Bleeding brakes

So, having replaced both the front pads and rear shoes, and adjusting the shoes to scuff and then back off to free, I decided to bleed the brakes. I have a MityVac vacuum bleeder that I have used successfully for years. I pulled about 1 1/2 Oz of fluid from the right rear and got clear fluid, topped of the reservoir and moved to the left rear. I started pulling LOTs of air, pulled 3 Oz of fluid and the bubbles never stop. I've got a tight seal on the bleeder and can only believe I am sucking air around the bleeder threads. Any thoughts? I'd like to solve this before I move to the front.

 

The flow from the rear bleeders is slower than the mityvac, so it comes out in staggered flow, looks like air but its not.

Air has to be induced, if you had air you would have noticed before the bleed.

So unless you ran the master low, or cracked any of the lines, its fine.

 

air gets past threads.

the tool is pressure bleeder.

 

Figured. Thanks.

 

Pressure bleeder on the way. Thanks.

 

Which bleeder did you go with?

 

FWIW, I've been using the Motive Power Bleeder for about 20 years and it has never failed me.

$73 Motive Products 0101 Universal Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Round Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1
I always rinse it out after use.

I just used it on my '06 when replacing my flexible brake lines with braided stainless steel flexible lines and it worked flawlessly.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/stainless-steel-flexible-brake-lines.813273/

The adapter that goes on top of the master cylinder makes a leak-proof seal with the small chain links tightened down. Adjust the air pressure to about 15 psi, keep an eye on the brake fluid level as you are bleeding each caliper and you're good to go. Don't let the master cylinder run dry or you may have to deal with air in the ABS.

 

Speed bleeders.

 

Welcome to Speed Bleeder Products - One Person Brake Bleeding System (3dcartstores.com)
Rear = SB1010
Front = SB7100

 

motive is what dealerships, independent specialists, and DIYers use

dealers also usually have at least one factory pressure bleeder that does the same thing, electric or compressed air power for constant unlimited pressure automatically

required as minimum tooling by the manufacturer to be allowed dealer license

but they can break and are expensive
so if a shop has 30 techs and one $1000 broken machine

everyone ends up buying a Motive to have as backup, if the dealer doesn’t buy them
$60 much cheaper than $1000+
or if another guy is busy using the machine when you need it

there may be other adapters that fit 2G but one is

$71 Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota

Power Probe BA10

 

I have a motive pressure bleeder but heard negative reviews on the master cylinder cap not creating an adequate seal, good to hear you have positive experiences with yours. so I made my own cap and tested the pressure, which is all good. I never used it yet.

 

If you think you are sucking air through the threads of the bleeder pull the bleeder and wrap the threads in teflon tape. This will seal the threads and also protect them from rusting fast.

 

SMotive Pro, used off Amazon, and a 43mm clamp-on cap from the same vendor. The cap had already arrived and passed a test fit.

 

I realize its not a popular choice here, but I paid a local shop about $ 85 to flush and bleed the brakes. They had the "special" ABS bleed unit and it just seemed like the easiest route to follow. I changed out the front pads/rotors myself at 90k and had the flush/bleed done after that.

 

I totally understand, and even being a DIY kind of guy, I sometimes take my car or truck into the dealer, whether it's something I'm not currently tooled up for, or, if I just don't feel like subjecting myself to the hassle of doing my own work on a particular day.

 

I've considered that.

 

Same. Used it for years, replaced the hose once as it was degrading (due to age). Motive sent me new one for free. No problems with the cap. I never put fluid in it, just used it to pressurize the system, adding fluid to the reservoir as needed.

 

Last brake job I installed SpeedBleeders. Takes a little time, but single handed bleed job. Simple, inexpensive, can bleed brakes anywhere.

 

or anti sieze and noting K factor regarding torque in future

 

Well, got the Smotive pressure bleeder and cap out today and finished the bleeding. Got just a little bit from the driver's rear. Then got to the driver's front and got about a cc of solid air out. Now, the only pedal softness comes from the 20 year-old brake hoses. I'm not running 100+ mph on a track so I can live with that as long as they don't explode. Overall, I've put about $600 into redoing the brakes and probably couldn't beat that at any service shop.