Cold Starts

It’s very popular in the European community. Mustang owners love it because it helps a lot with the Coyote “tick”.

Check out the user reviews.
https://a.co/d/60wwblo

 

The point i was trying to make is whatever "clatter" you were hearing wasn't the valves. You were hearing something else. Reread post 14

 

It is metal to metal contact, whether it’s hydraulic lifters or the valves themselves. And this is only what is obviously heard. It is also recognized that cold starts are the number one source of engine wear, by far. Anything that reduces this is welcome in my book.

 

Op needs to read up on how our valvetrain works.

 

Explain to us how the valves get their lubrication

 

Its a VVTi thing, although my engine has never done this after 206k miles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwJ5BBHb9W4

 

Yep, that too. Common on 4 cylinders like the Honda accord and Corolla /Camry. If OP had that noise it should be back the dealer getting fixed under warranty

Bottom line, if OP is claiming his magical goop is keeping the noise away then the rest of us (without it) should be hearing a rattle on start-up.

I'm not hearing shit on my truck. Nor am I hearing anything on the hundreds of cars I change oil on every year at work. These are regular customers and I would know if they're using additives or not because I would be the one putting it in there.

 

Both my 3rd gens have no chatter on cold start. My 2018 company truck gets the cheapest syn you can buy in bulk with 10k-15k OCI.

Warm idle, they all sound like they are going to explode lol.

 

To be clear, 0W-40 and 0W-20 do not flow the same when cold. 0W-40 is typically slightly thicker when cold than 10W-30, assuming the same temp. The 0W in 0W-40 basically ensures that this is the best cold-flowing 40 weight that you can buy, and that it will flow better than 5W, 10W, or 15W-40, but that does not make it have equivalent cold flow as 0W-20 just because both are 0W. This is easily seen by comparing cSt ratings of all the different viscosities from basically any brand, by checking out the product data sheets.

That said, it will still be fine down to around 5-10 degrees F, just like all engines in the past were. Anybody that says the motor was "designed for" 0W-20 is ill informed. That was probably the oil they used when designing the engine and testing it, but that doesn't mean it's "designed for" it. If it mattered, the Mexican owner's manual and the FSM would not say what they do.

I have no dog in the fight about Cera-tec, valve clatter, lifter noise, or timing chain noise. I have not experienced any weird oil related noises at startup in my motor, so I have not been looking to solve any problems.

For the record, I don't run 0W-20.

 

Exactly what I was trying to say before... But OP doesn't get it.

In theory his doing worse by his motor by running 40w in cold temps.

 

This sounds like a cheezy infomercial ad for snake oil. Nowadays even the cheapest of oils, changed at reasonable intervals will be more than enough to cool, clean and lubricate a motor for its serviceable life.

This product reminds me of when they had the Teflon oil additives back in the day.

 

Is CeraTec a modern version of Slick 50?

 

Step 1 - create a "problem"
Step 2 - create a "solution" to the "problem"
Step 3 - cash in
Step 4 - bro down

 

You are correct, they are not exactly the same.
M1 Euro 0w-40 pour point is -42, M1 advance economy 0w-20 is -51. Very little difference considering we don’t live in the Arctic. If I experienced a lot of negative temps I would be running pan heaters no matter the weight.

 

For the most part he is correct, just not on the 0W comparison, which is a common thing because people think that anything with a 0W is the same when cold, anything with a 5W is the same when cold, etc. The industry has done a good job of making it misleading by labeling them that way.

In the end I don't think cold starts matter that much, provided you stay within the temperatures ranges as guided by the manufacturer. After all, we trust the engineers, right? For example, the Mexican manual gives you minimum temp ranges to not use 10W-30 or 15W-40 below. Those oils get pretty thick when cold, and 0W-40 will fall somewhere between them. However, thicker oil usually clings to the parts better after shut down instead of running off, and doesn't drip off as fast, so while the cold start may be a bit slower to get oil from the pump, there is probably more oil clinging to the surface to begin with.

 

I agree, just wanted to address that they are not exactly the same. The advantage to 0W is clearly that it will be the best flowing version of the weight you choose whether that's 20, 30, or 40.

 

Highly renowned company in the Euro car market for their additives and oil. They are German. Liqui Moly is the company.

 

Good article on cold starts from Motul, I’ve heard anything from 75% to 90% depending on conditions.

https://shopmotul.com/do-cold-starts-increase-engine-wear/

 

Zero “valve clatter” over here and I live in a cold climate. Truck lives outside and no block heater. 0w-20 pennzoil ultra platinum.

 

Meh, my truck starts quiet on synthetic 5w30 just like it being warm. Started the other day 20° no issues as expected.

If and a guy wants to run 0w40 and an additive that's perfectly fine. If it works for them then so be it. However, I do predict several pages of non-scientific facts being brought out so I'll enjoy the show