All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Not at all to say you are wrong, but as has been mentioned, your issue seems to have been more of a damage instance rather than a serviceability issue in my eyes. Not sure I could fault that to I9s design or their reliability.

General maintainece of keeping the freehub/end caps lubed and replacing of bearings is pretty simple and staightforward. Can’t say I’ve experienced the same with other hubs I’ve attempted to dismantle.

Luckily there are lots of really good options out there these days. Pick a color and be a dick about it

 

I bet if you went new now, you'd end up with Vespers.

Personally, I'll run the Hydras and Torches until they nubs on the pawls are gone! I love the engagement and sound they make.

 

Oh I know its completely on me at the end of the day - it is more of an issue with not being able to replace the drive ring on my own and them having proprietary tools to remove/replace. The hubs themselves have been super reliable overall and I have had zero performance issues with them, I would prefer to be able to repair components myself or replace if I have a concern without needing to send them back to the manufacturer.

Not sure I'd want silent (although the instant engagement and zero friction resistance is a benefit). I don't need to hear my bike rattling along with my huffing and puffing for 2 hours straight.

 

I've loved my Dt Swiss hubs. Never had a problem. Meanwhile. My i9 has been...less than stellar in comparison. But it's still been a decent hub. I'm not convinced I need that level of engagement on my bikes. :/

 

I have Hydras, Torches, 1/1, DT Swiss 180s, 240s, the DT Swiss clone that Berd uses on their Talon hubs and Onyx. While I love the Hydra and Onyx level engagement, I found that I'm just as happy with 36T and 54T and the DT Swiss hubs are just super reliable. Having said that, the new DT Swiss EXP ratchet takes a special (not inexpensive) set of tools if you wanted to replace the ratchet. It's not as simple as the non-EXP ratchets. If I were to build up a wheelset from scratch, my personal hub preference would be:
1. DT Swiss 180 (EXP or non-EXP)
2. DT Swiss 240 (EXP or non-EXP)
3. Hydra

 

The DUB bottom bracket design has become a personal pet peeve of mine. That seal/insert is just a terrible fragile design so much so that I have begun replacing all my DUB BB with something from Enduro or Wheels Mfg (no sleeve). A bonus is that I get to buy new tools for the replacement (the crank in the picture goes into a SRAM BB92 bb).

The sleeve is meant to be both a dust cover and to prevent metal on metal contact between bearing and axle. Personally, I think it's just a way for SRAM to use a 30mm bearing for DUB cranks.

 

High engagement hubs are a game changer in the desert, where there's lots of technical ups and pedal ratcheting to avoid pedal strikes. Riding around PCMR (and I'm sure many other trails systems in the country), it's really not that big of a deal.

 

I have the 240 exp. Great hub. With the 54t. I think that's just perfect. Although, according to the Dt Swiss mechs I talked with at one of the races, the 54's have bad wear issues and start to slip over time. But that might be because theyre interacting more with the high performance racers.

I also have the i9 on my short travel and it's great in that application.

I put a 370 upgraded with the star ratchet on my girlfriend's bike and it's been great. More because then I don't have to worry about reliability issues on her bike. Lol

I'm interested to see how the qvist hubs would do. Could get Dt Swiss level of reliability with high engagement but without the added stress on a single star. Haha.

 

And that sleeve gets destroyed quickly on SS setups or if you tend to stand and mash on the pedals. I’ve steered clear of SRAM bbs for a long time because of that specific design/part.

 

And there is a better than 50/50 chance that the sleeve will come off the NDS cup during crank re-install and there is really no easy way to replace it (SRAM doesn't sell the sleeve as a spare part).

Makes you wonder why SRAM would make a new DUB standard (29mm axle) but still use 30mm bearings in their DUB bb. Luckily, there are a few companies that make legit 29mm bearings to replace this crap bb design with.

Ok, rant over.

 

Never been a fancy hub guy, cheapo OEM hubs never let me down. As long as the engagement isn't horrendous I couldn't care less. I splurged one time with the 240s on my trail wheels, only for weight weenie purposes.. No complaints with those, I think I've been though 3 total bearings in 5 seasons. Those bearings are like $19 each so good thing they last... Otherwise can't tell the difference between those and another set I have with 350 ratchet EXP. I also have 1/1s on another set which have been solid and I actually like the soft click sound they make better than the 54t DT. To be honest if I had to build another set tomorrow I would probably get the 1/1s again. $460 hubs should be a criminal offense.

 

The only hubs I think shouldn’t exist except in Walmart bikes are sram or Shimano hubs, one of those are the cheapo hubs Santa Cruz puts on their lowest tier builds.

 

I know it's been a LONG time, since I've posted, or even peeked in here.
Outdated question for those that do their own conversions.
I'm overdue for cassette and chainrings.
I'm looking to go from 11-36 rear, to 11-42(10spd), and ditch the 2x, go to probably a 30t(thinking OneUp oval, but,not solid yet).
Other bike is 1x11, so, just trying to keep it simple.
MIGHT spring for new bike this coming year, but, other projects are priority.
Anyway, XT rear mech... will I need a goatlink? My reading seems to be inconclusive..... some yes, some no...
Not a big deal either way.
Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole fighting something for no reason.

 

I’m not an expert but when I converted my old 2x10 XT with 11-36 to 1x11 with 11-42 and 30T in front, I had to get a new derailleur for that range. I would think 10 speed 11-42 would be the same. I went with SRAM GX and was very happy. New bike is 12 speed SLX and while I like the 51 tooth bailout gear I think the GX 11 speed shifted better.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I was sticking with the 10speed as I shouldn't need a new rear. I KNOW if I went to 11-46, I need a different mech....
The discussions RE goatlink seemed to center around engagement.

Last time I was looking at this(1x11), here, it was suggested to stick with 1x10, much simpler and cost effective.

I spoke with a couple LBSs, and I'm not interested in dropping 1k + to convert to 1x11.

And I like the 11spd SLX my Salsa. No issues.

Just trying to keep it simple. I've had this Sunrace cassette here... I'm hoping to just order a chainring. And if needed, the goatlink.

And again, I could be way off base here...

 

1K+ for 11 speed seems crazy to me.

You should be able to mis-match SLX/Deore 11 speed.
65 Cassette - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=82389&category=3673
55 Derailleur - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=82379&category=689
35 shifter - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=82378&category=772
25 chain - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=67847&category=3674

May need a chainring/crankset, but right now its sub $200.

If you are going to Sram 11 speed you will need a new driver which may lead to a new wheel, so maybe thats where the cost came from. I couldn't see labor being more than 200 either if relying on a shop.

 

I converted my 3x8 hard tail to 1x12 nx eagle for like $500. I did the work myself, but parts and tools did not get to $1k

Backcountry has it for $360 on sale. You might need the bb though

Hard to think 1x11 would be more expensive

 

So, when I was looking at 1x11, that was staying with all l XT stuff. Pretty sure they were just picking up new groupset.

Either way, I have the Sunrace 11-42 10speed cassette here, so, I'm planning to go that route.
One-up has a 104 BCD 30t traction ring that should work fine.(based on digging/reading).
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/104-bcd-traction-chainrings

Might night need to adjust chain length, but, that seems as varied as the goatlink.....

At this rate, with the age of the bike, I'm just replacing worn out stuff. And I've been wanting to ditch the 2x for a few years...

If I stick shimano, I could do 1x11 on the xd hub, just need to change everything else.

Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree...

I usually let my LBS do all my serivceon these(good dude, small private shop, and always done me right).

 

Any Reverb AXS owners here? Any advice for a 170mm post that is sucked down about 30mm? It doesn't fully extend. I have to pull it up all the way but then it gets sucked back down. I tried the bleed trick with the red handle tool but it made no difference. There is a schrader valve I'd like to try pumping to 250psi per instructions but I can't fit a damn shock pump head on it..

 

do you have to take the seat off to get to the valve?