Long Travel BS Thread

https://youtu.be/OmOeoEjfR6s?si=gw_Sqoo4VMYH2TOb

 

What is everyones thoughts on plugging bleed holes in shocks to combat excessive body roll when running without sway bars? My 4runner sways a bit when I take all sway bars out but it does ride nicer without them. Just dealing with the body roll kinda sucks haha

 

Way better to use a swaybar to control body roll than using your shocks. If you tune shocks for body roll, they won't ride very good. Sway bars are made for exactly what you're complaining about. The 4runner rides like garbage without at least a rear sway bar. You should get a softer swaybar for the rear and find a balance that way.

 

Yeah I used to run only the rear but have since gone to front only. Both sway bars in hitting anything at an angle is very jarring, even front only is pretty jarring. My old Tacoma had no sway bars, 39" tires, was taller and had less body roll than the 4runner. Could have been the plugged bleed holes or PRPs making corners not feel as bad. Who knows but maybe I'll experiment with plugging bleed and see what it does. Biggest pain is pulling the shocks out haha

 

Pretty neat they made that vid of your truck.

If you wanna make a Y back or just get that adapter out of there hit me up. Garage is a mess but the tig is pretty accessible lol.

 

Yes please
As soon as you find some time I would love to tackle it

as soon as he told me about the exhaust my annoyance was ^^^^^^^

I’m trying to locate the 4” version of my muffler right now

 

Or it could be the 4Runner having that much higher COG that makes body roll more apparent. Are the shock packages between the two vehicles comparable? So many details left out on this one.

Have you tried running just the rear and not the front swaybar?

 

Just the rear and no front is how we run the wife’s and we love it. Little more body roll but the off-road performance when going fast or crawling is a huge improvement.

 

Separate of body roll (takes a while to stop bouncing after an isolated bump) I would like to plug some 1 or 2 bleeds in my front kings and maybe make the flutter lighter to try and keep some low shaft speed comfort.

Anyone know what size screw I’m looking for in a stock 2.5 piston? And when I plug these should I use some kind of thread locker or Teflon tape to seal or help the screw from vibrating out of place?

 

Forget the size but they are tiny little set screws. I ordered a handful from filthy motor sports a few years ago and just ran out on my last revalve job. Blue loctite is what I’ve been told and what I’ve used.

 

@thegame If you aren't carrying your spare under the back, the FJ Anti Rock Bolts right up. Love mine, but damn they got pricey.

 

It's because the Tacoma is on leaf springs which are inherently more stable than the linked coil suspension of the 4runner. That's why the Tacoma doesn't come with a rear swaybar to begin with.

The 4th gen taco with it's linked suspension will have a rear swaybar

 

Yeah maybe it was the leafs out back. I had flutters on the Taco too with stiffer compression valving otherwise pretty similar shock package. Fox 2.5 RR fronts and Fox 2.0 RR rears.

 

The best solution would be to get a swaybar like the one posted above, and tune it to where you are happy with body roll and suspension performance, then tune your shocks from there. If you tune your shocks to deal with body roll, it may not roll anymore, but the shocks will perform worse than they did when you just had the stock swaybar in the back to begin with.

 

Damn that's serious lol. I think I'll pull the sways and plug a bleed hole in the front shocks and see what happens. Worst case it doesn't change much and I put the sway back on. Rather not go with that big anti rock, especially for $1000

 

I'm not trying to make my shocks into sway bars, that would be dumb. But if I can plug some bleed holes, pull the sways and make it not have wild body roll it might be worth the trade off for a nicer ride.

 

Man I love this forum.

guy A: asks question

guy B: give respectable answer and suggestions

guy A: ignores input from guy B and continues to try to sell the original question.

At this point… just do it and let us know how it works out. We’re all curious. I still don’t understand why you haven’t tried just running the rear sway bar and ditching the front. As a few have also suggested.

 

My question was more if plugging bleed would help combat body roll; I'm not trying to turn my shocks into sway bars as guy B suggested. I've ran with the rear sway bar only before but it's literally the diameter of my thumb but did feel like it wanted to oversteer more which felt sketchier. I like how it drives with the front only, bit more confidence inspiring in turns. I'll try plugging bleed and report back.

 

So this is a steady state (mid corner) vs dynamic (initiating the corner) problem.

Shock tuning will affect mostly the dynamic portion of the corner (initiating).

A swaybar will affect both the dynamic portion and the steady state portion of the corner.

So a sway bar will really be the only way to limit the roll angle at a certain G-force of cornering ie "combat body roll"

Based on some of your comments you might actually be looking to improve the dynamic portion of cornering, the feeling of "falling into the corner" and increasing the low speed damping would definitely improve this feeling, as this would slow down the rate at which you reach the steady state condition, which would be unchanged.

Meaning with a damper change; the vehicle would handle a lane change with significant improvement, but no change in body roll in like a long on ramp.
The negatives about changing the damper were already mentioned, but this is the balance of onroad vs offroad performance.

 

This totally makes sense, appreciate the engineering behind your response.