95 3.4l V6 4×4 ISSUE

Also the compressor when no air is in the tank will turn on when I turn the compressor switch on, it then will stop going after about 5-10 seconds. When I press my rear locker it will lock, and when I turn it off you can here the air pressure leave on a high pitch sound (psshhhttt lol) It definitely has never continued running more than 10 seconds.

 

Vacuum actuator and manual locking hubs

Like I said, pictures pictures pictures

 

Any chance you have a dragging brake caliper on the front passenger side wheel?

Then if your front locker isn't engaging properly (leaving front diff open), the power is following the path of least resistance to the front driver side wheel.

 

You have one rear locker, not lockers.

If it is an air locker, it engages instantly when you hit the switch.

Up front, you have one locker, not lockers. Your troubleshooting and explanation of things is hard to decipher which is why pictures are needed. Takes 1 minute, go out and take multiple.

I say this because you talked about vacuum actuated not electric in your first post, which leads me to believe you are confusing a stock ADD system for your own manual hub setup. You have manual hubs, that's what they are (not lockers).

With that out of the way, you can lift your vehicle's front end and engage each manual hub. When you do so and turn the wheel, your cv axle should spin with your wheel. When you unlock your manual hub, your cv axle should not spin while your wheel does. Sounds like you ruled out your hubs being the issue.

If you have a front air locker, which you said you do, this should also engage instantly. Have you confirmed your air line is intact? How old is it, or when did you get it installed? Was it installed correctly? Some have developed a leak after some years of use causing their air locker to not engage anymore.

 

Some very basic questions and testing...

First, did you install the font and rear arb or did you buy the truck with it already installed? When was the last time they were tested and use? I'd seen people with just rear arb with the intention of installing the front and will usually go through the process of buying the front switch so the harness will be complete and will look nicer when all the switch are hook up even though they don't have the clamshell locker.

Second, can you confirm there is an air line (blue if it's an older setup and black if it's newer) going to the clamshell? Make sure it's in tack (not broken) from the manifold to the clamshell. Simple test, remove the line at the solenoid and with at blow gun, force air through the line for the front. This is do 1 of 2 thing: 1 - testing for intact air line & 2 - engage the clamshell arb locker (arb engage at about 70ish psi).

Third, have you verify your clamshell air solenoid is functioning as should on the manifold? Easy test, lift the truck off the ground, switch the two nylon lines with the two solenoid and engage the arb lockers.

Pictures, pictures, pictures

 

Can I ask how many switch do you have? You can not engage the rear lock switch and engage both arb air lockers at the same time, that's according to your statement. They're standalone, not standalone like I said. Rear is primary while front is secondary.

Sounds like you have a rear arb air locker only....
2wd open is a 1wd
4wd open is a 2wd
4wd lock rear is a 3wd
4wd lock front and rear is a true 4wd

 

I see, yes sorry I have been busy, I would have taken pics already but I have a skid plate covering my diff and it is bent a lil so taking it off and on is a process. but yes to answer some of those questions I did test my hubs that doesn't seem to be the issue, my bad on the words. I do know there is two lockers total one rear one front, I have three switches, one for arb compressor, one for rear, then one for front. The lines are in tact on rear and front, I can double check it tho with the whole air gun post, I don't have a dragging brake caliper, I did buy the truck with the setup but it wasn't used for a while because it was disconnected for some time but I got it running after I found that some rodents chewed through one of the power wires to the switches, everything is good tho no leaks. When I put the hub locker on 4wd for the passenger side wheel it doesn't even lock the CV. It just freely spins the right side wheel not locking at all. I did recently see a video with marlin crawler of a guy breaking his intermediate shaft and possibly it being that and a little collar that slides the intermediate shaft in and out of the differential which gives it 4 wheel drive. Does this sound familiar to anyone and possibly an issue? Just doesn't seem like it is the hubs or the lockers. Another thing to add is when I have only the rear locker on and I have my truck in 4 hi or lo my front tires won't spin at all obviously. But once I turn on the front locker the left wheel will spin but again not the right. Just doesn't seem like it is engaging but idk where it isn't engaging.

 

Here is a picture I took with the skid plate on of what it looks like the front diff actuator.

 

You got something screwy going on. First of all, passenger side is the right side. Sounds like you are now saying that the right side doesn't even lock out when the hub dial is set to "lock".That's a problem. With the wheel on the ground and the hub dial on lock that CV shouldn't be able to spin by hand. The other issue you have is that there is no power to the front axles at all until the front locker button is turned on. That ain't right. With the lockers (both) "off", the truck in 4wd HI or Low and the hub dials set to lock you should have power to at least one wheel in the rear and the front.

 

It is a manual hub, not a locker.

As I stated in my last replies, you either have it in free mode where the wheel and cv axle spin independent of each other. Or you have it in the engaged position and the wheel spins with the cv axle.

Based on what you said, if the wheel does not turn with the cv axle when the manual hub is engaged, then your manual hub is not engaging properly. Either rebuild it or toss it and reinstall a factory set.

Because you have an aftermarket system, you engaging your front and/or rear locker has no bearing in it being in 4H or 4L. This is only applicable to the factory locker as the truck needs to be in 4L before it allows one to activate the factory rear locker. Again, not applicable to you.

 

Yeah, that has been the story the whole time, passenger side as I said is right side I go between saying passenger side tire or right side doesn't lock or get power haha. The left side locks and is fine with the manual hub to 4×4. It can't be the hubs because both hubs locked the left side. But also both didn't lock the right wheel. Even when I have the truck in 4×4 the right wheel( passenger wheel) whatever you want to call it doesn't lock when manual hub is engaged to 4×4. I swapped both hubs on each side to see. Like I said both manual hubs locked my driver side wheel (left wheel) but both weren't able to lock my passenger side wheel (right side). Also y'all can confirm that is the actuator right? It does have a little line going to it soooooooooo. Also the cv axle doesnt spin on either side when it is in the ground and when I put my manual hubs on 4×4. It's more like when I do put the manual hubs in 4×4 and had the truck lifted in the front, if I moved the driver wheel it would lock correctly it wouldn't let you turn it clockwise or counter clockwise more than about a couple of inches both directions. Then when I went to passenger side, no matter if I had the manual hub in 4×2 (obviously won't lock) or 4×4, the wheel would just spin both directions not engaging like the driver side wheel. It has to be somet in between my diff and my cv axle. Maybe I will make a lil YouTube video to show what I'm talking about haha a little visual or something. It's hard to grasp if you aren't here with the truck.

 

I must add before I get roasted again, when wheels are on the ground I can not spin the CV axles by hand.

 

Based on that picture, you got the earlier vacuum actuated ADD (automatic disconnecting differential) setup. So let's clear some things up, do you have a push button 4wd or a manual j-pattern leverage inside the cab?

With that being said, this probably explain why your getting movement on the driver side and not the passenger. The non-ADD tube is different, there's no moving part. Coming from the CV to the tube to the clamshell, there's 100% contact with the manual hub (dial switch) as your engage/disengage. For the ADD setup, the tube will have an actuator that once you engage 4wd, the slide fork will move a ring gear into the lock position to allow the clamshell to spin with the CV (hence, your engage/disengage mechanism).

In your case, you got manual hub (which seemed to be a conversion due to the fact that your manual hubs are Warn and not factory) with a vacuum actuated clamshell. The previous owner got cheap and didn't change the ADD tube to a non-ADD and probably performed the hose clamp mod or moved the ring gear in place hoping it will remain in the lock position. This is solely based on my assumption from what I'm seeing.

If my statement is correct, you can remove the vacuum actuator and manually move the ring gear to the left (lock position) and test your 4wd.

First picture is a non-ADD tube. No actuator, just a straight tube from the cv to the clamshell. The tube is one size from end to end.


Second picture is a ADD tube (bottom right) and non-ADD tube (top right). The ADD tube is tapered/cone shape.


Pictures of vaccum actuator ADD tube

 

That was my bad, it was late when I tried reading through and mistakenly thought I saw contradicting use.

 

Man I really appreciate you guys, love soaking in the knowledge, but that would make sense @02hilux I don't know if there is the mod on there but the whole fork thing definitely makes sense, its also a 95 so no fancy 4wd button hahahaha, it is manual so I got my stick shift and I got my j Patten leverage too. here are some pics of inside my cab, and all good @Gen1andDone I appreciate the knowledge from you two.

 

Let me do a good response to this Tomorrow, but will respond and try to confirm what you said @02hilux

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-the-1st-gen-tacoma-3rd-gen-4runner.460180/

 

Agreed. The problem lies in your ADD system.

 

Here's what we got.

 

Also is there a part number I can find to convert it to the non add tube? For now I want to see if I can see if it is the hose clamp mode and see if it failed somehow but I would like to get the non add tube. Anywhere specific I can find one or do I have to buy the whole diff assembly to just salvage the add tube off?