3rd Gen Manual Transmission

A data point is a data point. Chime in as you like. OP was looking for reliability information and you provided!

 

One thing I'll say is that when it's cold, the clutch sucks to shift. Apparently that issue is because of the accumulator, which there's plenty of writeups on here on getting rid of that

 

Cold performance is same before and after accumulator. The clutch is slow to come back up in the cold, that is for sure.

 

Use low viscosity brake fluid.

 

What ratio did you go with on the re-gear?
What are your thoughts on the outcome?

What will the RC60F get you? (Is this the latest Hilux version?)

I would have kept the 2lo mod... because of the removal effort and well, 2wd low.

I am curious on the re-gear... but I do not think the benefit is worth the price. (at least now...)
These are like $3k, right?

I've heard about this - I can say that I've not experienced any cold issues with the clutch during Tahoe winters - I have noticed no impact at all...
But my cold has been likely no lower than 20F.

 

5.29. I have 255/75R17 (32.1”) and I love it. It’s not for everyone, I’m around 2850 at 70. Highway mpg is 17-18 at 70-75, which for me was about same as stock. It is noisier than stock, but harmless noise. The transmission makes a slight whistle when spinning this fast. It’s harmless, 21K miles later nothing has changed.

RC60F would get me a lower 1-2-3-R and a taller 5-6, so lower rpm highway cruising and even more torque in the 4 lower gears. Same 4th as now and 5th and 6th less torque but lower rpm.

I could have kept 2WD low but I never had a use for it, and since it technically adds a potential fail point, I decided to just remove it. I never had any problems, but I did see 2 people who did have problems (probably needed to replace the relay). That is obviously a super low failure rate and I wouldn’t ever tell others to avoid it, its a good mod, I just didn’t feel I needed it enough to justify keeping it. So off it went.

1st will be very low when I’m done. I’ll probably start in 2nd more often, but we’ll see. Lower 3rd will be nice and so will reverse. Bringing down the rpm in 6th is cool too though I’m also happy with where it’s at. High 2000s rpm at 70-75 has plenty of power for medium hills.

Regear was around $3K. I did Revolution gears and mini kits, OEM seals, bearings, locker connector. Torco 85W-140.

 

deleting accumulator is a common mod. Old cars do not have them.

not sure why it’s even there. The system is hydraulic, not mechanical 1980’s.

brake fluid quality varies. Some are low viscosity.
I run regular but might try Pentosin DOT4 LV.

 

I’ve only had my truck since May 2022, so one winter so far. I did the accumulator delete in June 2022, and I think I used Wagner 5.1 but I don’t really remember. That may have contributed. I noticed slow pedal anywhere from around 30° down to the lowest I saw which was I believe 10°.

Haven’t noticed anything yet this year but we’ve only been down to 35° so far and I also did swap to the FJ metal pedal this year. Also, during the pedal swap, I used more brake fluid and I don’t remember what I used there but I think it was Dot 3. So…the reason it hasn’t been slow yet could be temps not cold enough yet, the new pedal, differences in fluids, or some combo of the 3. Time will tell.

All that said, when it was slow, it was only that way for about 2 minutes. Surrounding heat warms up the clutch line pretty dang quick.

 

The last manual transmission I had was a 1993 Isuzu Rodeo…

The question OP asked was how long the 3G manual transmission lasts before maintenance is required…durability of the transmission.

It all depends on how owner treats/utilizes the clutch.

Treat the tranny like crap and it will probably need work before expected.

All this other info & dialogue is interesting though…

 

I’ve started giving the clutch a couple pumps before setting off in the cold. It’s helped.

 

I have that same transmission jack, that thing sure is handy!

 

Mines stock. No issues. It’s not the smoothest I have ever driven but nothing wrong. I just think instead of all these Mods maybe just get used to it . I see on forums a lot of people complain about them. I like mine and its quirks

 

It did a great job.

 

Well that was a totally worthless 4 pages.

 

ADM is free dude. Take it out and Dremel a channel in it. Pretty simple mod that made a big difference on my truck, but I'm a heavy duty mechanic and I like to tinker with stuff. I wasn't interested in getting used to the clutch slipping.

 

2018, at 50k miles. Trouble free. 2low mod is great, and I have the Core shifter. Wouldn't have it any other way.

 

The core shifter is my favorite mod. Absolutely love it.

 

Is it not notchy? Every short throw I’ve ever used has been notchy, which is exactly why I didn’t get one for this truck. That and the noise complaints. I would be interested to try one. I did try a friend’s B&M and I was not a fan, but I think some of the screws in it are loose, causing it to not feel or shift right.

 

It's notchy in the best way possible, it's very tight no play at all. Notchy is a good thing, I never accidentally put it in reverse anymore. I didn't install the stock bolts that mount the shaft to the stub I got longer ones with locknuts. I really don't get the noise complaints it barely makes any noise. My opinion on that is the guys complaining about noise shouldn't have it.

One of my favorite things about it is how much it repositions the shifter towards the driver. When I'm in 6th now it's in a similar position to 4th with the stock shifter. The stock shifter is floppy garbage.

 

Is it notchy, compared to stock? Sure. There is no ambiguity as to what gear you have. I prefer the rifle bolt feel, which I get may not be for all. As the shifter is directly attached to the trans there is gear whine which comes through, the divorced shifter in my 07 mustang was quieter but was just as precise. Longer bolts and some insulating material reduces the sound transmitted, I didn't go that route. I really like it and consider it a good upgrade moving the shifter towards the driver and making the throws shorter (I do have to slow down my shifting when in low, it will make the shift - but with some clunks as it moves faster than the synchros can do their thing).