Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

There is a reason why this thread has 40 pages. The Secondary Air Injection is failure prone and you can spend all day reading horror stories of owners trying to address. I wanted to pass along some recent threads we posted about the SAIS. If you have any questions do not hesitate to reach out, DM or give us a call.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.780847/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.780848/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.780849/

 

Would your bypass kit get rid of the P0418 code?

 

Yes, the Gen2 kit is able to take care of the P0418 code without any additional addons.
Our Gen1 kits require a kit addon called a Pump Proxy pack addon and the air injection control driver must still be good.
The Gen2 kits actually replace the air injection control drivers so it also takes care of that root cause if the driver is bad too.
Please give us a call toll Free and we would be glad to do a consultation to answer all your questions and make sure we get you what you need.
Paul

 

I had p2440. Turns out I had sponge stuck in the valve that kept the valve from shutting. I guess.

I removed the sponge pieces from both the top of the valve and the bottom.

does anyone know if the studs that screw into the engine are reverse threaded? I couldn’t get them out. Any tips on how to get those out would be greatly appreciated.

Since I couldn’t get the studs out, I just took the 4 t25 torx screws out and took the top of the valve assembly out. Save me some time BUT if I eventually need to replace that valve, I’m gonna have to figure out how to remove those studs.

ALSO, I have the 2.7 4 cylinder AND it’s a 2011

 

Will the GEN2 kit take care of all this, think I might have to give in. I’ll clear the codes, drive and in the middle of the drive I can feel a slight hesitation and won’t accelerate past 40-50km. After a 30secs, it goes back to normal.

 

@TegoTaco As long as you do not have any damage to the Pressure Sensors the Gen 2 Bypass Kit should be all you need. That said, our Bypass Kit are engineered to work with Factory/OEM equipment and seen a lot of issues with aftermarket parts because they are cheap for a reason. So if you had damage to the Pressure Sensor or had aftermarket parts installed there may be a need for our Pressure Sensor addon in addition to the bypass kit. However, you can always install the Gen 2 Bypass Kit first and get the addons in the future if needed. Please let us know if you have any additional questions.

 

How would I know if I have damaged the pressure sensor?

Still have all my OEM equipment btw.

 

@TegoTaco Determining if you have a damaged pressures sensor is hit or miss. We can read the the values of the Pressure Sensor if you have a scan tool that can read Live Stream Data. However, it seems like your issue is currently intermittent. That said, even if you did read the values they could read correctly then present differently under different circumstances. I will say that "Valve Stuck Open" codes can lead to damaged pressure sensors. This is because when the valve is open exhaust can leak into the Air Switching Valves and damage the pressure sensor. Most customer will install the Gen 2 Bypass Kit and if needed follow up the order with pressure sensor addons if needed.

 

Obviously I should install the block plates asap correct? I do have a scan tool that can read live data.

 

@TegoTaco Yes, install the Block off Plate they will physically shut the Air Switching Valves and prevent exhaust from getting in there. On your 4.0L Installation of the Block off Plates is pretty straight forward and right through the hood. If you continue to see "Valve Stuck Open" error codes with the Bypass Kit and Block off Plated installed then good indication the Pressure Sensor has been damaged. You may see a direct pressure sensos code which would be in the P2430's

 

I have a 2015 Tacoma that's throwing codes P2441 and P2443 - Air System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1/2. I can tell that both valves are NOT stuck closed, because I can feel at the pump inlet that air is being pulled into the system. Long-story-short... the valves, the pump, and the ECU/PCM have been replaced with OEM parts, to no avail. Still throwing the same codes. I know I can do the bypass solution, but I'd like to just get the SAIS fixed. Any suggestions?

 

Have you verified the ports in the manifolds aren't plugged with carbon?

 

Yes,
- I brought the vehicle to an exhust/muffler shop and they checked the catalytic converter inlet pressures and found it to be OK.
- I took the vehicle to another shop and they pulled the SAIS supply pipes off at each exhaust manifold bank, and they found no blockage there.

Greg

 

Ok is your AIR PMP HTR fuse (10A) and AI VALVE Relay in place and good?

 

I assume these were checked when the ECU/PCM was replaced, but I'm not sure. I'll check tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions!
Greg

 

Sounds more like they just threw parts at it instead of actually testing anything unfortunately.
I'm just following the data and logic, pretty low chance for both valves to be stuck closed at the same time so logic says look for what they have in common. I would expect it to throw circuit codes for the valves if that fuse or relay was missing but it's worth checking since it seems everything else has been replaced.

Do you have a bi-directional scan tool you can use to command the valves?

 

I'll check with the dealership (not Toyota) where I bought the truck. They did the valve & ECU install, and I'll find out if they checked the fuse and relay. I see what you're saying about these being suspicious since its throwing codes for valves stuck closed on both banks. I just have a BlueDriver Scanner. I'm not aware of any ability to control any ECU functionality. With that in mind maybe I should bring it to the Toyota dealership. They have been difficult to work with so far. They won't talk to me about the history, and just want me to bring it in for the $150 diagnostics. I can check the fuse, but I have not clue how to diagnose issues with the AI relay. I'd guess that the Toyota dealership could diagnose that.

Thanks!
Greg

 

@grgrynlds after reading over the thread I would be hesitant about pulling the trigger on the SAIS Bypass until you get some more details. I also agree with @Dm93 that it would be very coincidental for both of the valves to fails closed at the same time, If you have already ensured there is not any blockage I think these codes are masking another issue. We have seen when the Pressure Sensor Inside the valves are damaged or aftermarket could cause these types of codes. Verify that the Air Switching Valves are "Denso" Toyota parts, you should be able to see this stamped on the top side of the valve. Aftermarket parts are trash and will cause nothing but trouble. That said, if whoever you bought the vehicle from had to replace the valves and ECU then that raises red flags for me. Yes, next step would be to double check your fuses. Please keep the thread posted I am interested in what is causing your issue.

 

OK, I checked the AIR PMP HTR fuse (10A) and AI VALVE Relay. The fuse is OK and the relay looks OK. I checked with the shop that replaced the ECU and they did indeed check the relay function with their scanner before moving forward with the ECU replacement.

One other issue that comes to mind... When we first got the vehicle, we were in WI and brought the truck to a Toyota dealership in MKE. They found a pin in one of the SAIS connectors that was out of place, and they fixed that. I suppose just pushing the pin back in place, not replacing the wiring connector. So, now I'm wondering if maybe that respective wire is still not making connection. I'll check back with that shop and see if they remember which connector.

 

@grgrynlds Factory wiring harness is always a possibility, especially after they swapped out the ECM. I would Ohm out the factory harness that runs to each Air Switching Valve. Send a DM with you email address I can send a troubleshooting guide. Also were you able to verify the Air Switching Valves were "Denso" Toyota factory components?