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Long Travel information.

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by mjp2, Oct 13, 2009.

  1. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:00 PM
    #121
    amaes

    amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

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    Depends on the kit. I know My tc one uses Stock numbers.
     
  2. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:03 PM
    #122
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Im getting Camburgs. I was thinking that but wasnt sure. I think TC and Camburg are pretty much the same but anyone with Camburg verify on the angles?
     
  3. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:05 PM
    #123
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    BTW I ordered my Kings from Downsouth yesterday and I am a believer. You guys were all correct. If you want Kings then Downsouth Motorsports is the way to go!!
     
  4. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:09 PM
    #124
    amaes

    amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

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    mjp2 runs it on his 2nd gen so he will know.

    and thats awesome dude. Once you are all set up Hit me up. Im in AZ also and you can come hang with me and a buddy since we all are LT'd
     
  5. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:11 PM
    #125
    Single6

    Single6 Active Member

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    Chris
    Pacific Palisades, California
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    2006 Tacoma 4x4 Front & Rear Long-Travel
    DMZ Custom Build - Front: Total Chaos Long-Travel (13.5") Suspension, TC Extended Axles, Reinforced Spindles & Alignment Cam Tabs, Limit Straps, SS Brake Lines, TC Specification 8x2.5 King Coilovers/Springs, Secondary Gusseted Shock Hoops, TC Specification 8x2.5 King 3-Tube Bypass Remote Reservoir Shocks, Reinforced Motor Mounts, Pre-Runner Bumper & Front/Under-Engine Skid Plates, SS Radiator Guards, Aux. Lighting/Breaker Panel/Wiring, VisionX HID 8.7" Round 50w. Lamps, VisionX Reflex 9" LEDs, OEM HID Headlight Conversion, Glassworks Fiberglass Fenders, DMZ Stealth Antenna, DMZ Custom Build - Rear: Custom Spring-Under Conversion & Perimeter Bed/Shock Cage (16" travel), DMZ Spec. Deaver LT Springs, Plated & Boxed Rear Frame, King 16x2.5 4-Tube Piggy-Back Reservoir Bypass Shocks, 2x2 King Bump Stops, Bed Shock Shields, Limit Straps, SS Brake Lines, Glassworks Fiberglass Bedsides, Aluminum Billet Wheel Spacers, Allied 16x8 Forged Monster Wheels, OMF Beadlock Conversion, Integrated TPMS
    I used a very experienced alignment shop (Bagge & Sons, Culver City, CA). For the initial set-up, we relied on the factory alignment settings. After driving it for several weeks, I concluded that on initial turn-in the steering would become progressive and the truck wanted to turn in more (positive non-linear steering affect). Off-road it was not a perceptable problem, but on the highway and at higher speeds, the steering had no on-center feel and was too sensitive. The truck tended to wander which is very tiresome on long drives. We adjusted the settings for more negative camber, and that largely resolved the issue. Notwithstanding, the steering on a LT front suspension will typically require some learning and adaptation by the driver on all surfaces.

    Regards,

    Chris
     
  6. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:23 PM
    #126
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    I am 100% down but I have to wait about another month to order the actual kit and Ill only be LT in the front. For now.... :)

    And thank you Chris that is good info
     
  7. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:29 PM
    #127
    mjp2

    mjp2 [OP] Living vicariously through myself Moderator

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    Current: '21 Bronco Badlands. Previous: '06 TRD Access Cab, v6, 6-speed
    You can get it to the factory specs on the 2nd gen trucks but it felt like I had a fair amount of oversteer at speed. I chopped the UCAs 1/4" shorter for more negative camber and welded in heims in place of the poly bushings and it corrected that problem.

    :)

    Same experience, and you described the situation far better than I could. :thumbsup:
     
  8. Jan 7, 2011 at 12:30 PM
    #128
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Camburg. Thats why I had PM'd you. I havent seen many Camburg kits on the 1st gens on here
     
  9. Jan 26, 2011 at 12:02 PM
    #129
    87xjmike

    87xjmike Well-Known Member

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    Has anybody played around with the chevy 63" main leaf over the axle for a high speed set up? By playing around i mean attempt to dail in by adding/removing leaves, playing with shackle lengths and angles combo'd with a shock hoop and properly valved resi shock... I know over the axle is far from ideal for speed but chevy leaves don't have enough arc to go under and i'm looking for a cheap leaf pack for the interim.

    I know everybody is going to say just fork over the money for a full pack but i'm not financially ready yet and plan on building a hoop soon and getting some resi shocks first.

    I have a 98 single cab 2wd, with a downey mid travel front end and add a leaf/shackle in the back. Rear end isn't cutting it and i need longer leafs. Not trying to compete, just looking to tune better for a fun beater.
     
  10. Jan 26, 2011 at 12:42 PM
    #130
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    You need to get the correct springs before you make a bed cage. Your going to end up changing the location of the mounts for the shocks if you change the travel of your springs
     
  11. Jan 26, 2011 at 12:53 PM
    #131
    87xjmike

    87xjmike Well-Known Member

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    yes i'm aware of that, i may have explained that wrong. I'm hoping to run chevy leaves with a long shackle, a hoop w/ some nice 2.5" resi shocks valved accordingly. Has anybody ran anything close to this and found it handled good in the whoops? Or doesn everybody around here fork over the money for a lt spring under leaf pack?
     
  12. Feb 2, 2011 at 8:37 AM
    #132
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 Well-Known Member

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    Do you still have the exact settings for alignment? This probably has been one of my major gripes after going LT, with more bump steer. How far negative is the camber, uneven tire wear is my worry.

    Its been a couple years w/ LT and im used to it already, but if it can be remedied Im willing to pay.
    thanks
     
  13. Mar 28, 2011 at 3:12 PM
    #133
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    x2, IIRC caster adjusts the center of steering feel...the more positive caster, the more the steering wants to return to center position, the more negative caster, like a shopping cart wheel, the more the steering wants to flop around. Negative camber will give you better handling during turns like how BMWs come from factory.
     
  14. Mar 28, 2011 at 3:26 PM
    #134
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    I just aligned mine today if guy above still needs numbers. Dude at the shop was telling me that the caster can also affect pull. It will pull to the side with less caster
     
  15. Mar 28, 2011 at 3:39 PM
    #135
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    wat is your current caster compared to stock? more negative or positive?
     
  16. Mar 28, 2011 at 7:52 PM
    #136
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    More positive. Into the red but Im maxed out so oh well. I agree that alignment is overrated. Its closer than I did by eye and drives ok on road. But off road road is so much better and thats all I care :D
     
  17. Mar 29, 2011 at 7:54 AM
    #137
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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  18. Mar 29, 2011 at 9:17 AM
    #138
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    if you went more into the red, arent you more negative for caster?
     
  19. Mar 29, 2011 at 9:42 AM
    #139
    Single6

    Single6 Active Member

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    2006 Tacoma 4x4 Front & Rear Long-Travel
    DMZ Custom Build - Front: Total Chaos Long-Travel (13.5") Suspension, TC Extended Axles, Reinforced Spindles & Alignment Cam Tabs, Limit Straps, SS Brake Lines, TC Specification 8x2.5 King Coilovers/Springs, Secondary Gusseted Shock Hoops, TC Specification 8x2.5 King 3-Tube Bypass Remote Reservoir Shocks, Reinforced Motor Mounts, Pre-Runner Bumper & Front/Under-Engine Skid Plates, SS Radiator Guards, Aux. Lighting/Breaker Panel/Wiring, VisionX HID 8.7" Round 50w. Lamps, VisionX Reflex 9" LEDs, OEM HID Headlight Conversion, Glassworks Fiberglass Fenders, DMZ Stealth Antenna, DMZ Custom Build - Rear: Custom Spring-Under Conversion & Perimeter Bed/Shock Cage (16" travel), DMZ Spec. Deaver LT Springs, Plated & Boxed Rear Frame, King 16x2.5 4-Tube Piggy-Back Reservoir Bypass Shocks, 2x2 King Bump Stops, Bed Shock Shields, Limit Straps, SS Brake Lines, Glassworks Fiberglass Bedsides, Aluminum Billet Wheel Spacers, Allied 16x8 Forged Monster Wheels, OMF Beadlock Conversion, Integrated TPMS
    Blackhawke88:

    Here are my settings, but be forewarned every truck is a little different.
    Left Camber: -0.6
    Left Caster: 3.7
    Left Toe: 0.12
    Left SAI: 12.2
    Left Included Angle 11.6
    Right Camber: -0.5
    Right Caster: 4.5
    Right Toe: 0.11
    Right SAI 12.8
    Right Included Angle: 12.3
    All of the above are in degrees.
    My truck has no lift. The only ride height increase is from the Long Travel mods.

    Good luck with it,

    Single6
     
  20. Mar 29, 2011 at 9:45 AM
    #140
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    IDK, I was looking at the actual numbers. The camber shows a negative sign so I figured that meant the caster was positive since there is not a negative sign. If you look at the numbers on the side of the actual measurements it shows usable range. I am larger than usable range so I thought that means more positive. Maybe I am wrong?
     

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