Anything welding

Oh yeah, paint looks way better on this one

 

Ok they both came out good; here's the second one

 

Man, tests on 12 gauge were rather inconclusive

I ran tests from 70ipm up to 100ipm at various settings between 30 to 34 amps

No single piece was "bad" but no single piece was also "dross free"

Most all of them had the same amount of dross around the outer edge and some less in the center than others

All off the table with no clean up, all are pics from the underside

 

Any chance you could shows some pics of the drops? I'm curious what the lead in/outs look like.

I'm not an expert, but I do want to learn .

 

The circular cut outs?

I could try tomorrow

They'll be mixed in with all the same sized cut outs from 10 gauge, 16 gauge, and 3/16".

As for the lead in, I did a longer than normal one for the outside by accident and just left it alone cause it's scrap.

I'll grab a pic for ya in just a second.

 

Yep, the cutouts.

 

@koditten

Here are the plates

After the first test cut, I left the lead in because it perfectly centered the test pieces between the slats









Allowing a Y axis cut alongside the slat would've introduced dross that wouldn't normally be present and I didn't want any of my tests skewed by outside factors

I'll fish out the drops tomorrow with a magnet

 

As far as 12 gauge goes, I'm thinking of running 33 amps and 75ipm to see if there's an improvement or not

Then onto cutting a customer's order on 12 gauge

 

@koditten

Got a few 16 gauge, 10 gauge, and 3/16" drops



12 gauge drops are in there but it's way messy inside the table

Close-up of 16 gauge, top then bottom





10 gauge





And 3/16"





The thicker the metal the more trouble people seem to have when it comes to holes, at least what I see in the group and forum

The holes all measure for 0.375" and the only difference I add is a .125" lead-in radius; comes out perfect in my parts







Even though the drops have a tiny bit of bevel, the holes and parts themselves are square; this is where that important factor of cutting counter clockwise on inside cuts and clockwise on outside cuts is important





I'm no expert, and really I expect everyone here to already know what I mentioned but hope the pictures help!

 

Looks like mine. I don't see how you can do any better.

The only other options is laser and water jets= big$

 

Laser

It is nice having a dialed in plasma setup though; again both the square cut out and drops are with zero clean-up

Makes me wonder what kind of shop it was where @mjbtaco got some parts cut out that turned him away from plasma

 

Somebody said laser

Just picked these up from another shop who laser cut them for us. I’m welding beads on the tips. They are fingers for a robot. 5/16” AR400 plate.

 

For us plasma guys, we have to work hard for quality cuts

 

I started out with a hacksaw and grinder, went to a torch, now I have a plasma cutter but no table. It's cool to see the tables you and Kirk have and the projects you do.

 

True and when we get it dialed in, it is oh, so satisfying!

 

You got me beat on the hacksaw part

Angle grinder -> Oxyfuel -> Plasma cutter -> CNC table

I'm too old and in pain to mess with a hacksaw

 

We had some aluminum water jet a few years ago, this is one of the drops. He said he could have gone 2 more inches thick

 

Started on this last night



Feel like I'm a good ways there and almost done



Buddy was hoping I could pull this off after I told him that one of Biscuit was a first-and-last ever attempt; I'm good at making shit but not anything art-related

Pooch passed away in 2019 and his wife has been hurt from it since

 

Anyone need an easyscribe for a hypertherm powermax45?

I got sent the wrong one, an I was told to keep this one for a spare since the engraving tip is the same. But if anyone can use it...

 

Me!

Funny too cause I mentioned possibly trying one some weeks back.