Home Improvement Today?

definitely better to fix the right way.

but i also recommend using a wax-free seal afterwards to make life easier!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Korky-Wax-Free-Toilet-Seal-Kit-6000BM/205616926

 

So I saved a piece of the old window trim and compared it to a scrap piece of 5/4 that I had laying around. It's actually thicker. It's 1 1/8" thick. I'm wondering if this is going to be tough to find. I need some in various widths, the widest being 7 1/2".

 

Fer out with ply or 1 1/2 lumber and plane it? If it's a older home I would check the thickness of a few other trim.

 

What I removed was factory pre-primed FJ. Going to try and track some down before I explore other options.

It's a very expensive house on an exclusive private country club. Needs to be perfect.

 

You usually can't fur out frieze board because the whole bottom is visible. Window trim you could fur depending on the type of siding and how the trim was installed. ie, over the siding or with the siding abutting it.

@Sig45 There's plenty of mills that will get you what you need. It will be special order and milling fees will apply. If it's that high end of a neighborhood most people will have no problem with that cost. The down side is the wait.

 

I can't fur it out as most of the edge is exposed. It abutts cedar Clapboard siding. I'm hoping to find some pre-primed. We've got a few smaller/specialty lumber yards around.

Plan B would be custom milling.

I need 3.5" wide, 4.5" wide, 5.5" wide and 7" wide.

My customer is a transplant surgeon. He does quite well. Super nice family and down to earth.

 

If you can't find stock or get it milled a last ditch method would be to miter the current stock. Rip both sides at at a 45 on a table saw. Then rip 1 1/8" pieces to the long point of the 45 and start gluing and pinning it together. It's way less then ideal especially for exterior on NE winters. I don't miss those at all. lol

 

The frieze boards I need to replace are the 7" wide boards. They are on a hexagonal part of the building where there is a deck. They almost touch the deck. I'll raise them a tad. Those will all require clean miter/bevel cuts.

 

It's not urgent. May have to wait until spring. I'm taking Christmas and New Year's weeks off. I'll be regrouping with them in January. Probably safe/best to remove samples of everything I'm replacing to make sure it's all (or not) the same. Wouldn't want to have it all torn apart during winter.

 

Flange Leak, Fixed.
My hunch was correct- the drain line is too close to the sub floor to fit "normal" elbows. The previous plumber pulled some shenangains to make it work, and did a shit job glueing it.

I had to trim and modify the parts I got as well to fit within the space constraint, but I did it in a mo-betta, less leak prone fashion.

Reamed the elbow at the top of the picture, fit new 3" drain to 3" => 4" elbow + 3/4" flange.

Original:


3" elbow to ??? fit on the INSIDE of the flange...


New assembly:


Nice and level








Gotta put the LPV back down and reinstall the toilet in the morning.

No Leaks, sub floor is sound.

I was hoping the new bidet would arrive in time, but it's running late. Which means I have to reinstall the existing toilet for like 2 weeks

 

I think the one roll of 12/2 I bought was almost $189 when I was replacing my electrical panel

I need a roll of 14/3 which looks to have come down to $112. Not bad. Not great, but not bad. I could get by with a 100', but that is $84. Not like wire goes bad.

 

The Lowe’s near me has all there wire locked up now.

 

So in my never ending quest to cover the nicotine bleeding in the bathroom I found my test spot of Zinnser oil base has failed within a week

Looks like the next step is two coats of a shellac based primer. If that fails it's drywall time

The other rooms have been successfully covered, but those are not subject to all the humidity like the bathroom gets.

 

The places in town by me all still want those COVID prices. Like ace hardware wanted almost $300 for 250' 12/2. Menards that's 3 hours away is $150 for the same thing. (Even less with the 11% rebate). Even with shipping that's a huge difference

I was lucky when I was building my garage and found 1000' rolls of 12/3 and 12/2 on eBay of all places for good deals even by today's pricing.

 

perfect scenario for one of those non-wax reusable toilet seals!

 

i really would just drywall at that point. some places sell 1/4" drywall. just layer it right over the existing walls, mud, paint, and call it good. you lose a 1/2" of overall space, but a lost 1/2" is way easier than 10 different products and a fear that any of them might fail 2 months later...

 

That would work out pretty good as I need to replace the current fart fan which will require a smaller opening. There's no way I'm gonna match the old sand finish they did in the 60's.

 

I know a guy. You fly him out there and I promise you he'll make it look fucking perfect. The guy's honestly, one of the best drywallers I've ever worked with. He gets done mudding the place and there's no mud on the floor. Expensive but worth every penny