Question on new leaf springs

Hey guys, was hoping someone could help me out with some questions about leaf springs. I have a 2021 TRD Offroad DCLB and recently had a camper installed. As you would expect I've added a significant amount of weight to the bed, about 1,075 lbs in total. The scales report I'm now sitting at a total weight of 5,560 lbs and am sagging a bit in the back.

Tires are stock size 265/70/R16 KO2's. I measured the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel well and it looks like the front tires are about 6" from the wheel well and the rear maybe 4 and 5/8".

So what's the best way to bring my rear ride height back up to where it should be? The camper is going to stay on the truck full time so I think getting a new leaf pack would be the be the best way to go. I could also go with airbags but I don't think I will need the adjustability since I'm at a fairly constant weight. I'm thinking about a set of Deaver stage 3 expedition springs which are designed for a bed weight of 700 - 1000 lbs, but they also give a 2" lift in the rear. So my question is, if I install those will I raise the rear back up to something near stock height?
Or
will I then have a 2" rear lift and some rake since they are intended to support the additional weight? And is having a 2" lift in the rear and leaving the front suspension at stock height a really bad idea?
TIA for any replies.

 

You are smart to Skip the band aids and go full leaf pack for sure. It’s tough to say, I’d call them, as many leaf packs are intended to raise over stock height.
There’s a huge Icon thread w many folk’s personal examples, if you want to consider that brand.

 

Try Alcan Springs out of Colorado. They do custom work for what you want.
https://www.alcanspring.com/our-process

 

If I understand leaf spring “specs”, deaver is saying that the leafs will provide approximately 2” of lift above stock height if you have 700-1000 pounds of extra weight on the bed. So in your case of just over 1000 pounds, I would expect 0-1.5” over stock height (super rough estimate). If you want a better explanation, I suggest contacting them.

 

I have been super happy with my Deaver U402 Stage 3 leaf springs. Had them on over 5 years now. Originally for my AT Habitat. I was not looking for lift, and my ride height in the front is pretty much stock, and probably lower than stock now. If purchased, don't be surprised with your rear end being extra high at first, they settled in over the first couple months for me.

You might be able to get by with Stage 2... but I'm very glad my buddy talked me into Stage 3 as my truck has only gotten heavier over time, and I also tow a lot.

 

Spring settling is an urban legend AFAIK. I have not seen a single post claiming that springs settled that provided any measurements. I have 2 theories on why this perception is so often expressed.

1) people’s perception of increased ride height degrades over time. Once you have something, you want more
2) when you let a taco down off the jack, it will measure a higher ride height, but after you drive it around ~5m, it will measure lower. I’m guessing this is due to friction in the suspension joints and had little to do with springs.

 

1) They settle. This was day after install. My friend's raptor did the exact same thing. Rake was pretty silly for first couple months. My truck only looks like this now when I completely unload the bed.




2) Your explanation is only talking about the tire scrub of independent suspension, which for a Tacoma is only on the front end. The rear is not affected by this.

 

I don’t disbelieve you, but you need to provide measurements before and after rather than picture and subjective perception to convince me.

Leaf springs do have friction, both in the joints and between the leafs. Modern designs try to limit the inter-leaf friction, but I don’t think it’s eliminated entirely. CAVEAT: although I have measured the front height before and after jacking it off the ground, I have not done the same with the rear.

Also, there is plenty of published information about the behavior of steel and none of it that I have read suggests steel “settles” in a short period of time under normal conditions. Steel doesn’t change shape unless you stress it beyond its yield point, get it really hot, stress it dynamically for a very long time, or subject it to corrosion or other damage.

 

All I know is that it was over 10 inches between top of tire and fender well. I do not have my before measurement.

As for the friction thing: as our front suspension droops, the tires on the left and right side of the vehicle get closer together since the control arms move in an arc, not directly up and down. When lifted into the air, the front suspension goes to full droop. If you drop it on the ground, the tires' friction on the ground keep them from spreading apart. This is what keeps the suspension from moving. In the rear, this can't occur, unless perhaps you have your front wheels completely blocked and your parking brake is set when you lower the rear tires to the ground, otherwise the front tires (not effected by the parking brake) would simply roll forward to release any pressure. That's front to rear, vs the front suspension being wedged against left or right tire.

 

Excellent answers so far, thank you. I'm going to call Deaver and see what they recommend, if they say U402's I'm going with those. Good to know they will settle in after a few months, that's also something I was unsure about.

 

That makes sense. I hadn't considered the effect of camber changes after letting the truck down off jack.

I'm still skeptical about the claim that automative springs (coil or leaf) "settle" over reasonable amounts of time. I stake this thought both on my (limited) knowledge of the material properties of steel and on the fact that I've measured my hub to fender on a semi-regular basis over 3 years and not observed any ride height decrease over time. I've kept notes.

 

nice job on the frame coating!
Someone wants their steel to last more than a decade!

sorry, thread back on track

 

Update. I talked with a very knowledgeable guy at Deaver who told me right off the bat there is nothing on their website for my particular situation with 1000 lbs of added weight AND wanting to keep the ride height stock. I asked if the stage 3 U402 leaf packs would work and he said no, the rear end would sit 3" higher and if you haven't lifted the front as well that would be too high.
However, what they can do in this situation is make a custom set of leaf springs from an OEM leaf pack. They take your total added weight and then add additional leafs as required. So, that's pretty cool. I have a set on order and will post some pics when I get them installed.

 

Interested in the outcome on this. I have a DCSB and looking to install a Alu-Cab Canopy Camper and have been mulling over what I was going to for suspension. I am not really looking to go more than an inch in the rear and two inches up front.

I have been looking at the Deavers, read a couple of recommendations for Alcan and then also read some thoughts by Archive Garage with regards to different options and haven't really focused on any one solution.

 

airbags with Daystar cradles hands down.
Mine made a huge difference.

This will be easy and make for a nice ride. Plus you can also upgrade your leaf pack. I recommend the icon RXT, or Dobinson for your use.

 

@Max DeFrost
Checking to see how things turned out with the custom leaf packs. Hope they met your expectations!

 

What bags could you put in? I have some mild porpoising on some sections of highway and think adding bags might help.

 

never to be seen again

 

i just run the Firestone bags. A little thing I ran into is the clapping sound the bags would make on the bare plastic cradle when the back suspension is working. I cut circles of yoga mat, cut some drain holes and silicone glued them into the cradle. Now it’s totally quiet