Anything welding

Was it fireball tools?

 

Thank You but guys are naming the easiest to find tools; no these tools are specific to thinner tables

Fireball, Strong Hands, etc are specific to thick tables.

 

Man I wish I would've book marked it.

I think I found them by looking up certiflat, but I went to their site as well as other vendors that offer them and I can't find the specific tools I'm talking about.

Again, they're meant for thinner tables.

 

Are they in your browser history?

 

Nope, I don't even save passwords or anything

 

Oh and if curious minds want to know, it's for a 3/16" thick table fixture I made

I figured I could attach it to some square tube for hitch-mounting reasons

I keep getting asked to do mobile work only to turn it down often; may just have to pull the camper shell off the Ferd and get a large welder back there

 

You need to reach out to @RustyGreen

That cat can find anything!

 

Lol I may go with an alternative, but I did post a thread to not deviate this one further

 

Are these them?

 

Oh I already found them but no, it's these



They are indeed Strong Hand, but not even found on Strong Hand's website

 

The 'flat' on top provides a larger surface to put tension on whereas the hook underneath works against that tension so it's essentially "straight" when put under pressure unlike the standard insert-style that place all their tension on the hole itself.

 

Some of today's welds.

 

Those came with my Klutch table. I get quite a bit of use from them,...when I actually weld something. I'm in a long dry spell.

 

Not my welds but I was impressed. I'm up in crested butte and it looks like these ski racks got all cleaned up ready for the winter rush next month. There were a good hundred or so of these racks ~8' long all lined up ready to go.

 

Made this out of extra scrap and left over paint -



This isn't for a customer, and I'm not even a football fan, but I learned a bit already from this sign.

1. Utilize kerf width sized cuts to create separation in the details IE the swords from the helmet and the right side of the face as well

2. Thinner gauge steel for the back plate; currently the face, crest, and back plate are all 16 gauge making it wasteful and heavy

3. Go with my gut as I wanted to use double sided tape (I have 2 rolls) but opted for a max strength adhesive which got a little messy

Ignore the paint blotches and whatnot, this was done all within a few hours and I did not let the paint dry or anything. This piece is sacrificial and will be going to the trash.

 

Let me know what you want for it. My brother is a huge raiders fan lol. Looks good!

 

It's bad in person, like really.

If you want it I'll let you have it free, and just charge shipping. But again, I made this as a test.

 

Perfect for his garage lol

 

Well...pulled the trigger on the Hypertherm torch for my plasma cutter

Now I'll have to see who'll buy my machine torch will all my consumables

 

Nice.

One other thing for your bullet point list is that you don't need to add near as many connectors for your front plate when they are just being used solely for strength. For example, since you said 16 gauge was used, I feel you could delete the one above the right eye. Just for aesthetic purposes.

Basically, if it's strong enough to pick up off the table and clean/prep/paint with some delicate handling, you're usually good.

Pretty much all my signs now are 18 gauge with 22 gauge back plates. I've tried 24 gauge, but it's so flimsy it's hard to handle and you have to fight warping. My supplier only sells it in 4' x 10' sheets and it's like wrestling cheap carpet.

I prefer cutting 16, but just can't justify the extra cost. I get decent results on 18 gauge with 30 amp tips set at 26-28 amps running at 3200mm/min (120 ipm).

I do use clear 2-part JB Weld adhesive though and that binds so tight it adds some rigidity. Sometimes I use clear silicone caulk when I'm feeling lazy.