Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

Thinking about doing this, after replacing basically my entire front end suspension wise, I still have a clanking sound in my front end over bumps. Getting tired of it and this looks easy enough to do, so might as well.

 

Just ordered the 9.4xxx kit, do you have to do the whole jack and 2x4 thing or can you just pry them in and out? Guy on youtube made it look easy with a prybar...

 

I used the pry bar method. Just be sure your digits are never put in jeopardy.

 

Perfect

 

Mother F. Got the drivers side done; was easy. Bolt on the passenger side was seized…. Couple smacks with a hammer, out it came. Threads are all messed up, so the nut won’t even be able to go back on. Do the dealers stock these bolts?

 

No dealer around me stocked the stupid bolt, and my local one wanted $26 for it without the nut….. went to Lowe’s and got a 3/8” x 4.5” hex bolt. Seemed to work out okay, I ran the new locking nut on with a cordless impact being careful not to send it into the stratosphere… all tightened down now, hood alignment didn’t change (2013 A/C). I went with the bigger bushing on the top without the washer in the

$34 9.4101G UNIVERSAL MOUNT

9.4101G kit.

 

I'm always looking for upgrades to do and thinking this on will placate the masochists in me. I don't have any symptoms such as the clunk described but am thinking my bushings are toast. thoughts? NE truck so I went ahead and ordered new hardware thinking I'll just be cutting out the old bolts instead of wasting time battling them. Is there logic behind why you only replaced the front rad bushing and not the cab mounts?

 

I was getting a clunk over speed bumps, mine didn’t look terrible from the outside but they were disintegrated on the inside and the bolt sleeve was completely separated from the bushing, which I believe was causing the issue with severe bumps. I only have 78k miles on my truck, so I don’t think it needs all the cab mounts, nor did I feel like doing them in the parking lot on my back.

 

thanks for the feedback. I'm only at 59k so perhaps I'll start with the fronts for now.

 

I've had the poly front radiator support bushing installed for about a week now and am not thrilled with the change. The truck rides noticeably stiffer than with the OEM bushing which I expected, but not to this extent. I may go back to OEM and post up the energy suspension kit for sale once I revert back.

 

That's odd. I don't recall any discernable difference in ride quality after installing mine.

 

Can’t wait for used bushings

 

Same for me.

And now, I'm running all urethane body mount bushings.

 

To clarify, I meant that I bought the full body mount bushing set as well which are still in the box.

Huh. Perhaps I'm overly sensitive since I recently upgraded shocks/struts.

 

I haven’t made it through all of this thread but I figure I’ll drop my opinion here

I have 80k miles on my truck and while the bushings weren’t trashed by any means they are showing signs of aging so in comes Energy suspension.

I have the complete bushing kit including:
Sway bar
Lower control arms
Steering rack
Transmission mounts
Leaf springs and shackle
All body mounts
Front bump stops

Check out the video here (it is my truck but I didn’t make the video):
https://youtu.be/iSm14kk-_fs

https://youtu.be/7HusWe86Qxs

https://youtu.be/K7iSRWZ2uUo

I think there are a few more videos from energy suspension if you’re really interested (somewhere on YouTube…)

My overall thought is that if it’s time for new bushing the energy suspension bushing are a good choice. I had no fitment issues and there is a noticeable difference is steering input. less “squishy” feeling steering and more control on the washboard fire roads.
The bump stops are better than stock.
Still not anything like a hydro bump, SumoSpring or SuperBump but they are also cheaper than the aforementioned options.

As for body mounts, I can’t honestly tell the difference but this could because my OEM body mount bushings where still good.

 

Hey everyone,

Just purchased the universal kit for front radiator support. However, I didn’t see as many 3rd gens chime in. I’m running an aftermarket bumper as well. What are your experience with running big bushing on top vs small. Also, any hood gap issues.

thanks!!

 

Wow, I just read all 77 pages between last night and tonight. I first learned about this potential noise fix last Nov and had not bought anything yet, but ordered the universal front radiator bushings yesterday...

My summary from reading everthing and filtering out the attitudes/joking/bickering in the earlier pages...

The parts ending in G that are black are Graphite impregnated and do not need to be lubed/greased.
The parts ending in R are red and DO NEED TO BE LUBED. Use SuperLube.

There is no official torque value, but the body mounts are 34 ft-lbs, but just SNUG THEM UP TIGHT. Check after a few days/weeks to ensure they didn't loosen up after they settle.

If you still get noise or have a new one, then congrats - you still have a Tacoma.

There are multiple ways to lift up the core support - OEM bottle jack between that extra wing on the lower crash bar/cross member, floor jack with 2x4 or 4x4, or pry bar. Use whichever one works best for you.

Every truck is different - whether the install goes super easy (no rust, and bolts align perfectly) or "worst case" - bolts do not align, hood gap uncovered.

Thanks for everyone continuing to post updates after many years, I'll be installing Thursday night in the cold of my garage with no heat before I take the truck out this weekend to see if this fixes my popping noise at full lock leaving my garage and the other metal clunking noises when on washboard as my truck is otherwise silent.

 

Got them in yesterday and took the truck out to the forest today. Washboard and cross axle trials twisting the frame resulted in no popping like I was hearing.

I do have a quieter noise to now track down - I need to get an alignment and then double check the torque of the LCA cam bolts.

@crashnburn80 - the popping seems like it was the radiator support bushings all worn out.

 

I’ve done this and still have a popping sound in my driver side. Upon further inspection, I see that one of my LCA bolt is stretched out and over torqued. Probably the last shop I took to get an alignment done because I had them do it twice since the steering wheel wasn’t straight and their lead mechanic drove it and swear it was straight then the manager drove it and drove it straight to the rack for them to re-do it.