Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

I was finally able to install C7 JL Audio tweeters and the mighty C7 6.5 woofers together.
The combination of these same series speakers is definitely superior and for once I lost the compass of where the sound was coming from
The 4 speakers (tweeters and mids) acted as one and I could only enjoy the music and was simply immersed in the songs I listened to.
I yet have to get them professionally tuned since I’ve only tuned them by ear the TW3 12 inch sub and the C7 JL Audio are definitely worth the investment. I listened for about one hour after finished installing them and didn’t wanted to leave my truck.
I’m looking forward to long rides of pure musical enjoyment!! Yeah I sound like a little kid but these speaker truly let you enjoy what you listen to.

 

Clean build man! I do want to advise you to get rid of those MDF adapters you made. I did the same exact thing for my speakers and even went as far as wrapping all of them in kilmat deadener and foam. Within a few months, the little bit of moisture that was able to get into my door made all of them fall apart. All the adapter mounting bolts and even the speaker mounting screws FELL OUT! My speakers were just laying in the door panel cavity with broken bits of the adapters everywhere. I got very lucky that none of them got damaged, but I don’t want to see the same thing happen to you.

I picked up these awesome ABS adapters from soundsgoodstereo and they are amazing quality. They are also the only company that I found that makes adapters for 8 inch speakers.

better to bite the bullet and spend some money on good adapters than ruin a set of nice speakers!

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...select-toyota-vehicles?variant=42122819240148

 

Those are cool, wish they had them for the rear doors. Next time I open mine up I'll swap to the 6x9 frog's I have waiting around.

I'm running 1/2" birch ply from Marv, with some black spray paint for now. Better than MDF in terms of moisture but not as good as HDPE. Those kits look nice, wonder if it's worth asking them for dc rear door adapters...

 

My memory may be escaping me, but I want to say they had rears listed last year when I bought mine. They had excellent customer service when I inquired about speaker depth fitment so I’m sure that they can mock up some rear ones for you.

I may have to get in on the rears too because I decided to stick with the garbage metra adapters for the time being.

 

Cool, thanks, I sent an inquiry about 3rd gen rears and maybe even first gen tundra fronts (don't see that as an option). Nice stuff, thanks so much for the link, didn't know about these guys.

 

Man thanks for the info and the link, I actually have been looking locally for a local shop that could make me a set like that
Unfortunately the few that I picked call it custom work and wanted an arm and a leg for them thanks for the link I’m definitely ordering these next

 

Anyone have the Rear wall trim with the compartment they are not using to sell?? I have a 23 OR with the JBL and swapping it out.

 

2 shallow mount 12s wired to 1 ohm running on rockford punch 500x1. Tight fit but got 1.4 cuft per side ported. Clean and deep.

 

Sweet setup, wish I knew how to read a tape measure.

 

Skar audio vd10” 800w in a custom box by me.

 

I bought the Kicker w/ enclosure that I've seen discussed a few times.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...ubwoofer-black-carpet/5712388.p?skuId=5712388

The specs should match fairly well with the amp that I have, and that price is hard to pass up (under $100). I tried to talk them down on an open box one that was in the store, but for only a $5 difference....seemed like a logical decision to buy the one that hasn't been touched by anyone else.

Also, noticed they had some pretty good amp deals in store...kind of wish I had waited to buy an amp!

 

Can you share the dimensions for this box? Especially the back.

 

@oldtoyman could you share the dimensions on this box? I have a SA 10" and I'm having trouble figuring out how I should build a slightly bigger box while also porting the box, and this looks like it may be a good solution.

 

of note, he's got a 2nd gen, you have a 3rd gen. specifically, the difference is that you have a rear power window motor that really mucks up the airspace volume.

the back of my box ended up looking like this.



the majority of the upper cutouts is to avoid the power window motor and cable connecting assemblies. the 2 large vertical cutouts are specifically to maintain access to the child restraint tiedowns i wasn't willing to cut out for safety reasons, though a large part of those were required to avoid stressing the window cable, they entered horizontally into the center motor(the angled central cutout). the lower step, there's a crossmember at that level that requires the depth adjustment.

i can dig in my notes to locate overall dimensions, but i never dimensioned out the rear cutouts-- i pieced it together one obstruction at a time. i was disappointed in the final result, but i can't make it fit any tighter while still using MDF. i'd need to resort to a custom fiberglass enclosure to get any larger internal dimensions.

i want to say the box was 32" wide overall with 34" feasible if you're willing to irreversibly cut up the passenger c-pillar plastics. 8.5" deep, though many boxes run 6.5", as 8.5" depth runs the risk of the sub(depending on model) striking the seatback plastics-- i was willing to cut/modify the seatback to get the airspace i needed.

 

Trust me this box isn’t perfect. Best thing to do is build one similar design but add space where you can. I think this box is a bit small for this sub. Might be better suited for an 8”.I sacrificed a little space so I could hide the rear battery but didn’t want it too tall.

 

Fair enough. I'm trying to fit about 1 cu.ft. in between the rear seats while ported. Biggest hurdle I can see is fitting a port in the back w/o the port being obstructed. I thought about pointing it in the same direction with some round ports for ease. I'm also trying to keep it concealed so thieves aren't tempted so there's that. Great build btw!

 

A

with the sub facing the driver side and the port pointing forward seems to be a great sounding direction for the driver.
I built mine out of cardboard first then figured out about how much space I had then built the port. I think my port volume is a bit big. I may try putting something in the port to make it smaller and or put some fluff in the box to make it seem bigger.

 

Looks like some great work! I was afraid you would mention the good ol fashion CAD for this so I guess I'll dive in and do the same. Thanks for the advice! I built a ported box for 2 12s before but that was years ago. Guess I gotta get back to doing a little bit of math. Thanks again for the response!

 

Any pics of the box installed?