Alternator finally went... recommendations wanted

Stock tow-package alternator on the 4.0L is: 130 amps. I believe the stock non tow-package alternator is 80 amps.

 

At 75K on the original stock alternator I probably have at least another 75K left, esp. now that I have a good on-board battery maintainer that I use routinely.
By the time my 2014 Taco needs an alternator at ?? 135-150K (or more,) that might be 10 years from now & it will be even harder to find an original Toyota/DENSO 130A alternator.

Looking in to buying a quality original Toyota / DENSO alternator rebuild kit (including bearings) so that when the time comes I can just rebuild my current alternator myself. I wonder if any special tools are needed, eg. bearing pullers or presses, etc.

I've started a collection of original Toyota parts to have on hand so I don't have to hunt (and pay, and wait for shipping) later on. Downsides are upfront cost, storage space, and the pain-in-the-butt of reselling all of it if somehow my truck gets totalled & I decide to replace it with non-2nd-gen or entirely other vehicle.

 

Doing that kind of labour it just makes all the more good sense to get the best actual part available.

I made that mistake once on my dad's old Grand Am. A month later it croaked. I brought it back to the place I got it (a mom and pop where I was known) and when asked what it was I said "oh the high quality stuff you sell me". Yes I made sure no other customers were there first haha. I got another rebuilt and a promise that if it croaked again they'll get me a factory new one. No further issues the 4 years he had the car. That said it was a 10 minute job to replace it.

Sad they are so few and far between. I'm lucky to have found one of those.

 

A neighbor who has a 2 double door garage, so enough room to fit 6 without anything on the curb, he owns a shop. Small independent, him and 3 guys. If I need to take it in for something I don’t want to do myself or own the tool needed, that’s where it goes. And yeah he’s always booked usually 2 weeks out.

The 6 he kept at home were all pristine cherry 30s to 50s.

He moved which kinda sucks. Anything I needed done I just go tell him, he’d check the schedule and ask for the keys when time. Then he’ll drive it to the shop & bring it back done. I still bring him work sometimes.

An honest shop lives a hard life. They constantly hear basically the last mechanic cheated me so I don’t trust you.

 

Wouldn’t increasing alternator charging without a higher constant load that uses it (such as police cars) result in battery overcharged

I believe new cars come with variable alternators and/or clutch, and BEM
Battery energy management module

If left is bad so is right
They’re the same age and miles

unless it’s defective or outside influence like trashing a bearing hitting a curb

one side at a time means angering customers when it breaks a week later and they have to come back

honest shops are 2 weeks out minimum
meaning full of customers

when the last “mechanic” “cheats” them they go there to have the car fixed because it’s still broken

 

My factory alternator made it to 308K

 

I think my original 2009 2.7 ltr alternator is on its way out. Does anyone know of a way to try to save the OEM alt myself? Just read somewhere about a guy that said he took off the alternator, cleaned the brushes and it was good to go. Wasn't a taco tho. do you even refurbish bro?

 

Alternator spare parts:

https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/

Haven't used them personally but other reputable TW forums members have.

 

just looking at the pic of the parts makes you want to buy a new one haha

 

The good side is that shop also isn't hurting for work. Just got mine back from my guy needing an oil pan. He told me yesterday $1500 top dollar but depends if the engine has to be moved or not. It didn't. $900, plus had a trans service so came to $1100 in all. Most shops could have just billed $1500