leaf spring shackle won't come loose

I got all nuts loose for the leaf spring, and I'm struggling with getting the bottom part of the bracket loose. The bolts are pressed into the bracket, so I have to pound out the whole bracket. I tried pounding on the nut a lot with a sledge. The top one moves, but not the bottom. I think the bushings are creating too much friction.

What's the trick?

I considered sliding everything off the top one and replacing the shackle, but the shackle kit 0448304030 is discontinued with no aftermarket options! My 2wd has a bushing on both ends of both bolts, which is how I can tell it's not the same as the 4wd version that is everywhere on Amazon and ebay.

 

Support the leafpack weight a bit with your floor jack. Put a 2x4 bock of wood across both bolt end and tap on that evenly.

 

Not sure if you've removed the leaf spring but if not:

Are both tires off the ground? Preferably both removed.

Is the other leaf spring loose?

Are the u bolts loosened?

Your not going to have enough play in the springs to remove the leafs without loosing everything up.this has been my experience.

 

Tires off the ground, stands under the frame rails, and I lowered the jack to only hold a tiny bit of weight of the differential so the springs are sagging all the way. Left tire removed which is the side I'm working on. Spare tire lowered. U bolts loose. I haven't loosened anything for the right leafs yet.

 

I'm a second Gen guy who hasn't owned a 1st Gen in years but the preferred technique with the second Gen is to remove the bolt in the spring hanger and then pull the leaf pack with the hanger still attached. It just comes out easier like that.

If the springs are sagging under their own weight than you will not be able to remove the bolt, you need to unweigh the springs.

 

Ok, I'll try jacking the spring slightly.

I figure as hard as it is to get the shackle loose from the spring eye now, it's going to be even harder with the spring removed where it's not braced against anything, so I'm trying to do it before detaching.

 

I had the same problem when I did my leafs. Jack to move the leaf around, sledge + hate did the rest.

 

I have a 2x4 I can try. I'm not sure a 2x4 will help since I was already pounding hard enough on the nut to make it flare (I have spare nuts).

I'll try supporting the leafpack weight and pound again.

 

Update - I supported the leafpack weight, sprayed silicone in a few spots at the bushing with the help of a hose pick, waited 30 minutes, hammered more with a sledge against a 2x4. Not moving.

Perhaps pull the leafpack with shackle off the truck, attack the leafpack eye shackle bushing with a drill, and clean up the shackle bolt? I have all new bushings with confirmed fit.

Drilling sound good? I had to reassemble for now. It's my dd. I can try again later if it sounds like a good plan.

 

Do you have a bigass C clamp or two? mechanical press.

Also instead of silicon, try some penetrant. I once unseized a semi container chassis sliding tandem axle with a shitload of WD40, a sledge, and a yard tractor. I could not make it budge until I sprayed the shit out of it with WD40 and walked away to take a break.

 

Never have tried drilling but could you burn the old bushings out with a torch? Then remove inner sleeve with hacksaw.

 

I tried a C clamp, but there's no good surface for the other side of the C clamp to hold onto out of the way as I press the bolt.

I tried penetrating fluid too. Would WD-40 be better?

 

I only have a little butane torch.

I think there is an inner metal sleeve that is inside the bushing and is fused to the shackle bolt, and if it's there I need to reuse it. I might have to look again.

 

1. well shit
2. IDK it has unfucked shit for generations. For metal to metal yes. The silicon likely helped for the rubber, but any corrosion will require a penetrant.

If all that fails apply heat. But maybe before the WD 40 LOL.

Sucks when things so sideways on a daily driver.

 

Can you get us some more pictures OP? Might be helpful for us to see how you have everything supported.

 

I'm suspecting now that the Dorman 722-023 shackle kit is actually compatible with 2wd, despite what they say. These look identical. I might just order them and see.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3861006&cc=1278930&pt=7484&jsn=894

 

I will if I can. But I want to wait until I'm ready with another plan and more tools or parts or something before I set it up and do all this over again, and then if I get stuck again I'll take more pics.

 

Update - The Dorman leaf spring shackle kit I ordered all matches up perfectly. There are several other brands besides Dorman, and I'm surprised that all of them are wrong when they advertise them as 4wd compatible only. I'm not 100% on it yet until i do the job, but from what I could tell today, every dimension of the shackles, bushings, pins, and threads are right.

Should I grease the 2 shackle pins and front eyelet bolt on each side, but leave dry the outside surface of the bushings that are pressed into the leaf spring eyes? That's how I understand it, that you only want the bolts/pins to rotate.

 

Not sure about your setup, but what you described is exactly how ARB recommends installing their bushings when installing Dakar leaf packs.

 

Yes. Grease on metal to metal contact.

Also, do not torque until wheels are in the ground.