TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Hydro or Electronic Master? The electronic should do the work If not, you also need to have a system bleed the master. Luckily some are still stuck in there. I always had an issue bleeding mine too. Also, some things that make it "easier" speed bleeders help. I added those, and have been great. I had issues on the drums, but the calipers were great. I think I just tightened too much on the rear but makes bleeding way easier and even can be done solo.

 

I'm gonna link this in here just in case anyone is interested, I have a set of billet fuel rails and FIC injectors for sale

 

She’s alive! Thanks to @JustDSM for the quick turnaround on the TRD tune! New Magnuson with 2.85 stealth pulley, URD Walbro 255lph, Doug Thorley Shorty Headers. AFRs are in the 11s and it is boosting 7lbs!

Will be looking and intake and a Y pipe down the road but couldn’t be happier!

2007 FJ with 70k miles

 

Can gears this morning anyone? @greenEFSI

 

Super early! This means @greenEFSI can literally knock these out in his sleep!

 

Trying to do the boost bypass valve adjustment, can't understand what I'm supposed to hear

 

I just adjusted mine and there was not a click or noise. I backed it off until it was fully closed with the set screw not touching and then snugged it up to where it was touching but not preventing it from being fully closed.

 

I love doing can gears!

It's like a "tink" sort of noise. You should have around 3 threads of the set screw exposed by the time it's all said and done.

 

N

Nice I'm right where I'm supposed to be then. Thanks guys.

Now I need to figure out this very small emissions leak before I can smog it

 

Emissions leak? That's a pretty broad statement my man. What kind of leak is this we are talking about?

 

P0456 "very small leak"

I've switched the gas cap already.
It came on after my fuel pump install, so I think I need to double check all the lines and fuel tank lid to make sure those are on right enough.
It only comes on once every 4 or 5 days

 

That's because that's how long it takes for an EVAP system to perform the test based on mileage driven. Which I imagine you are meeting that criteria within that time period.

Are you using an aftermarket cap? If you are switch to stock. The aftermarkets are shit.

Also, the lines require a hard click once you slip them on. I'd you didn't hear that from one of them there's your problem right there.

 

No it's a Toyota OEM cap from the service department, the only line I'm not confident about is the one in the wheel well that damn vent line.

 

You dropped the tank huh?

I lifted the bed for mine and did it right there. That had its own setbacks but it was definitely easier than dropping it.

 

I think it was just under 4 hours including the supercharger removal and re-installation. I'll be able to install mine quickly if I ever get my hands on one lol!

 

Well I was by myself so it seemed easier for one person

 

Welp.. looks like I'm going to be pulling my crank pulley again. Heard something Saturday morning.. but it went away once the truck warmed up. (I'm pretty good about letting it warm up before driving it) Today.. I pulled into work and heard a rotation chirp/rattle.. so parked and jumped out to inspect while it was idling. Oil misted everywhere and visible runout on the crank pulley(s). Not sure if the crank bolt backed out after all this time and or if the cold had something to do with it.. but it either backed out.. or something cracked/broke.

 

That's odd. There should be no reason that pulley bolt should back out since it's not a pressure application pulley, but a keyed one. Maybe you didn't give it suffice ugga uggas when you initially tightened it?

Either way, you may want to replace that crank seal behind it. Go Beck Arnley for the seal, not Toyota if you do.

 

Its been quite some time.. so I'm kind of puzzled too. It is my secondary vehicle tho.. so its sat in between driving, trail runs, weather changes, etc.