El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

Looks a lot better than mine if it makes you feel better haha. And +1 on all that cutting…

I would be interested if you can get a dropped and compressed measurement from hub to body line or something similar that could be compared. I would be interested to know if RCVs allow the same droop as modified tundra axles you are using or no.

You could also probably gain some uptravel depending when your coilover bottoms out but it puts the skid in the ground a lot and takes a lot of clearance.

 

There is a little bit of up travel left if I took off the rubber emergency bumps on the coilovers. My hydro bumps are set at full squish at the rubber bumps. But, with the 37s, I'd have to clearance above the tire if I go up any more. That's something I'll eventually do, but right now it's a battle for another day... I need to get this shit together before Hammers lol

Right now, I'm just running Vatozone "extended travel" CVs. I'm pretty sure the RCVs give better droop than modified Tundra, which should definately give better droop than these.

The plan has always been to upgrade to the fully fabricated spindles and RCV CVs because I want the Dana 44 manual hubs so I can throw these f'n unit bearings in the garbage where they belong. (That's why I just went with Vatozone CVs)

 

I called Solo when they came out with the new Lower Arms. They aren't offering any kind of trade in. It's 1400 bucks if you want the new arms... and then you end up with a set of boat anchors taking up room in your garage, because no one is going to buy just a set of LT arms.

(I did not talk to Bobby)

 

FYI...

I did clearance above the tire, but it was by wailing on it with a hammer. If I want additional clearance with the 37s, it will probably need to involve more cutting.

 

Heads up when you do cut and set bumps all that body compresses down a ton a lot in my case. I pushed it all up a couple inches and can clear my 37s on jack stands with room to spare. It still will rub 35s when I jump it because everything flexes so much.

Everything in front of my firewall is cracked and it has worn body mount bushings though so I’m sure that doesn’t help.

 

I think that may be one thing that's helping me with clearance. My body mount bushings aren't worn and they are 1 inch taller than stock.

 

LT and wheel spacers?

 

Could be keeping the tire off the upper

 

LT doesn't have anything to do with wheel backspacing.

 

And the caliper, and the spindle truss.

 

I noticed those don’t have much poke - what’s the backspacing on them? Don’t think I’ve seen those kind before.

And to clarify what I wrote about the Lexus caliper part numbers - I remember now how it goes. Ordering an oem caliper for any model year with a 14xx will get you a caliper with the 14WB marking on it. Specifying the year will determine the bolt size they make the hole for.

 

Gathering my thoughts on what is still left to do.

Still waiting on the 3rd member. Not ECGS fault, it just got to them today.

Need to
- Install 3rd member
- Install axles
- I think I'm going to pull the 5th leaf out of the pack
which means I have to figure out how to press the
bracket out of the 5th leaf and put it in the 4th leaf
- Properly pack and set preload on rear hubs
- Install Emergency brake shoes
- Install rear brake calipers
- Bleed entire brake system
- Figure out how to run Emergency brake line to the brakes
- Make mounting plate for winch disconnect,
and 2 unrelated breakers, at the Aux battery
- Wire rear winch
- Spool rear winch
- Install new Catalytic converter
- Re-route exhaust around traction bar front mount
- Undercoat front wheel wells
- Bleed coilovers (oil)
- Re-install coilovers
- Replace back lower control arm nuts/bolts (too long, ripping rack bellows)
- Replace rack bellows
- At this point, pour stop leak in rack (battle for another day)

- Would like to also re-build the tailgate/swing out/ tire carrier,
but don't know if I'll have time.

That's the basics... I think I'm forgetting shit. But that is the minimum before I can even think about taking this thing to Hammers.

 

Update

Need to
- Install 3rd member
- Install axles
- I think I'm going to pull the 5th leaf out of the pack
which means I have to figure out how to press the
bracket out of the 5th leaf and put it in the 4th leaf
- Properly pack and set preload on rear hubs
- Install Emergency brake shoes
- Install rear brake calipers
- Bleed entire brake system
- Figure out how to run Emergency brake line to the brakes
- Make mounting plate for winch disconnect,
and 2 unrelated breakers, at the Aux battery DONE
- Wire rear winch
- Spool rear winch DONE
- Install new Catalytic converter
- Re-route exhaust around traction bar front mount
- Undercoat front wheel wells DONE
- Bleed coilovers (oil) DONE
- Re-install coilovers DONE
- Replace back lower control arm nuts/bolts (too long, ripping rack bellows) DONE
- Replace rack bellows
- At this point, pour stop leak in rack (battle for another day)

- Would like to also re-build the tailgate/swing out/ tire carrier,
but don't know if I'll have time.

Also neeed to add:
- Safety wire leaf spring bolts
- Adjust travel on rear bumpstops
- Re-install and re-fill rear bumpstops
- Re-fill front bumpstops

 

Well... that was a bitch. LOL

 

Had to order more wire to finish the win h wiring. But, I wanted to see if it worked and would spool right. So, I jumped it with battery cables lol.

Winch is spooled.

 

Took a look at the emergency brakes. Realized I need to go ahead and order the brake cables for either side. That way I can get them strung while I do the shoes, before I install the hubs (and the hub is in the way).

Realized the back spring retainer for the brake shoes has to go in before the Drotor brackets are bolted on.

When I went to re-torque the bolts is when I realized the bolts are only 8.8 (to hold the entire wheel and brake assembly on) Ordered 10.9.

 

Interested to see what you do for e brake cable layout - I'll be doing something that won't reuse the oe style single cable running down to the pumpkin and using two cables.

 

That's what I'll be doing. It'll have driver/passenger side cable. Not strung across the axle. (I f'n hate that design, always have).

For now, I need to get the cables mounted so the end can bolt inside the brakes. I may just zip tie them up out of the way till I figure out how to do them from where they meet up and up to the lever.

 

Diff (locker and re-gear) is complete and shipped today.

 

According to FedEx Tracking, 3rd member should be here Saturday