TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Good. Fucking. Luck.

Took me an hour to get just 1 out. Professional mechanic with professional tools. Got cage and needles out but front lip is so thin the inside bearing puller just ripped it out. Had to make a sharp chisel and go along the edge and fold it in, breaking peices off as I went along. Marred the back face of the blower housing some, not a big deal its not a crucial area, and can easily be sanded out.

 

Yeah this is the most stubborn bearing I've dealt with ever...

 

Decided to stop playing nice... Went at it with a Dremel flex head and carbide tip. Once the bottom was cut out a bit the bearing popped out. Hallelujah! Just have to ensure housing is cleaned really well due to the dremeling.

Minor marring of the housing itself at the lip of the bearing seat.

 

Are you rebuilding your blower? Excuse my ignorance I'm learning haha

 

Let me know how pressing the new ones in goes.

 

Yeah I am. The last rebuild was in 2012 from the signed and dated coupler I replaced.

I replaced the bearings, seal, coupler and snout on the nose drive and rotor pack, got a new seal for the heat exchanger within the supercharger housing and the housing itself. New supercharger oil. New NSK bearings for all of the pulleys associated with the SC, a new tensioner with the tensioner mod.

Pretty much just a full refresh since I got it used and want to ensure I don't have to deal with maintenance for some time.

 

Where did you buy rotor pack from?

 

Easy. Accidentally hit the outer race on the left a little bit but the bearings are good still.

 

Good, what did you use to put them in?

 

I'd say that even though we were a first-time-go, we were on the fortunate side. Good practices plus a sprinkle of good fortune from Lady Luck do well together.

 

Conquered that bearing.

 

I can't picture this, but it sounds like something I'd engineer.

 

In response to your earlier post, I only replaced the bearings and seals for the rotors. There was definitely some play but after sandwiching everything together it's nice and smooth now.

I utilized a short 1/2" 26mm socket and put a long enough extension through the socket side and hammered the bearings in. Ensured that the bearing housings were smooth and sanded with mechanics sandpaper. Greased up the outer bearing and they slid in easy as pie...

 

So you actually pressed the rotors out of the pack housing without issue? And timed them as well?

 

So with the smaller pulley I noticed I immediately can get to 4 psi of boost with only maybe a 1/3rd throttle which is awesome, however with WOT getting on the freeway I tried holding it to see where it would max out and it stopped at a steady 6 maybe 6.5.
Where would you look for bottlenecks?

And it's only a 2.8 pulley so I know it isn't that drastic of a jump and before I could barely see it flash to 5 on WOT.

thanks guys I appreciate the help

 

Not without a bunch of expletives. I have a 20 ton press that makes quick work of it as well as an entire shop full of tools at my disposal. I marked up with a Dremel engraving tip where the gears should sit in relation to the rotors, shafts and also to eachother. It was probably the most frustrating thing to do in the entire rebuild due to the timing.

I had to repress and press the assemblies a few times because they didn't line up exactly which was infuriating and quite frustrating. The bearings still seemed good though, it was mostly the housing bearings that caused some audible play when I turned it by hand.

Finally finished rebuilding.. just need a new pulley bc that damn urd aluminum one bent up on me from pulling it off.

 

bottle neck is the factory y-pipe but that actually bumps boost up because of restriction. you could have belt slip maybe. these s/c in stock form put out about 5ish near sea level. so youre not far off. i have a full open exhaust, near sea lvl with a 2.3 i hit 10-12 psi depending on weather. im also many levels down the rabbit hole.

 

after looking at the fuss pulling those s/c bearings ill send mine out for rebuild.

 

The nose drive isn't pretty straightforward if you've pressed wheel bearings and such and have a bench press.

Most of the "rebuilds" are priced for just the nose drive/snout. I almost gave up on the housing needle bearings and called around to ask about labor pricing. Averaged $500 just for those 2 housing bearings.

I do see a benefit sending it out which would be having a warranty on parts and/or labor that could work in your favor.

I mostly DIY'd because I've never rebuilt an SC but can confidently say that I could do it way faster now through what I've learned. It was more about learning the innards and fun .. and also that my wallet has been very light lately rebuilding the entire truck from the ground up...

 

That sounds about right for a 2.8" pully.
I'm in socal too and have 2.8 pully, Volant "cold air intake" and a quieter Borla catback exhaust. Oem y-pipe.
My gauge only sees about 6.5 maybe 7 if I'm WOT and its under load from a hill or heavy stuff in the bed.