Anything welding

This was an existing file as I cut 20 of these prior for another customer, so yeah not worried about needing to keep it 'connected'

I hadn't thought about going as thin as 22 gauge and 18 gauge. I mean I was thinking of going 20 gauge as it's thin and light (without being too thin) so I'll take a look at that instead.

Maybe 18 on 20? Hmm...how much does that 4' x 10' cost you?

And that's interesting that you use JB weld. I considered that but for the amount I'd expect it to start getting costly making multiple? Any reason you went that route over tape?

I mean since it works for you I'll try it. I used this clear type Gorilla Glue and although it works really well, it can get messy when dabbing it and pulling away.

 

@Wsidr1

Speaking of 16 gauge, this is what it runs for new stuff out here



I normally get an 8' x 4' sheet but only require half as much for this weekend's work

 

Hello TW Welding Gurus,

I bought myself my first TIG welder for fun and was hoping you could critique a few of my lines. I've only informally dabbled in FCAW for a couple of years with home projects here and there. I'm completely school of YouTube taught.

Yeswelder 200P ACDC TIG with foot pedal (Amazon Prime Special)
100% Argon @ 15 LPM
7 cup with 3/32 Red Tip tungsten with about the same stick-out as the cup ID is wide.
Tried to keep the tungsten as close as I could without touching the puddle.
Holding the torch almost vertical, minus about 15 degrees (I'm a lefty so I did left to right).

Steel was 11ga sheet I had laying around.

All set between 130-140 amps.

1) Butt joint using ER70S-2 1/8" filler rod. Every time I dipped it in the pool it stuck to the metal. So I downsized to 1/16" for all others. The bead is really thick. Am I going too slow, not hot enough or was I right in changing to a thinner rod?

2) Butt joint with ER70S-6 1/16" filler rod.

3-5) Just running beads over the surface to practice straight lines (which is really hard to go straight!). All with ER70S-6 1/16" filler rod.

* I didn't feel like my puddle was that big. It was difficult to touch the front of the puddle with the filler rod without touching the tungsten.

* Whats with the porosity at the end of my beads? I have a 3 second post-flow that I hang around at the end because YouTube tells me to

You guys have any tips for me moving forward? Trying not to just keep pushing through and learn bad habits before I just play with all the variables.

Thanks all!

 

Welcome!

I'm not good at critiquing TIG on flat like that other than just add another dab of filler at the end and turn up your post flow a tad more.

Fortunately mild steel is much more forgiving but if you did that on aluminum, it can even crack at the end of your weld.

If you want to follow straight lines, just take a ruler and draw multiple across said steel with a sharpie.

 

Thanks for that! I’ll definitely try it. The sharpie idea is a good one, but even with following the straight butt joints I couldn’t make a straight line

 

@Kwikvette

Recent 18 and 22 prices in my area shown in pic. I couldn't find a rec for 20 gauge. I'm pretty settled in on 18 + 22 for signs.



I got started using the JB Weld because I attach small brackets to the back of the heavier signs instead of just cutting or drilling a hole. Just easier to use same mix for bonding two halves together. Also, I use the JB to attach the bolts on some of the 3D signs with a wider/adjustable gap, like the Harley Davidson signs where I want about a 1" gap. I glue the bolts to the face plate then use nuts on the back plate. Cheap and effective.



You can get clear at Lowes so even if a little bit squeezes out at least it's not gray. Lowes sells the larger tubes whereas Home Depot only has the smaller plunger type (more $$ per ounce).

One the downside with JB, there is no taking the two pieces back apart for paint repairs or whatever. So, definitely pros and cons with the JB. It helps with rigidity, but at a price. So, if tape works for you, I'd stick (pun intended) with it.

 

Man, your 18 gauge costs as much as my 16 gauge

I'll definitely take a look at the JB Weld though; I've used it before for other applications and our Home Depot has many varieties of it

I don't expect to make more than 3 layered signs per year or so, just want to find a standard practice right away for them already

Speaking of @mjbtaco if you really want it, just pay shipping but here's the blemishes

The grey here is ruined cause I had taped it up only 15-20 minutes after I painted it; I did it so I can spray on the white

Pulling the tape off pulled some of the paint



And this spot here I accidentally painted white (as you can see the texture) and so I sprayed some grey over it again



Last but not least, I had accidentally got some glue on the backplate

That meant completely wiping off the paint and glue with acetone only for streaks to appear after I painted it again

Really is the worst sign I've ever painted

 

Shoot me the price. Think you still got my shipping info lol

 

You shouldn’t have problems with the filler metal touching the tungsten. Pull out a tad when you go to dab if that’s how you’re doing it. Kinda like drumming but super slow. Filler metal. Tungsten. Filler metal. Tungsten.

The crack at the end could also be you’re going too slow on thin metal and waiting too long thus blowing it out. Aka melting through. More filler would help or even to speed up a bit because the plates are getting hotter the longer you would so you speed up some towards the ends of that makes sense.

Beads look pretty decent tho. I’m a decent welder but terrible at putting stuff into words and explaining it all so i struggle with this kinda stuff lol. Definitely looks like you’re going a bit slow for how thin the metal is IMO

 

I appreciate the comments and your explanations are just fine! As I get more comfortable I’ll speed up and see how it does and I’ll definitely try that drumming technique. At the ends I burned through trying to find that sweet spot with the foot pedal and taper off at the end. Obviously I haven’t found that sweet spot yet. Or maybe it’s just better to speed up at full amperage and circle back with the post flow?

Any ideas on why the filler rod was sticking to the weld pool?

 

If the filler rod is sticking then you’re too far from the puddle or don’t have it hot enough. If does stick just bring the torch closer to it to melt it off

 

Man, I have screwed up so many paint jobs. I love the CAD, like the CAM, HATE the painting!

 

I don't mind the painting; this was as mentioned, done in haste

The pumpkins and ghosts I made and painted are outside looking mint! And they get hit with the sprinklers every 2 days.

 

Going shooting tomorrow morning. Couldn't find anything to hold up my targets. Welded this up very poorly out of scrap lol. Let's see if it works haha

 

Better than the big 36" big steel plate we hooked up to a light and car battery propped up against some big rocks

 

Hahaha I'll post pics of the results tomorrow lol. Also send me a price for shipping when you get a chance

 

We could..but couldn't

We had a light set up cause we could only spot our hits, no way we would spot our miss even with a spotter when you're shooting over 2,500 yards away

It fits a medium flat rate box which is like $15; I could wait a little and look for some clean cardboard boxes to break down to ship it "flat" for maybe $10?

Medium flat rate box leaves so much room

 

I'll shoot you the $15 lol

 

What are the odds I hit the damn welds at 110 yards lol

 

Lol that's just way too close