Unsolvable electrical problem with window

First time poster and fairly new Tacoma owner, I drive a 2012 TRD Sport DoubleCab. A few months ago my rear passenger window was working on and off and being real finicky until one day I rolled it all the way down and the window never rolled up again. Since then, I've replaced and tested with a new master window switch at the driver side, the window switch at the rear passenger door, the entire window motor assembly, and the window has not budged. Every time I try, the 20A fuse blows, no matter what parts I try and how many fuses I use, that windows fuse keeps blowing. I'm completely lost as what to do next, and I was wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem or knows how to fix it. This is driving me nuts, thank you in advance.

 

A repeat fuse blowing means you've got a hot wire shorting onto another wire or rubbing against ground somewhere. No easy answers here, you're going to have to dig through the wiring and find the damaged wire. Check the flexible sections at the door jambs where the wiring jumps from the door to the pillar

 

Is there a limit switch out of alignment? Maybe the regulator is seized and causing the motor to draw too much current?

Just guessing but the mechanism isn’t complicated so worth a guess. That would drive me nuts too.

 

That's what I'll do next, was really hoping I wouldn't have to mess w that wiring harness.

 

I thought it would be something similar which is why I bought an entirely new motor and regulator. Even when testing on that, fuse still pops.

 

The other suggestion is a better path anyway, sounds more well-informed than my wild guess haha. Sometimes saying to yourself “this is an electrical problem” blinds you to the possibility of anything else so I thought I’d just make the suggestion. Good luck chasing down that short, I hope it’s obvious!

 

I would start at the door with the problematic window, pull the shield at the door opening and inspect the wiring any place it bends or moves with the movement of the door. Static wiring lasts far longer [sans mice and such] then wiring that has to flex.

 

Does the fuse blow with both the master switch and the door switch? Or just one of them?

 

This probably.

If you haven’t already, get a whole bunch of fuses. Or consider the resetable fuse thing, I considered buying them but they’re kinda expensive.

You might be able to find the offending wire, cut & splice in a new wire to run along next to it instead of trying to find the exact spot where it’s bad. Ive done that before with good results. Actually finding the bad wire is the hard part, be patient. I’ll bet it’s something like instead of putting power to the motor, it’s shorting to ground where a wire has worn insulation.

Perhaps someone will post up the wire diagram, if it has the wire colors thats gonna be a big help.

 

Just to be clear it's the P RR P/W Fuse that's blowing?

Does it blow only when you hit the switch or as soon as you turn the key on?

 

thank you!

 

going to do this, you're totally right, thank you

 

both, whenever I hit both the master and the door the fuse blows

 

ive already bought a bulk pack of 20A fuses haha. I really do hope its a simple find especially with the diagram.

 

thank you for including the diagram, also yes that's the one that's blowing. It goes only when I hit the switch.

 

The same fuse blows when you hit the switch at the driver's door?

 

yes, both the switch at the drivers door and the rear passenger switch

 

Now that's very interesting, that fuse only provides power to the switch at the right rear door. The master (driver's door) switch is powered by the D FR PW Fuse (30A).

Does it blow both directions, only up, only down?

What about if you unplug the right rear window switch?