Turbo BS Thread

Alright, my first time pulling an engine apart and rebuilding. Were the darker ports running rich? Anything that can be done to improve consistency?



If I'm wanting to hit 300hp any head work you guys would do? Cams, valve springs ect? Or will stock everything do just fine with a standalone and more boost?

Edit: Really after torque over horsepower if it makes a difference.

 

I’d have the head refreshed at least with new seals and valves. All guides even if just one needs changing. As for valve choices, I’d go OEMish quality but can’t go wrong with some iconnel exhaust if you really wanted to turn up the boost later.

 

If the budget affords it.

 

True. Finding a shop is the hard part for me. Had to travel 40 miles two towns over to find one that’d redo my VW head.

 

3rz heads are pretty stout from what I've seen. Unless you wanna up the redline, should be capable of 300hp as is I think. I've seen a couple other builds online of guys pushing I think an alleged 350+ on a basically stock motor.
Maybe just a resurface and get the valve seats checked at a minimum

 

Probably would have been better to do a leak down test before pulling the head. I had my valves done back in 2015. They are know to leak after you get some age on the truck and not checking the clearance. No normal tacoma driver checks the valves every 30k. Big torque I would do the con rods and pistons. Leave the cam stock if you like low end power. Maybe a stage 1 LCE cam if you have 900 burning to be pissed away, but there are better ways to spend money than cams and head work. The head I would leave near stock. Maybe some upgraded springs and valves to prevent future valve float if you want more boost down the road. Anything more and all your power will be above 4k rpms to redline.

Stock motor can do 300hp.
Big torque: pistons, rods, stock size upgraded valves and springs, metal head gasket, and head studs. Angry Transmission and Driveline.

 

Valves and valve seats look to be in good shape. Was planning to lap them. Thinking about doing a port job to clean things up a bit. Mostly getting rid of casting flaws. Sounds like head studs and MLS gasket are all I need.

 

Well cylinder head is trash. Cylinder 2 & 3

Pretty sure this is where the leak into cylinder 1 was coming from.

 

Pretty normal for a 3RZ head unfortunately, not very strong in between the valves and plug. Mine cracked in the same spot.

Sidetracking a bit, and guys here want to weigh in on this?

 

Well your engine is new. How many miles does that oil have on it from break-in?

 

Now you know at least. Sorry to see though.

 

It's not a new build. It just had the turbo stuff put on it. And I resealed the engine while I had the oil pan off to weld in the turbo return and I did valve covers and the rear main at the same time. This sample is from the second change of oil since I installed all that. I did it shorter break in run with some Costco full synthetic 5W30 before this oil.

 

Ah ok.

 

If it's any help for comparison sake, here's my last analysis after doing the HT & turning up the boost

 

I'm just now due for another oil change anyway, did a 3400mi trip. So we will see if anything has changed. I will also take the sample after the ol girl has warmed up this time.

 

The higher numbers mostly don't scare me much on an engine pushing limits over stock. It's the lead that is the only real concern on mine since it can really only come from one place.

 

I am quite curious to compare your next sample. The more data the better.

 

Ah. Yea bearings aren't a good sign.
Def just run it for another cycle and see where the trend points

 

Blow by from race fuel?

I'm about 3k miles with the turbo too so I wonder what would show up in mine

Also wasn't expecting you to be using 5w30

 

I've just been running regular 92/93 octane, no leaded fuel that I'm aware of. It's possible when I was doing the valve cover gaskets I got some sort of contamination in there but I don't think so. I don't put anything together dry unless it's absolutely required but I'm pretty sure my assembly lube doesn't have any lead in it.

I am running a pretty severe spec of 5W30. Clearly it's not 5W-30 either they said it has more viscosity than it should. It's the same stuff I used to run in my turbo BMW that's supposed to help inhibit knock as well by reducing hot spots. I probably will change it on this next run. I might go for some rotella t6. But there's also a 5W-40 version of this oil too but I was kind of shocked to see how low the molybdenum is in it so it's got me considering other options