Long Travel BS Thread

I just repaired my buddys today his broke at the top hat. Replaced with the “new style” $65 top hat they have with a brige on top. Doesnf look all that much stronger.

 

Controlling warp is tough on something like that best to just do it evenly so you have opposing forces and only do very little bits at a time with the proper heat. Easier to do with tig welding (which I doubt they'll do), since you can't really fixture an axle in opposite tension which is usually the easiest way to combat warp.

 

Reputable shop like that will know what they’re doing and be able to do it without warping. When I did mine I spent a few days welding it to prevent warping.

 

I made a Ruffstuff 8” truss fit my 8.75”, welded that on probably 80k miles ago and haven’t worn out rear tires weird so I guess it’s straight. Only thing I’ve bent is an axle shaft slightly.

 

Well boys the truck is up and running again with the LS.

 

have you gotten it tuned yet? was hoping to get mine done this week before i leave for christmas but apparently when you run camburg race hubs it makes mounting to a hub dyno very difficult. now gotta wait till jan when they have some custom spacers made to allow it to bolt up

 

my very good friend makes these....fixes your carrier bearing issues
Toyota billet adjustable Center Support Bearing | Mitchmadeinc

 

No I haven’t and it’s running like a bag of ass. I’m gonna try getting a base tune made tonight.

 

Going to all that work to 3-link it, disc conversion and truss it why not start with a wider housing, so you did not have to run the spacers?

 

Here you go.

 

Because $6k+

 

Anyone have an O/U guess on what All Pro's new setup is going to be priced at? According to IG they're going to release pricing at Toyota Jambo in May.

 

I trussed my 8" with the Ruffstuff Mini axle truss. I did short welds to try and prevent warpage and haven't noticed any issues but it was a lot of cutting and fitment work to make it fit. I wouldn't do it again if I'm being honest.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...89b_5N6oDwQesU8s_kUd2zFHW9a_lEBEaAlhZEALw_wcB

Link to my build thread where I did the truss.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tch-build-thread.451723/page-45#post-25506812

 

I’m guessing he will do it if/when he sas the front.

 

How'd you get the diff guard clamped? Welded the upper tabs directly to the axle?

 

for me the answer is keeping ABS since it’s my daily.

i did find someone that makes Fab’d housing’s with the oe flanges & bearings & extended oe axles so you can retain abs but yeah your spending $5k to accomplish the same thing as a set of spacers …

 

yes they’re welded on both sides, as the ones that came with the BAMF diff would interfere with the truss.

 

It’s been trussed/disk swapped for a couple years, and haven’t broke the diff or a shaft yet so thought I was going to run this axle for awhile.
I was trying to keep Abs, but recently just deleted all that stuff so will do a 9” or 14 bolt/sterling probably next year sometime. Isn’t much work to weld a couple link mounts on a new clean housing when I do.

 

For those who run Hydro bumpstop upfront on their second gen’s, what nitrogen psi are y’all running?

Just got some put on the front of my truck, 2 inch stroke off the lower control arm like usual, they come into effect almost immediately with up, travel from ride height. The ride feels noticeably stiffer over small bumps, and some seed bumps so far.
I have got 150 psi in them now.

Any suggestions?

 

Installing hood pins to eliminate some flutter. What a fucking pain in the ass.