Door Speaker No audio

I have a 2017 Toyota Tacoma with an aftermarket head unit. One of my first purchases was the Subaru tweeters and infinity door speakers front and rear. Fast forward a couple years and I amped the speakers with a Sony XMGS4 amp which has had me hunky dory for the past year. Two days ago I thought I had lost audio out of all of my front speakers but didn’t have the time to troubleshoot it. It appears my two front door speakers have lost audio but the tweeters are operating. Would this mean that I have blown the capacitor on the tweeters or is there something else I could have blown between the tweeter and the front door speakers?

 

Need to know how you have it wired and what the amp is tied to. Were new wires run from amp to the doors, or is the amp harnessed back to the stock wires behind the dash?

 

Amp is wired with RCA cables to a Sony xav9500es. The only non factory wiring was a jumper from amp below passenger seat to factory wiring harness behind headunit.

 

Ok. So it goes from HU to amp (via RCA) then from amp to factory harness? And I'm assuming that the HU speaker level outputs (if they exist) are not used at all?

It's possible that the tweet crossover is blown, though I've never heard of both going. Best way to test that theory is to unplug your tweeter of choice and make two jumpers on the 4-wire metra connector: tie the two positives together and same for the two negatives ( pins 1&3 jumped, and then 2&4). If that makes your door okay, then you confirmed a dead tweeter.

 

Ok thanks for your help. Will give it a shot. Yeah speaker level outputs are no longer used from head unit.

 

Maybe run some test wire from the amp directly to the door speakers. If they work, then trouble is in the harness(es) or tweeter pass-through to the door speakers.

In any case, you might want to consider running wire directly from your amp to the tweeter and door speakers.
Here’s why: you’ve got a bunch of non premium connectors/harnesses in the way before you get to your speakers: amp speaker wire to aftermarket HU harness, OEM harness to aftermarket harness at HU, aftermarket harness to tweeter harness, tweeter harness to door speaker harness, and door speaker harness to speaker adapter harness.

Any one of those connections may have failed along the way. And it certainly doesn’t help fidelity.

It’s certainly easier to run through the OEM harnesses but those wires aren’t doing you any favors.

 

^^There’s nothing wrong with using the factory speaker harness until you get past a power threshold.

Losing the filter capacitor would only affect the tweeter, your parallel connection for High/Low precede it. Rather than running bypass test wire all over the place use a multimeter to determine if your speakers have failed.

 

Well long story short. Connections managed to corrode on both door speakers at the same time. 1 was at crimp point of metra connector the other was the spade on the infinity speaker. Don’t really think that could happen twice. Ordered a set of xp902C component speakers. When crutchfield accidentally didn’t send adapters I bit the bullet and abandoned factory wiring and rewired the front. am waiting on a set of boom mat baffles to hopefully prevent the corrosion issues in the future .Thanks for your help.

 

If you're running the tweeters and door speakers in parallel you're at a 2ohm load for the front channels of that amp. Can it handle that? At low volume it's not usually a problem but if you're pushing 2 ohms hard from an amp with a 4 ohm rating, you'll eventually cook it. Since you're running tweeters and doors speakers from an amp, I'd use an external crossover to send the highs to the dash speakers and the rest to the doors.

 

The amp says it is rated for 2-8 ohms. I am using the included crossovers just the splice point is no longer at the tweeter but the two wires paralleled on the amp. Had thought about reconnecting the rear speakers to the outputs from the head unit and using the four channels from the amp for the front but it sounds good enough and I’m willing to leave good enough alone for now

 

while i see where you're going with this, generally once a crossover is included in the mix, it becomes a '4 ohm nominal' audio system. if you look at any multi-way speaker, from floor stander to bookshelf, in any price range, they're all going to be that way.

the reasoning is that with any decent crossover, there is very little overlap between frequencies, and so at any given individual frequency, only 1 speaker is playing that frequency, even though there's multiple different speakers integrated into the same unit, which will present only the resistance of that one speaker.

 

Agreed on the crossover. I was saying if he wired the two speakers in parallel (with no crossover)...