OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

The part melting on people is the in-line fuse wire, which regardless of your compressor’s location will be connected near the battery, which 99.9% of the time is under the hood. ARB using cheap over-molded fuse holders in the kit wiring seems to be the root cause more than anything else I’m seeing.

 

Viair in the truck bed. I use it mainly to run my HP scuba booster to refill O2 rebreather cylinders. I've run it for 20-30 min stretches and nothing has ever melted....

 

nice!

 

There’s a few folks in other forums with the problem, as mentioned already it appears to be a fuse holder QC problem. I’d imagine ARB would make it right with a new one possibly.

I ordered the extended wiring kit for mine and have it mounted under my bed on a ledge that’s not used on my 08 Duramax.

 

I have all DOT lines ran on my Duramax that go to two separate chucks one at the bed and one in the front fender. Only steel braided portion is like 18” directly off the compressor. I’ve had 0 issues for 3 years now. Just make sure to check all your PTC fittings as the Amazon ones I ordered a couple had messed up threads.

 

Thanks, that's exactly what I'm doing. 18" braided into a tee and then nylon push to fit from there, to 3 quick connects.

 

Whats going on OBA gurus. Recently got into a debate with another knowledgable individual about air tanks. I'm under the impression air tanks will speed up the air up process while he says no way, it's going to slow it down.

While I understand the compressor will have to fill the tank, so that will take longer, it can be filled at any point before or during rides so its already full at the end of the ride to air up. This all started in the mountains where it takes forever to fill up 37s at elevation.

The plan is to install a 4 gallon tank in the bed rated at 200psi with a release valve at 175, where in reality the ARB compressor will cut off at around 150psi. I already have the pluming in place so I'm just collecting block offs, valves, a drain, the tank and a gauge. I imagine the tank as a larger manifold storing a greater amount of air. I'm I crazy for thinking its that easy? The formulas for air volume in gallons get a little confusing with all the data to input in regard to atmospheric conditions, location & elevation. The issue with the calcs is adding 26psi on a 33 is less air volume than 26psi on a 37. I'm aiming for 1 gallon of air per tire to speed things up.

I feel like it's more of a learning curve with the tank, as long as its always full when you need it, it should speed things up.

Everything is ordered, I plan to test it all out and video the differences. I thought through all the pros and cons of a Power Tank. They look real cool but not for me. On this last trip I would have had to fill the 10lbs Power Tank 4 times with all the air ups we did. So finding a shop that can fill them in remote locations is not something I don't want to prepare for. And then theres the cost, a power tank is almost 5 times as much as me adding a 4 gallon tank. Yes, you can make one yourself sourcing tanks and parts, but still need to find place to fill it.


I'm curious what all of you think. Is this going to work? Will the tank speed things up? Thanks

 

I saw a video by some Australian's testing 3 arb compressor setups.
I'll look for the video.
Basically the setup with a small air tank and dual arb compressor took longer than the dual arb compressor and no tank.

Also saw a test using 1/4" and 3/8" line.
1/4" was faster

I'm running the dual arb with their manifold for my locker and I use 1/4" line.
I fill my 37s from 18psi to 37psi in 3min 45sec
My fitting is on rear bumper, driverside.
Compressor is in driverside rear cubby.
I'm on lower left in this pic.

 

Found it
ULTIMATE 3-WAY ARB Air Compressor Comparison {YOU WON'T BELIEVE THE RESULTS}
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a4asFENh3Q

 

Tanks are better for when you need to maintain a constant pressure or want a pressurized volume of air already available but you’re limited by tank size. Simply airing up alone doesn’t really fit this and only adds weight and complexity for not as much benefit, though the bigger the tank and higher the pressure the more it can do but adds weight and takes up space. Air horns, air bags, or pressurized water supply are a few examples where it’s handy to have it but there are others. One way around having the tank refilling at the same time as tires is install valves to control what supplies your fill line(s), the tank or the compressor, then you get both the storage benefit without the drain on the system when you don’t want that. It adds complexity though. A little thought and planning can save you the difference between what you thought you wanted and actually need.

 

Appreciate it fellas. Thank you.

 

I don't know why I didn't think to ask this *before* I installed my ARB Twin and using it for 9+ months: Do I actually need the manifold if I'm not running air lockers?

 

You don't need it.
I suggest you have a ss air line coming off the compressor cause of the heat.

 

Exactly what I wanted to know. Removing it will gives me a little more clearance for a second battery, and I'm pretty sure that the SS line I already have running from the compressor to the manifold is long enough that I can get it to where I want to install a chuck on the front bumper.

 

Finally got around to unfucking and finishing up my OBA setup and I'm pretty pleased. If anyone is considering the Rago Wifey system.. just.. don't. The parts are cheaper to get individually and you'll get better quality ones. The hose they use isn't rated for heat and saved them like $4 on a $300 kit or whatever. I grabbed some DoT rated airline tubing and some DoT rated Viair push connect fittings and wrapped it up with some

$22 Design Engineering Fire Sleeve and Tape Kit 3/8" I.D. x 3ft – High-Temperature Heat Protection for Wires, Hoses, Cables, Tubing, and Electrical Components

Design Engineer fire sleeves.

ARB quick connects to all four wheels. APEX rapid deflate valves in all four wheels. The tail hoses use the Apex rapid inflation valve on one side with a Viair quick connect on the other. Pop'em in, crack a beer.

 

Why do my fuses keep blowing all of a sudden?

 

Is this happening on an ARB twin comp?

 

Yes.

 

Does anyone have a source where I can get fuse holders for the ARB Twin Compressor? The only ones I can find are for the smaller 3/4-inch fuses. The fuse holders for the ARB are much bigger. TIA.

 

Is it new or still under warranty? Or has it seen extensive use?

I'm on my 3rd ARB twin. The first 2 started blowing fuses like you describe.

My first one did it almost from new. Fortunately, I lived only few miles from the ARB service center. After putting it on their test bench they gave me a warranty replacement. My 2nd one was used hard for years, at least 7 or 8 wheeling seasons, before it started blowing the fuses.

According the ARB tech I spoke with, it is excessive piston drag that creates the problem. More heat (from piston drag) aggravates the problem.