Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Cruising around town....

 

Got a fuel venting question (5vz, but probly the same for most). I eliminated the charcoal canister/evap box due to no room under the hood (shock towers, other crap), and only have room for a short/stubby intake w/out much room for a vacuum inlet. It looks like my options are either (A) add a rollover valve and filter to end of vent line or (B) repurpose a charcoal canister somewhere and plumb into intake. You guys see any issues with Option A? Option B is gonna be a pain.

 

Without the sensor(s) on the EVAP system, this will trigger the MIL. As stupid as it may sound, I would go with option B and relocate elsewhere. But that's just me. I hate driving with Xmas lights in the cluster.

Hell, I went as far as reouting and plumbing the damn ADD so my 4WD light still work when engaged.

 

Agree with the xmas lights, our house and yard are covered enough as it is...but as a temporary solution i'll live with it if that's the only impact (MIL being on is not an issue for emissions here). Thanks!

 

More research. It this thread ok for random questions?

 

What size tire can I fit after a SA?

Yep...

 

Reading this build
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-sas-part-one-dana-44-rebuild.308838/page-3

and see where he rotated the Cs about 12 degrees. Why that much? What determines how far to rotate them?

 

Read post #47

 

" Just to give you a perspective as to how much you should rotate the outer C's, 16 to 20 degrees of rotating yields about 7 degrees caster (from what I've read).

This is one way to determine how far to rotate the outer C's...

First determine the radius of the axle tube. If the axle tube is 3" in diameter, then your radius is 1.5"

Then decide the amount of degrees you want them rotated (I chose 12 degrees).

Theta refers to the angle between two lines. (In this case, 12 degrees)"

So why 12 and not 16? how much caster should one shoot for?

 

Some progress

 

So finally got the panhard in and everything cycled. But having issues with panhard vs drag link length

Superduty axle. Draglink measures 46.5 eye to eye and panhard is 41. 5.5” difference and panhard is currently a 1.5 degree difference from the draglink. I am going to adjust the panhard to be as close to the same degrees and believe I can get it to 0 or within 1 degree.

how much bump steer can I expect with a 5.5 in difference though? Everyone says the degrees is important and to keep them flat which they are close but the 5.5 in length difference worries me since my personal truck is within a degree and within an inch. But my truck also uses an inside the frame steering box vs the outside the frame Toyota box in this other truck.

 

@malburg114 (this is just a copy/paste from the other thread)

I built my truck (frame/suspension) in SolidWorks before I started actually building it. I messed around with a few relationships with the draglink/panhard trying to minimize my bumpsteer. So in my modeling I found as the suspension droops, the pinion angle increases (obviously this depends on how you setup your upperlink/lowerlink length ratio), and the axle mount for the draglink creates a slightly larger travel arc than the axle mount for the panhard bar. So in order to minimize bumpsteer it is better to have the draglink slightly longer than the panhard bar. For my application, I found making my draglink 2.25” longer than my panhard (my upperlink is 84% the length of my lowerlinks) my bumpsteer is practically zero. The smaller your upperlink/lowerlink ratio (to where your pinion angle won’t change much throughout travel), the closer your draglink/panhard need to be in length. If your upperlink/lower links are the same length, then your pinion angle changes more, and I’d shoot to make the draglink maybe 2.5”-3” longer than the panhard bar. This is an oversimplification, there’s obviously a ton of variables and unless you model your exact setup you won’t know what is the most optimal. Hope that all makes sense.

5.5” difference is quite a bit. You will have some bump steer (I can’t tell you how much or how good/bad it will be), I’d say just try to make sure your pinion angle points higher as it droops, lengthening the upper link will help.

Another option is to do an inverted-T steering setup.

 

I was going to suggest a y-link/inverted T as well. A buddy up here with a ranger went that route to keep the lengths closer

 

Copy and paste as well from the other thread

Thanks. So after lots of research and hooking up the steering shaft and putting a camera to watch the steering wheel and a few hours of cycling, I found there is next to no bump steer. And this is with the frame side panhard still high 1.5 degrees compared to the drag link. The only time I see bumpsteer is when the axle is fully articulated (one side up, one side down) and it’s very minimal. Steering wheel maybe moved a 1/16 of a turn. It’s barely enough for me to see at the pitman arm/knuckle. I cycled it several different ways and main thing I was concerned about was at ride height and 2 inches up and 2 inches down from ride height and there is none there so that’s good.

good to know about the lower/upper link percentage and how it affects it. I forget the percentage it is now and I haven’t finalized the pinion angle so that’ll help more.

 

My tcase (2speed atlas) has Toyota flanges front/rear.

For the front axle, a D60, I went with a Toyota flange as well.

But for the rear axle (14bolt), however, I kept the 1410 yoke it had on it. Those 1410s are massive, it made no sense replacing for a Toyota flange.

So three Toyota flanges and one 1410. It has worked well over the years.

The 4cyl engine running 40" tires was part of my decision with the Toyota flanges lol.

 

Decided to go ahead and address this by just making new shackles that were 5" in length as opposed to the original 3.75" length ones. This bumped my frame height up to 22.25", and bumped my caster to around 5* positive. Also gave me a cunt hair more uptravel. Also finished gusseting the front hangers

 

Started New Year’s Day. Put a few hours a day on it

axles are 05+ superduty, 5.13s grizzly lockers.

trail gear box, psc 1.75” bore 8” stroke.

shocks, king 2.5s 14” travel from @AccuTune Offroad.

rear has a 63 swap.

 

@ Timbos Customs, curious why you burned the steering box in before even getting shocks or links mocked up? I had to move my box multiple times before landing it in the right spot, drilling those holes all over again is not fun

 

Because it’s mounted as far forward as possible without doing some major reconstruction of the core support/ radiator mounts. It’s 1/4” away from hitting the lower hose

 

It fits it ships