6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

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Sorry I should have been more specific: those views views but at a slight angle so that you can see the threads.

 

Okay yeah you're good.

 

Thanks man! Appreciate it. I had to order the threaded sleeve cause my kit didn't come with it.

 

No problem. Yeah the sleeve is separate usually.

 

Big thanks to OP and the community for the ongoing support and shared knowledge. Time for a clutch job, and I'm diving into this conversion. Kudos to Kasbien for crafting his kit—I'd love to place an order, DM sent. I will keep you updated on the installation and the final result.

 

Just FYI, I sourced all the pedal parts from Toyota Parts Deal and they had zero of them and cancelled my order after 2 weeks of waiting. Modern Toyota had them all but it has taken 19days and they should arrive tomorrow. Truck has been down almost a month and a half waiting on pedal parts.

 

Sorry to hear about your frustrating experience with Toyota Parts Deal. One and a half months of your truck being down is quite challenging. I will definitely check with Modern Toyota to order the pedal parts. Thanks for the info!

 

I ordered my parts for the fj pedal on 11/25 and they haven’t even shipped lol

 

Oofda!!

 

Been awhile since I've logged in here. Just started gathering up the few remaining components I need to do this job after putting it off forever... One thing I'm not so clear on though, you also need the fj cruiser clutch master cylinder UNLESS you want to make your own clevis? (So it works with the fj pedal...)

Also, since the tilton hrb has no internal stop and it's important to have a mechanical stop, is there a good way to know where to set the mechanical stop at on the pedal?

Edit: it would appear you want your stop to be hitting right after disengagement if I am reading this right. Which as mentioned earlier could be verified by jacking up the back wheels and confirming engagement/ disengagement and setting the stop from that point.

 

How hard was it to slide that threaded sleeve onto the shaft?

 

It’s very easy. Mine slid right on and my shaft def has some wear

 

I am confused. What do they recommend then? I guess I'll ask CM as I still have their HydroTOB. At the end of the day, a HydroTOB is a hydroTOB, and they look the same.

Very weird. Normally I pressure bleed at 15-20psi, which is pretty much what any dealer, shop, or repair manual says to do. But, that's also for conventional style of clutch master/slave systems.

Usually I bleed, drive, and at operating temp adjust pedal to get bite where they say it should be. But never anything beyond that like any fancy techniques poking around the bearing.

It did start groaning after a while, happens during 1st gear upon initial takeoff momentarily.
Guess I'll pop the inspection port to see how it looks, and if there's any air gap.
Or if that's changeable.

I'd hope a bleed is simple, considering it should be done (at least on brake circuit) every probably 20k mi/2yr on a regular vehicle.
I find it a bit odd it seems whenever I bleed the clutch, what comes out looks pretty dirty, as opposed to the rest of the system (brakes) coming out a lot more clear. Hopefully that doesn't indicate DOT4 dissolving a black seal.

excerpt from CM
https://clutchmasters.com/p-35861-toyota-tacoma-and-fj-cruiser-hydraulic-bearing-installation.html

"With everything in place you can now bleed the clutch lines. Bleeding the lines and slave cylinder is simple and is performed the same as any other hydraulic line bleeding process.

11. With the lines bled, check for any leaks. If there are no leaks continue with reinstalling the rest of the driveline components.

12. With everything installed you can start the truck and feel the clutch pedal and where it is engaging and disengaging. Slowly lift the clutch pedal from the floor and you will feel where the clutch starts to grab. You may need to adjust where the clutch is disengaging to suit you. This is done by adjusting the rod that actuates the clutch master cylinder inside of the truck. Look up underneath your dash and you will see this. Adjust the rod in or out to where the clutch is engaging and disengaging at your preferred height. We suggest adjusting the clutch rod and pedal to engage mid stroke of the clutch pedal. This will give you the best feel and operation of your clutch."

---------

Tilton has a bunch of instruction on bleeding that seem to vary based on bearing model
from 6000-series PDF
https://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/uploads/98-1110-6000-Series-HRB-1.pdf

HYDRAULIC RELEASE BEARING BLEEDING
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not use DOT 5,
silicone based or high temperature resistant brake fluids designed for more than 550ºF
as some will cause the seals to swell.
2. Apply light force on the clutch pedal. You want enough force to hold the bearing out
against the clutch diaphragm spring, but not enough to compress the clutch
diaphragm spring.
3. Open the bleedscrew that is attached to the bleed line on the hydraulic
release bearing.
4. Completely stroke the pedal and hold the pedal down.
5. Close the bleedscrew that is attached to the bleed line on the hydraulic release bearing.
6. Let the pedal return to its relaxed position and wait a few seconds.
Repeat Steps 2 through 6 until all air is removed from the system.
Note: Do not stroke the pedal again before the pedal stop is set.

^^^this, along with other instructions from different models advising to use 3lb force to begin contact to the PP fingers, sounds to me like they're basically saying "squish the bearing together, by way of lightly pushing it with the PP fingers, to that fluid pressurizing does not make it come apart"

^I wonder if that also applies to the CM. It doesn't sound that hard to do. There could even be a workaround. Like put a pry bar to the pedal while bleeding (slight pressure). This sounds to me like it's simply to prevent the bearing from coming apart.
I don't see how this would suck in air(fail to bleed) as there is no air available to be introduced; only pressurized DOT4...

At least with CM, *if* it even does this to any extent (they have no warning of it nor falling apart from it) it could just be a matter of make sure the pedal is pushed so it's in a normal position, before rod adjustment. ie driving, which you do before anyway to reach operating temp.
I'm guessing it's not "one way" in the sense it would maintain that pressure from bleeding, and simply backfeed up into the reservoir...


On a separate note; the CM looks an awful lot like Tilton. To my knowledge, Tilton is a mfg of hydroTOB's, not CM. How do we know it's not actually a Tilton product, that CM had them make to a spec, or provide certain parts for then made to fit with adapters...



If I had to guess, CM would probably tell me just do a bleed, adjust the height, and done.

 

Measuring the ID of this and its 35mm. My shaft varies from 35.05 at the front to 34.98 farther back. It won't slide on. Lol I'll have to manage something to make it fit.

 

Get some Emory cloth or even red Scotch Brite to smooth that shaft (gigidy) will probably be enough to smooth it out and slide on. I see the threads were not very kind to your hand

 

Whew. That's a lot.

Having spent as much time under the truck as I did this Fall, I wasn't in to speculating the how and the why so much as following what the manufacturer suggested for bleeding and moving on because it worked. That said, the first time I bled the system, I used the conventional bleed method I have always used on hydraulic systems. For whatever reason, that method didn't work when I needed to bleed again/2nd install, so I asked and followed what Tilton recommended and that worked. YMMV.

 

Are you guys using a vacuum pump to bleed? Not Tacoma related but I’m in the process of doing the clutch master in my Mazda 3. Absolute nightmare. almost entire dash it out. Ecu out, BCM out, fuse box out, and still can’t get the damn thing out. Makes the Tacoma stuff seem simple.