LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Well done @81Trekker and team.

 

I have been arguing with this engine mount bolt for like 5 hours now…

 

Put a prybar between the end of the mount and the motor and pop it in, bish bash bosh

 

It’s been tried. It’s kicking my ass.

if I was designing this again, I would’ve used a similar design to the JD tie rods, with a tube with a RH and LH threaded boss on each end and spherical rod ends on each side, that way the length could be adjusted.

 

Have you loosened the mount on the block? Loosen that a bit and then pry it over. Tighten the mount to the block after. Also, are those flanged bolts sitting on the weld bead? Hard to tell

 

No they’re sitting on the flat plate surface. I’ve loosened from block, tightened to block, left one side loose. It’s frustrating. I’m gonna remove both sides from block and mount it to the frame first then set the motor down.

 

I found putting a longish punch through the frame mount and into the engine mount and prying it that way. Works pretty well I’ve found.

 

The plates are symmetrical.

 

I find motorcycle tire irons to be handy in situations like this

 

5 more hours and it’s finally bolted in. God it was such a SOB. Got the new valley plate on, but two of the holes are cross threaded so I’ll retap them tomorrow and fix them. I ended up scrapping the front steam port setup and but the factory one on, but the rears I kept. Tomorrow check torque converter spacing, and bolt it up. Then the starter can go on, intake manifold, and get all the wiring done. Will need to bolt the exhaust together again too. No biggie, should theoretically have this thing ready to start tomorrow, only exception being the oil lines which will be made Tuesday!

 

Soon. Very soon.

 

Test fitted intake, interfering with the steam ports I had, so I overnighted a more compliant version from motionraceworks.

torque converter backspacing was perfect so I bolted it to the flex plate, loctite and torque to spec. Starter was installed, exhaust was bolted to the manifolds, and the entire engine is now wired up with the exception of injectors and coil packs.

Spent about an hour just cleaning the shop. So many boxes of shit everywhere. We’re super super close to start. Hose guy comes tomorrow to measure and figure out what fittings are needed, and hopefully will have those the next day. Should be done the same time the steam vents get here.

 

@Dm93 i may have fucked up. I left the negative on the battery and my starter positive touched the frame and arc’d. What’s the PN for the bus bar/fusible link? I don’t know that I toasted it but I can’t turn the ignition on until my fuel lines are connected.

 

Oof.

 

AFAIK the main power wire to the starter is not fused, just the wire going to the alternator is.

 

Beauty hardware showed up for the accusump mount.



Motion raceworks vented catch can, both of the valve covers are router here.

I ordered a second, non vented catch can for the valley plate PCV, it’ll go to that catch can, then to the intake manifold to put some negative pressure on the crank case. The valve covers will pull fresh filtered air in through the motion raceworks catch can.

I did a lot today, but it doesn’t feel like it.

Got all the wiring loomed up and neat, got the trans cooler prefilled, got the power steering lines hooked up and got the power steering cooler installed and lines ran. Got the battery tray situation figured out so it’s not such a PITA to use. Had to lengthen my MAP sensor wiring too since it’s located in the front now.

the hose guy came today and we planned out all of the runs. He had to go buy some fittings today but tomorrow or Thursday we’ll get the lines made. The motion raceworks steam vents get here tomorrow, after that the intake can go on. This thing is ready to start for the most part. Only things left to figure out is the whole cooling system thing, but 454’s got that handled.

we also had to delay doing AC lines because the fittings I bought for the condenser don’t fit… frustrating. If anyone has a set of condenser lines they’re getting rid of; please let me know.

 

Had you not said MAP sensor, I was going to say that the engine would run poorly due to a vacuum leak.

I doubt it will now though.

 

Vacuum leak where?

 

Classic UPS… delayed the motion raceworks steam vent tubes…

 

The 383 is up and running in the Tacoma again!

needs a tune horribly bad. Had the wrong map sensor calibration in there and the sensor itself wasn’t sealed on the manifold. Got the correct sensor in there now but haven’t gotten and chance to run it yet. I’m going to see if my tuner can send me a base file.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-ZF86nmJQd0?si=TPj2HkKkh3o0dVPx

no leaks! Took 10qts of oil with the cooler and accusump plus the sikky pan.