275/70/17 with 2in. Lift advice

How'd you fit that awesome light bar where you did? Did you have to source a aftermarket bezel?

 

Just waiting to flatten down my pinch welds and powder coat my sliders…currently 285/70s (w/ RRWs -12)and was thinking to go 285/75 Geolandars, but those 295 Geolandars look good

 

Hello,
I’m currently running 265/70r17 with -12 offset wheels and 2” lift. I am looking to upgrade to 275 do I need to do some minor trimming in the rear fender to clear the rubbing issue and good alignment as well? Thank you

 

lots of kits online from caliraisedLED and others. Easy installation. Just two brackets and cutting some plastic from the air channel pieces, and wiring it up.

https://caliraisedled.com/products/...ower-bumper-flush-slim-light-bar-brackets-kit

 

The crappy thing about 275 70 17 is that there are not as many options for tires, and most of them will be load range e. If you're looking for that then its fine, but i was looking for the lightest tire i could find in a load range c and found ko2's in a load c size 285 was one of the lightest tires in that size. As far as fitting a 285 vs 275, your alignment is gonna play a huge factor. You'll see some people fit with little to no trimming, other's had to go full cmc.

 

Yes, I’ve tried 285 it was rubbing like crazy even tho I trimmed a lot near rear fender, I dropped it down to 265, now I’m just wondering since I trimmed a lot can I fit the 275? I’m stuck at the moment whether should I risk to go with 275 or stick with 265

 

Look into Westcott Designs they seem to make a fantastic product for fitting 285’s

 

1.5” front lift and 275s, no rubbing. Clearing 275s really depends on your wheels**

 

Is it because of the KO2?

 

I have Toyo AT3s. KO2s typically run smaller than other tires of the same size. So if you’re worried about tire fitment, the KO2s will typically be a safer bet for not rubbing since they are smaller. And sorry, I meant clearing 275s typically depend on your wheels**

 

I got -12 offset wheels, I can do cmc no problem

 

With that offset, you may not need a cmc. I have 17x8.5 with 0 offset and they fit without the cmc, the 17x9 version of the same wheels have a -12 so you’re probably good.

 

I have a 2023 DCSB TRD Sport and I am scheduled near the end of January to get a 2 inch front (Bilstein 5100s)/ 1 inch rear (Bilstein 5100s and block) lift kit installed. I went with 275/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires and 17x8.5 KMC wheels with 0 offset. My only concern is rubbing and wheel well space. I dont want the tires to look like they’re right against the wheel well. Any pictures of this same set up would be appreciated. Thanks yall.

 

275 70 17 KO2s on Vision Manx II 17x9 +12mm offset. Only rub is at full lock and full stuff and it is minor, just the plastic inner fender and full stuff rarely as I am on OME 2886 heavies that were part of the 2.5 Heavy lift. SPC UCAs.

Take a look at Tinkerer’s Adventure on YouTube to understand Toyota IFS. He explains it better than I could ever. Also, people here have their opinions on caster angle. I run as close as my alignment guy can get to 4 degrees which has served me well for 20k + miles. You will also want to instruct your alignment guy to max out the LCA adjuster so it is fully forward before he adjusts the UCA adjuster. That will get your tire and wheel as far forward as it can go to clear the cab mount.

 

My awesome 33" pizza cutter setup is the shits! Love it!!!

2" Bilstein 5100 lift, 255/80/17 Wildpeaks. No cmc, no cutting, no molding, no need to remove my oem mudflaps.

No power loss, higher clearance under the 2 pumpkins....

 

I have the same set up, 5100s on the top setting, 1/4 shim on the driver's front, 1 in rear block, front diff and rear carrier drop, 285/70/17s Toyo AT3 and no issues, no trimming and a great alignment. I even run the factory mud guards but did open the bottom hole out some and was able to move them back a 1/2 in or more. The wheels are the OEM 4R SEMA 17x7 with a +4 offset. Ride and drives great. I had the ECGS bushing done at the time of the install almost 4 years ago. I started out with 265s on the 4th setting then up to 285s on the top setting. I think it rides better on the 5th setting but could be the newer tread design on the Toyos. Also I added the SUMO bump stops front and rear which also helps the ride.

 

Could you elaborate a bit more or a picture on opening up the bottom hole on the mud guard? Interested to see what you actually did. Thanks, Happy New Years

 

It's the bottom bolt. I enlarged the hole so it would slide back. No pics at the present time but looking up from the bottom of the guard you will see the only bolt. Pretty easy, used a small drill bit to cut the hole open more.

 

The minor rub you still had, is it the CM?

I’m searching all over to find all the info I can, as I am rubbing with my 275/70/17’s and just trying to be as calculated with my next moves as possible.

 

No. At full stuff and full lock it was the inner tire rubbing on the inner fender. I had +12mm offset wheels and I had my alignment tech adjust the LCA adjusters as far forward as they could go before he messed with the UCA adjusters. Doing that pushed the wheel as far forward (front to back) as they would go which helped the cab mount clearance. Never rubbed the cab mount.

Depending on your wheel offset your experience may differ because of the difference in arc from lock to lock. Negative offset will push more of the wheel toward the street which will increase your chance of hitting the cab mount. The mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true centerline of the wheel assembly on a negative offset wheel (aka "deep dish"). That may be working against you.