin outs.


F12 is TOP plug
F13 is BOTTOM plug

 

This is the exact diagram I've been using. Let me get myself together and I'll go retest everything just to make sure.

 

Ok guys, here are the new readouts. Not a whole lot changed. I started my truck to run it for a few minutes to charge my battery up before taking measurements.

 

I just spoke to a friend of a friend who is a reliable auto tech. A few years ago, I had a garage install a body lift for me. With these voltages all over the place, it makes me think that a cable harness got crushed somewhere and over time just wore down until things started getting crossed. Any suggestion on where I should start looking for something like that?