All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

lol. i think you quoted the wrong thing. i think you meant to quote the i9 post? haha.

 

They do! I got the email drop earlier, there’s a whole line up

 

I mean, it's no yeti, but ya it does.

 

I just moved my Roval Controls with 2.6 Rekons over to my Stumpjumper, and I also converted it back to 29" in the process. Curious to see what you think of the wheels/tires. I loved it on my hardtail and am leaving them on until I feel motivated enough to swap over Assguy/Dissector.

 

Heard good things but the bleeding issues scare me away. My local shop wont sell them due to the amount of shop time they spend bleeding them.

 

Big fan of the TRP DHR Evo. I'm running them on my Spire with 223MM front rotors and 203MM rear. They have been super consistent, no brake fade, and plenty of power for me at 230 pounds. I've read about quality issues after a while but haven't noticed it, although it's been less than a season with it as my secondary bike.

 

The Royal Control SLs only have the 36T ratchet but when I first rode it, I didn't really notice a difference (i have a couple of wheelsets with Hydra and the 54T ratchets) so I may not go to 54T. The Rekon Race is great as a rear tire for this type of bike. However, they are less than optimal as a front tire when things are super dry. I may end up switching it to a regular Rekon.

 

Ooopsie

 

36t is good enough for me if there isnt a bunch of tech. I need to get a ride in on the Rekon equipped SJ.

 

Toss up for me between XT and XTR. I rode the TRPS and they felt like SRAM brakes to me. They had a bunch of power but a fair amount of lever travel before they really did anything, and they were squishy and not firm at the bite point like Shimano. I've read the pros will run Shimano brake lines to fix this.

One recent change for me is that I have been running the Galfer pro pads. They have the modulation of an organic pad but with tons more grab when you want it. Previous I ran the D02s pads and I was always mucking with them. They'd get glazed over and I'd have to sand them, or they would chatter on the ice tech rotors and howl. I think the ice tech rotors were part of the problem. I have the D02s with Galfer rotors on my trail bike and they're flawless. I'm pretty much done with Shimano rotors and pads but I love the brakes otherwise.

 

I had some Fox knee pads for four years with no issues and only just retired them because they were gross. I got some iXS flow knee pads that are great!!! Size up though.

I think @ginseng27 suggested it, but Evil Offering. I compared the two back to back when I was shopping. The geo doesn't quite do the comparison justice but I found the Evil to be much more playful and competent descending while giving up some climbing efficiency.

I ran a 4 tray 1up on the back of my truck for many years, over many miles of highway and dirt roads, and never once needed to re-tighten the add-on bolts. Occasionally the main tension bolt/expander ball thing would loosen but only a little bit. I've also found that some of the other tray bolts have needed tightening, but never those add-on bolts.

 

Haven't used golds. Only reds (front) and the ebike (rear) pads. Been perfect. I did pair them with new rotors though. The Galfer pads are great also, nothing but reliable. I used alcohol on the rotors, sanded a tiny bit, and bed them in on a long ass hill. Been great also.

Ughhh.. I saw them. And so much of my bike is bronze too. Just can't justify spending 1K on hubs (hubs+rebuilds) when the hydras I have now are the same just a different color.
I actually really wish they'd do those colors for the 1-1 hubs. After riding those for a bit I think I actually prefer them to the Hydra. The engagement is spot-on and they are way cheaper. Sure the ultra-fast hydra is nice, but pretty near unnecessary for most riding. Probably have less pedal kick-back also (though I didn't notice it).
Honestly think I'll go back to Hope for the next set. Now that their engagement is better, I'd love to get back to them. They are bomb-proof, spares parts are easy to source, look fantastic, sound fantastic.

That's silly. It's stupid easy, actually easier than most once you have the method. Plus they are easier to do a quick top-bleed if you get some bubbles and don't want to do a full bleed.

 

So much in the same boat regarding hydras vs 1/1. I do need to order a few more 1/1 specific tools to rebuild those. Already set for hydra servicing.

I’ve got a bronze hub/spoke wheelset sitting in my cart. So far I’ve been behaving rationally and have resisted the unnecessary impulse purchase. Hopefully I’ll maintain…

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but one of the problems I have with i9 hubs is the servicing of them. I had an incident a while ago where my rear axle came loose on the trail which allowed the driver to separate from the freehub body in my i9 torch. 5 out of the 6 pawls came out of their housing and I limped my way back to the truck. I purchased a new torch driver with all new pawls to install, but had concerns that the ratchet ring inside the freehub body may have been damaged with the materials floating around in there.

I called up i9 customer support to try and purchase a new ratchet ring and was told they do not sell those. If I wanted to replace that piece, I need to send the hub to them directly for inspection and repair ($$) - any LBS that states they can replace it is using non-oem pieces and tools to do it.

When I look to get a new set of wheels, I may look at DT Swiss due to their ease of serviceability and reliability.

 

New (used) bike day! Breaking it in on the whole enchilada Saturday.

 

I got warned by a few bike shops to always make sure my rear axle is tight with my Hydras to avoid that same issue. I was told that you can't really service it at that point, it just becomes a replacement.

 

Went from Hydras to my Control SL's with 36t and didn't notice much to be honest.. excited for DT Swiss reliability too.

 

Yeah its part of the constant bike check now. My old bike had a rear through axle with the handle on it for hand tightening. My best guess was during a narrow chute descent it bumped the sidewall of the trail and must of came just loose enough to slowly work its way out during the ride. I went to put the power down on a tech climb and spun the whole drive train without any forward movement.

The torque must of allowed enough flex in the rear end to let the freehub separate from the body - cue dropping of pawls on the trail and limp mode with only one engaged.

 

Ah, ya that sucks, I added it to my pre ride check. I keep it pretty tight, but I've had axles back out on long rides on my scout, but it never caused any issues. Maybe I just got lucky.

 

i was having shifting problems on my patrol a couple weeks ago. turns out my rear axle had loosened a bit. didn't realize until i got home. seems to have been fine since