El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

Travel numbers changing a bit is a given. All I can do is get it close. They shouldn't change much though. The over all travel is determined by the length of the main leaf and the location of the shackle.

The shortness of the block, doesn't really matter. It's the same length as the spring perch... not sure what you mean by lack of articulation.

 

Lack of articulation because the following leafs after the main is not providing as tension.

 

Ya... that dog aint hunting.

You get more articulation with only one leaf than less. You can't get to full bump with all the springs on it, without full weight and without the truck's ass end being, literally, 5 feet up in the air.

The path of travel of the leafs remains the same. Because, again, that is determined by the main spring and the shackles.

 

So, I did most of the prep work for hanging the shocks last night. Cut the bases to weld the hoops to.

The hoops will mount to the frame similar to this.



Fitted the upper mounts to the radius of the hoop.
Went to the local ACE/Napa and got all the nuts and bolts for the upper and lower mounts.
Picked up some c channel and 5 inch bolts so I can tack a jig to the frame and have it be adjustable to determine the angle (inboard/outboard) I want the shocks. (I'll take pictures, it sounds more complicated than it is)
Was pleasantly surprised that the lower mounts already fit nicely on the axle tube. They are already canted 10 degrees (Ruff Stuff). They are the same ones that worked really well on the old axle.

If I have enough time this evening, I'll hopefully get the lower mounts tacked and get the jigs tacked to the frame.

 

That will be a huge hole through the bed. Mines not even that big and I'm cursing myself already, lol

 

The only thing about that picture that's actually going to happen is the way the hoops weld to the bases and the bases weld to the frame.

There wont be any hole in the bed.

 

Ok... Maybe I will have to cut the bed.



Need to order elbows for the resi hoses. So they can route the other way.

 

Your truck is gonna be bad ass when you get done with

 

Ah if you're using the rubber safety bumpers on your shocks and not planning on smashing into whoops and g-outs, then not necessary to leave the 3/8-1/2" shaft showing. Typically go fast trucks will remove the safety bumpers.

Then while tacking in place, they'll remove delrin insert from the end of the bump stop so the strike pad will be flush with the flat end of the bump stop body while it holds the strike pad against the axle to tack it in place. This is done while the shocks and / or coilovers are bottomed out so that by replacing the delrin insert on the end of the bump stop, you'll have a good safety margin for saving the shocks from topping out. The inserts were already put back in before taking this picture.





Also, if for whatever reason you want to limit bump a bit earlier, some guys use a 1/4" aluminum sheet to lay on the top of the strike pad and drill and tap some countersunk bolts through into the strike pad.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict I've sufficiently delt with the frame flex in the rear.



At least for my purposes.

 

I'm guessing you're going to have the rear winch controls hardwired. How are you going to flip the clutch lever without being under the truck, though?

 

Happy Thanksgiving buddy!

 

Why is it a big deal to have to reach under the truck?

 

Some of us are old with bad backs

 

I guess I'm picturing that flipping the switch, pulling out the line, hooking up to whatever, and then locking it back down is easier standing up at the bumper than from under the truck, especially if you're in mud or snow.

Also, yes, my back sucks.

 

Got the sliders and rear bumper Raptorlined today. Touched up the front bumper. Mounted the winch cradle, and fabricated a solution for the winch solenoid box.



I have 3 more days off this weekend. I really need to push to get some things completed, so I can start getting this beast back together.

List for tomorrow.
- Cut bed to clear hoops
- Shorten hoses and clean up routing for the trans cooler. Connect ground to the cross member.
- Fully connect fuel tank. Replace old crusty lines.
- Re-route/Re-install exhaust.
- Make and connect a ground whip (to connect to later) to the winch.
- Route and secure rear wiring harness.

- Cut fenders and bedsides.

If I get that list done tomorrow it'll be a good step in the right direction.

 

Why didn't you invert the winch? The thought of a rear facing winch is nice but I doubt it'll get use as much as plan. I don't even use my front winch. It'll get use maybe once or twice a year if that.

 

Inverting the winch puts the synthetic rope pointed down and subject to road debris.

The way I have it situated it's completely protected.

I used the front winch at least a dozen times this year. Between winching myself and winching others. A friend of mine has a rear facing winch. We were able to help a semi stranded couple off of Rubicon with it. They had a broken rear axle shaft and a smoked out winch. By having a rear winch Charlie was able to stay in front of them and winch them over obsticals without anyone having to turn around to winch them. I'd say Charlie winched them 10 times over the course of 2 days.

I'm not planning on using it that often. (That's why I'm not to worried about reaching under the truck for the spool lever). But it will be there when/if I need it.

I've never used the fire extinguisher on the truck either.

 

That last photo shows it better. Not nearly as far forward as I thought it was.