Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

You make a good point. But for two reasons. I all ready have the Tacoma and size. Have always been a ford guy prior to moving to SoCal. Makes me kind wish I kept my 96' F-150 supercab 4x4. But the Tacoma gives you the extra in cab space over the Ranger (which I have had as well) but is not as big overall as the F-series or full size Broncos. Which is part of the reason why I think Tacoma's are so popular. We could also think of all the Tacoma's in the Mid-West that have rusted out frames or just the fact we all agree the Tacoma's frame is not the best platform in stock form. Hence your Lower Arm Pivot kit. The best solution that is currently available to create a solid foundation on the stock frame.

 

I know most would but it would not be for most. I think if you could go and pick up a good cab with doors it becomes a solid option.

 

That’s called a roll cage.

 

Would it be better to have a better frame for that cage?

 

Honestly, my truck is stiffer than an 18 year old that popped viagra on prom night. I’m talking absolutely zero frame flex.

 

To comment on our IG conversation for everyone here as well. Last year when I had my clevis to stock rack bolt come loose it mangled the clevis pretty good. Straightened out best we could on the trail and did not have any issues once it got back together. It was worse than this one. Didn’t bind or cause any known issues the rest of the trip. Did get both sides replaced after the trip and it’s something I check someone frequently.

That said, the JD stuff is great but pushing 37’s in the rocks and the desert abuse I put my truck through, it needs more power and strength. Not sure what my plan is yet but gonna come up with something next year after koh as my summer project

 

Not sure if you’re insinuating that my steering didn’t bind but I do have video proof of that and actually had someone else tell me the exact same thing happened to them. You got lucky. And FWIW both of my clevis’s are toast. My truck went from perfectly fine to a locked steering wheel all within 100 yards. And at 70, 100 yards closes fast. In that 100 yards I still can’t for the life of me understand how it all happened. No monster hits, nothing of the sort. Good on one corner, not good on the next.

Honestly I just wanted to let people know what happened to me. Without coming off like I’m trashing JD.

 

Just here for the video...

 

Message me on IG and I’ll send it to you.

 

Might want to just jump on Desert Toys and try to find something. Will probably be just as expensive if not cheaper than a fully developed and fabbed truck as a product.

 

Nope not saying that yours didn’t. Just sharing that mine got mangled and didn’t cause a binding situation. The more info that’s out there for everyone the better they can make their decisions and the better companies like JD can look into improving upon their products.

 

IMO, a billet clevis is a requirement. For those the slide rack will work for.

 

I think this brings up a few topics for me :

1. How did that little split cause your steering to lock up ? I'm on my lunch break at work and just went out and looked at mine and there is a decent amount of daylight between that and where the frame is clearanced around it. I'm assuming your are saying that the edge of that caught on your frame where it is boxed out / clearanced ? That's the only scenario I can picture in which that part would cause your steering to lock up ?
2. If it did not, did your rack lock up internally ? ie: one of my racks that broke some teeth had a really tough spot in it and I always pictured shrapnel inside of it jamming up the rack. It felt locked and then would skip past that point so the steering wheel would get more and more crooked...fun drive home
3. Limitations - none of us like to hear it but our trucks do have limitations, that doesn't reflect on any aftermarket manufacturer IMO IE: all of this mid level bolt on / mild mod weld on stuff we use is just that...mid level. I saw an interview with a pro TT driver recently on that same topic he brought up the example that his prerunner could hit sections at 100mph but a 100k Raptor R could only handle those same sections at 30mph. There is nothing wrong with mid level IMO it is what most of us can afford but mid level has to be driven mid level...

 

The rack was locking up because I was getting significant deflection in the clevis’s, in turn that deflection was binding up the slide rack solid. No contact with the frame.

As far as driving it mid level, I guess I’m not sure how to take that since everybody says everything is bigger out that way than what I have. Also, breaking shit just leads to more innovation.

 

Since this is basically the JD Fab thread…

Anyone have their new frame brace yet? Ordered mine on BF as a more complete way to put 12” shocks on my truck. Should look cool and tighten up the rear. Rear has hammer hammers and cross brace already.

Undecided on shocks yet, truck will stay mid travel and is currently on Fox 2.5’s. They leave a bit to be desired though, maybe I just expect too much out of them.

 

After my third round of mid travel suspension I realized that MT just didn't have what I was after. The great dudes at Accutune spent a bunch of time tuning my shocks with me to try to get what I wanted out of them and I ultimately landed on just going LT. Adjust your expectations if you really want to stay MT, IMO.

 

I will DM you.

 

You need to get the rear of these trucks dialed. Front is easy. Rear is the money. And the hardest part. We have a mid travel truck as well. All archive/Deaver/king/dirtking. The truck flat works. Is it the same as my SUA long travel? No. But you can make midtravel put in work.

Lots of what you feel in these trucks DCSB especially is coming from the rear. You need LOTS of valving to slow that 4” of travel. And it will work.

 

What leaf pack in the rear? That will make a difference and also have its own limitations

 

I have them for SUA setup though. Makes a difference for sure..