Fender Trimming! So many people, so little info.

when it comes to trimming and cutting
the two main tools being a jigsaw and grinder

is it worth getting cheap ones?

I have a good grinder, but it's corded
and IDK if I should keep being loud, with neighbors
jigsaw cutting metal, and grinder, is loud. Not for me (earmuffs) but maybe them.

Truck doesn't really fit in the garage to close it.
I got lucky last time. Did it at a friend's work. But need to cut more.

So I'm wondering if cheap ones work. IDK if Home Depot rental is even cordless.
Or if the battery even lasts long enough, or how long

in an ideal world, I think a Milwaukee, Ryobi, or Rigid cordless would do just fine
18V, bigger battery
2.0Ah seems like a joke. M18 5.0Ah sounds more like it.
Lets you go find some place people are not at, then go to town in the sunlight.
Problem is, these "sales" now end up being like $300+ for both
and that's a lot of money to spend on two little cutters that will rarely ever get used again
I can't help but notice the cheap ones that may work.
Like Harbor Freight has a cordless jigsaw, I believe 18V, like $40-50.

 

What I've learned through a lot of home improvement and other projects is the tool is not as important as the blade/bit you are using. Spending money on good quality bits and blades will have more of an impact than spending the money on the tool. If you have shitty drill bits and shitty blades, it don't matter how fancy the tool is.

 

I found cutting the body (floor mostly) was easier with a sawzall, but cutting the fenders was way easier and cleaner if you traced then slit the fender arch with a grinder.

 

Has anyone ever figured out how to measure from the top, to cut?

so that it's more precise and even on all 4 in relation to the holes

I initially "measured and marked" from the bottom with a home made tool, and trimmed 1"
but with all the bendy curves on the metal, tabs, etc. my cuts didn't come out perfect
there's gonna be a better way to do this that's escaping me right now...

I want to cut a second inch off,
but knowing that my original reference point was crap
therefore my second reference point (1" cut) will also be crap
will result in a crap 2" trim



I *think* the fender in the area of holes, has a sort of "line" curve where it angles out, running the whole fender
I'll check again
If it does, maybe I can use one of these to mark based on that from the top.

 

When cutting fenders is it worth leaving little tabs to attach fender liners? For those that have no liners do you regret it or no big deal? My intake is already rerouted so I'm not worried about that but was thinking liners would keep it a little cleaner..

 

Sub'd

 

How does everyone smooth and paint the bare metal edges after a trim, to prevent rust?

I don't know if a handheld orbital sander would work on the fender, since it's curved and the sander is flat

Back when I trimmed rear fenders for HC bumper, I ran some sandpaper along the edge after. Made it better but not perfect.
Then grabbed my 3-in-1 $10 touchup thing, used it, slapped a bunch on the edge.
But despite that, after some time, there is now rust there. Hidden behind the edge trim I put on.

Honestly, I feel like a tiny roller, or cheap foam brush dabbing it
dipped into primer, paint, clear
would do a better job and be easier to do. Though probably not as cheap as touchup.

Or, since at this point it gets hidden behind edge trim
and has rusted
maybe POR-15.

 

I remember reading this thread a couple of months ago.
I only trimmed metal on the rear of my front fender and freehanded it with an oscillating multi-tool metal cutting blade.
I only used my tacoma color touch up paint, no sand, and I went thick as it would be covered.
If I had to do a full fender cut, I would try a jig saw and fine blade over trace line over painters tape, and hope for the best, like Tacomaholic did on his youtube channel.

 

I used a deburring bit to smooth out the edges and then I I used Rust-Oleum spray paint. I sprayed it onto a piece of cardboard and then I dabbed it on the edges of the bare metal.

 

Made something like this to take an initial inch off the fender to at least have some cut then re evaluate. Flares deleted.

I think it will need more trim for spacers and to look better. Thinking of doing front and rear the same. I know some people do them different cuts.

Does anyone know if there’s a better method?

im thinking of taking the truck to a classic car pinstripe guy, explaining the goal, and asking if they can draw a permanent trace line for me to then cut.
I don’t know how factories do it and don’t know of a better way. If this works (pinstripe guy) it probably wouldn’t cost that much for a good result given it’s a simple curve and not intricate design.

 

I just figured it out…

take a mudflap bend it curved
Hold it along the fender and draw your line
Maybe have a helper hold it while you verify equal distance to the fender holes

should turn out better if not perfect.

problem is an actual mudflap would be to small and flexible.
Anyone know something that would work as such a tool?

there might be sign or poster board
Sheeting
Home Depot probably has something

kind of like this


not something corrugated fragile that bends sharp and breaks

don’t know if it’s better to tape first then do this
Or draw line bare then tape and cut

buddy had a sheet just like that for a home project. I’ll see if I can find out what it was and where they got it.

only other thing I can think might work is a roll of metal flashing. I have one already that I was gonna make a cowl shield with before PELE came out with 3d printed one.

maybe with enough length it could get placed into shape and hopefully hold position for marking. It may be too small thin and flimsy for that though and create waves instead of a solid curve.

 

I did what tacomaholic did. I used a tape measure and a sharpie. It was pretty easy and turned out well. I used a jig saw to cut everything.

 

just realized a flaw with flashing. It’s straight not curved. So it might not reach to the bottom corner. Unless I mark sections at the time.

basically the issue is my previous cut starting at the bottom is very close to the truck body. Not much more room to cut.

so it would not be a straight even line to the top of the fender where much more material needs taken off. Using a protractor thing wouldn’t cut it. Unless I make or use an adjustable one that can be opened up slowly real time while drawing the curve.

instead of the home made one I used last time which was fixed position.

not my truck but what I mean is kind of like red vs green area

 

Couldn’t find a big board at Home Depot but was pointed towards this



Held it up to the fender seems perfect

going to look for a bunch of magnets to tack pinch it on hands free in desired shape to draw line without the chance of hand hold wobbling

I have the small pack of neodymium ones from harbor freight but it’s probably not enough

this might work. Enough to do a fender at a time. Measure the flexy “tool” distance to holes for inches spacing the same on every fender

only variable left is determining spacing. I’d think it would make sense to keep it all the same but noticed some folks stagger it claiming the rear needs less cut to clear. Ie 2” off the front 1” off the rears etc

this truck for example got staggered cuts. 2” or 2.”5 front, 1” rear


don’t know yet if I’ll take into consideration the distance of my rear bumper corner regarding the cut



might have to deal with the PITA of masking everything off to have tape to draw on
Then draw a ton of lines and measurements before drawing the curve on that
So the paint doesn’t turn into graffiti

 

Body shop showed me a nibbler let me cut a metal sign with it

amazing. Precise, controlled, quiet. Cut through it like nothing. Butter.

told me that would be better than jigsaw.
Has anyone confirmed? May order one to try or at least look up thickness compatibility and measure my fender with a caliper.

hopefully it would work. Lot better than a jigsaw. No shaking. Reach into tighter spaces.



if I’m not mistaken Milwaukee nibbler max thickness is 16ga which is 1.6mm
Last time I checked fender is 1.2mm
So should theoretically work.

 

Tried magnets, Home Depot edging, roll of flashing. No dice did not work.

grabbed the winch bracket off my ARB bumper which conveniently slides on the fender and has a hole to stick a marker.

drew and cut. Used nibbler. Quiet and fast but more wavy wobbly and jagged than a jigsaw which a jigsaw too still has an element of that.

grinded ARB to match right before the internal reinforcement. Hopefully an end cap can be welded on.



trying to figure out how to sand smooth to achieve curve and remove wiggles. And how to paint.

paint am thinking slap foam brushes into paint and dab it on. Primer base clear.

sanding curious to know what folks recommend
Best idea I can come up with so far is:
-80 grit
-rounded sanding block
-break a sweat use that by hand and eye
-get it as close to perfect as I can then paint, maybe edge trim
-first cycle suspension to check clearance is fixed before committing to cut edge trim under assurance this is a Final Cut…