LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Yep, will be stroked to 6.3. I’m going to use a comp cam with a 112 LSA instead of the summit. Peak power from 1600-6000

 

that lobe separation should deliver a decent amount of chop.

 

Once it’s tuned it should chop pretty good. Forgot to mention the heads are getting ported too.

 

Spent a bit of money today…

I figured if I’m doing this engine, it’s worth protecting. Called the guys over at sikky to see what some options I had were. They had me take a look over at improved racing for some stuff I was specifically asking for.



I’m going to be running a 2qt automatic accusump, with the improved racing filter housing. This filter housing is thermostatic so I’ll be running a cooler attached to it as well. Should give me an overall oil capacity of over 10qts and 2 qts of emergency oil pressure should the engine oil pickup go dry (negative g’s).

I looked into dry sump, but no one makes a complete, bolt on, working kit everything needed for the LS at a reasonable price point. Everything is >5k. This oiling setup was 2500$ including the oil pan, oil cooler, all the expensive improved racing fittings, accusump and valving, etc.

 

Mmmmmm

 

Going to straight trade a buddy of mine for his wheels for mine. I think they’ll look way better on the truck!

 

Accusump assembled. The overflow drain will return back to the sikky turbo drain port to avoid oil loss. 10AN fitting added to the accusump for an easy connection to the improved racing filter block.

This will provide a little over two quarts of emergency oil and oil pressure to the new engine should it lose pressure during negative g’s. It’ll also allow the engine to start with over 70 PSI of oil pressure before it starts cranking over.

 

More expensive fittings and expensive cooler. I’m wondering if I should return the Setrab and get another cooler identical to the trans cooler I have that has fans on it, or I could just mount this in the front and not worry about it or adding a fan to it. I’m excited to get working on the truck again. Getting married this weekend and will be out of town for 2 ish weeks. Motor should be close to done when I’m back!

 

New engine is going to be done next week. All that’s left is cylinder boring and final assembly. Picked up this brand new unused fast 102 intake today for $750. Super huge steal on this intake.

 

Grind time this week. Got the front diff, rear diff, and transmission vent relocation hoses on, still need to do the tcase hose but didn’t have a spare clean shirt and shorts to wear home tonight. Cant destroy the alcantara in the IS.
I’m gonna loom up these hoses to protect them and make them a lot neater.

ordered a 2600-2800 stall converter from circle D with their billet front cover. Has a antibalooning plate, so if my trans did cause the issue last time, now it won’t happen again. I don’t think it did but can’t be too sure. The engine builder recommended a 1800-2000 stall, which is stock, which I don’t understand but circle d put me in the right direction. Hopefully will have they back soon, they say 2 weeks but I’m hoping sooner. I have plenty of stuff to finish before the engines ready to go in anyways.

 

Man. Super good price.

 

That’s what I’m saying. I think I need a new fuel rail and throttle body though.

 

New steering shaft in.



this is where the accusump is going to go. I’m getting really low on room to put things in the engine bay, and I still need to mount my power steering and my engine oil cooler.



ARB manifold mounted, all the lines are ran and mounted. Still need to loom them though. I’m gonna tackle the wiring mess in that corner tonight too. If I get that done, I’ll get the trans cooler mounted and plumbed.


Changed the Low pressure return fitting off of the rack and pinion out for a barbed fitting instead, running some 3/8 hose to the cooler and back to the tank.


I don’t really know where to put the oil filter. The spot I had it in last time made oil changes super convenient but it made it a huge impact risk with rocks. Let me know what you guys think:

 

Put it there instead. Protected and out of the way, hopefully lol.

 

Trans cooler installed, lots of airflow.

 

@Dm93 is there an easy source of 12v ign only in the engine bay fuse box? I’ve probed everything and it seems like everything is live constant.

 

I am curious for your solution for routing those cooler lines. Going to use bulkhead fittings through the bed?

 

Right now they’re just in a hole in the bed, but yes they will be getting bulkheads. Same for the coolant.

 

Mounted the setrab 12 row oil cooler on the core support, tucks in nicely with the condenser, and airflow is provided by the spal on the condenser. The power steering cooler, formerly my transmission cooler, is going to be mounted to the condenser just above the oil cooler. Removed the fan from it. Again, spal provides. Waiting on some stuff to arrive to finish plumbing everything.

my fancy spot for the accusump isn’t going to work, with the added height of the clamp it hits the headlight. Going to mount it to the backside of the front skid instead now.

 

If your looking for a fuse that's switched with ignition in the underhood box no but there are some fused wires from the interior fuse box that can be used to turn a relay on if you like.