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And you've driven it since doing this?

 

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You or a helper should keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run dry while bleeding the system. Those mighty vacs won't bleed the system very fast, so running the reservoir dry shouldn't be an issue if you're paying attention.

Some of those mighty vac systems don't seal the best and some resort to having a friend pump the pedal as another opens and closes the bleed screw on the caliper.

Motive Brake Systems makes a container that holds brake fluid, connects to the reservoir and allows the user to pump up the system to 12-14psi. As you open the bleed screws the motive bleeder will automatically introduce fresh fluid into the reservoir.

I use a turkey baster to suck the fluid from the master cylinder, then refill the master cylinder and then use the motive to bleed the system starting with the brake caliper furtherest away from the master cylinder and working back towards the front of the vehicle.

 

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Turkey baster is just for emptying the reservoir quickly. It might be more cost effective to have a shop bleed the system for you.

 

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100% motiv power bleeder with this adaptor:

$37 SMOTIVEPRO 43mm Master Cylinder Bleeder Adapter Compatible with Toyota and Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SPCSGP9?ie=UTF8&th=1

Might need some odds and ends to hook up that adaptor.

It'll be the best brake bleeding experience of your life.

 

Did you just top off the master with the wrong fluid?

Have you driven the truck with the PS fluid in the system?

You really don't want to push the PS fluid through all of your brake components.

 

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Remove all fluid from the reservoir.

Then fit a tygon hose to the right rear bleed nipple.
Force clean fluid in through the cracked bleed nipple until clean fluid fills the reservoir.
Then with clean fluid ONLY in the res, bleed the other three corners until the fluid flows clean. Bleed the system again after a few thousand (or hundred) miles.

Petroleum will swell the seals and rubber parts in a brake system. Bad things happen then.

 

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I have heard of people taking a new bottle of brake fluid, poking a hole in the seal on the bottle then carefully flipping the bottle upside down onto the reservoir. That way you can start bleeding your brakes and whenever the fluid level is low enough to let air into the bottle, fluid can flow out into the reservoir. When fluid level rises enough to prevent air going into the bottle, the fluid will stop coming out. Obviously you need to make sure not to knock the bottle over or run the bottle and master cylinder dry.

 

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No movement of the brake pedal is required to flush the system/

The master cylinder ports are open when released. Gravity will drain the reservoir if any bleeders are left opened. Gravity bleed is a useful way to fill an empty brake system. Takes time though.

Get the mineral oil out sooner than later, don't wait for your equipment to show up.
Paper towels will soak up the fluid if you work at it.

 

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100% pass on the vacuum tool. Get the Motiv, the adaptor, and make yourself a catch can (1/4 tube to a large water bottle).

You're doing extra work by "pulling" fluid to each bleeder valve. With the Motiv system, you add a bunch of fluid to the tank, pressurize it to 12-15psi, then crack the bleeder screws and catch the output. You don't have to worry about the MC getting low, cause the motiv pushes into new fluid. You can flush out the whole* system in 10-15 minutes by yourself.

I say whole* because if you have ABS there is not a great way to bleed that- and you'll be looking at doing a few flushes over the next few weeks to completely remove the PS fluid.

Honestly- now that I had this setup, my savvy friends with Toyotas swing by to flush their brake systems using my kit. Had a buddy do that last month on their lunch break. If you were in SD I would extend an invite to come over and have at it.

 

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I've been considering one of these kits for some time now, along with the appropriate caps for the 3 different brand vehicles I own.
https://www.speedibleed.com/