Home Improvement Today?

do you guys run roof sheeting parallel to the trusses too ?

 

No I watched them do it correctly.

 

You think it's dumb. I think it's dumb. When your structural engineer gets licensed in California let me know. You might enjoy arguing with inspectors, but I don't. Random guy on the internet? I'll argue that shit all day long. lol

Nope, that gets run perpendicular.

 

i know it's hard to believe, but there's an entire country with 49 states outside california! just because they do something doesn't mean the rest of the country should!

 

code doesn't specify, but it's a great 'canary in a coal mine' for what's behind the cover plate!

 

I'm quite aware. I spent 3/5ths of my life on the east coast. lol

 

Bingo , because the strength axis of plywood and OSB is in the long direction of the panel

 

First I specified 4x10 OSB. I'm sure you know arrows on ply and usb show it's strength axis. On a 4x10 sheet that axis is along the long run. lol


https://images.app.goo.gl/XHmpSgSutnhLa1GW6

 

all panel goods have the strength axis in the long direction unless its 5x5 baltic birch lol

 

Yeah, it's been a long week. You did say that in the post I quoted. lol

I'll ask my engineer about the reasons for the vertical sheer install in CA. There's got to be a strong structural reason because it is a PIA to install that way. The only thing it does is save a block line at the top break. It allows you to go rim to rim.

 

panel edges are all blocked for you already with vertical sheets , here if a sheeted wall needs to become an engineered shear panel we block all panel edges

 

A couple reasons. Mostly to have the long edges pinned since they line up with vertical studs and even better if top and bottom edges are fixed to horizontals to best resist shear continuously along the entire shear plane.

Running the sheet horizontally helps against bending along the lateral direction of the wall due to wind load. However the horizontal gaps in this direction are essentially regions of missing shear resistance that don't exist when oriented vertically and span the height.

Perpendicular on roofs since it resists bending from normal loads or compression between lines of support best in that direction and resisting shear isn't as important up there.

 

Every exterior wall in CA is a sheer wall. There's not a single run of exterior, excluding window and door openings, that doesn't have hold downs. Even standard 6" perimeter and 12" field nailing is considered sheer. Those will have HDU2 or 5. If it's a 2,3,4 on 12 nailing they will usually have HDU8's or better. 2,3 on 12 nailing also required each member at panel edges, ie studs and blocking, to be 3x or better.

If you guys have an engineered sheer wall do you still run the panels horizontal?

The numbers I've always wanted to see are the actual shake tests at various sheer schedules. When I came out here 20 years ago I was blown away by the fact I'd have to nail off something at 2" on the perimeter. Is it that much stronger then standard 6" nailing? Common sense tells me I'm literally blowing apart the stud behind it even if it's a 3x. Putting that many nails in a sheet of OSB just seems like overkill. I'm just an installer but have always been really curious what the actual numbers are.

 

yes , panels are always horizontal . Our standard code has a prescribed "brace wall panel" section for amount and location of brace wall panels to resist racking from seismic and wind loading . In those walls all panel edges must be blocked so you can fully nail all panel edges . In the area of coastal BC I build in , the spectral acceleration numbers for seismic loading are the highest in Canada and similar to California . We generally have a structural engineer on all projects and he designs the shear walls for the project including hold down location and sizing , stud centres and sometimes species , and shear wall blocking and nailing schedules .

In many of my jobs , including my current one , which is full basement , then vaulted truss main floor , the shear walls go from hold downs in basement foundation to the underside of floor sheeting to connect the shear wall to the floor sheeting diaphragm , then there is a stacked shearwall on that that is GRK RSS screwed and Simpson strapped to the lower wall that frames through the trusses to underside of roof sheeting to connect the roof sheeting diaphragm to the shear wall .

Sheeting is always installed perpendicular to the framing members whether its studs , joists or trusses / rafters

 

I was looking that up as well.

I came across this site - https://www.jadelearning.com/blog/splicing-nm-cable-in-walls-and-other-concealed-spaces/

Read down that page - from what I understand, they are only legal in a few circumstances. But, I'm not an electrician, and I don't play one on TV, so YMMV.

 

i used to stock 2 kits like that on my service truck. but never used them. i kept them for the ultra-extreme-emergency where i had no other choice after some bumblehead hit a wire somewhere it shouldn't have been, and as a cheaper alternative instead of costing a homeowner thousands in re-drywalling an entire wall. fortunately, i was always able to figure out a better solution.

but all the models i've come across like that are all designed for only 1-in, 1-out secenario's. which wouldn't work for the OP, as he needed 1-in, 2-out, to add the outlet in a new location, but also maintain wiring going elsewhere.

even after taking apart the kits i had, i still don't know what to think of them. they might be rated to be safer than a raw wiring splice in a wall, but i don't really feel that confident that they're really any better than that...

 

Not the progress that I was aiming for by November ( I was trying to wash my hands of this project by Memorial day of 2023) but at least it's that much closer. I need to figure the top rail, the 16'er is too short to do a 1/2 lap joint in the corners. There might be enough material to do dovetails, I've just never done a dovetail that big before. It's an expensive piece of dead tree to learn on.