Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

20 minute normal driving a couple times a day down country highways/dirt roads, pretty normal. It does go up dirt "roads" on a regular basis, but we're not hammering on it. Haven't seen the issue on other vehicles we use in similar pattern.

I typically get between 18-20 mpg, which would suggest how it's driven.

 

Blackstone https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

Yes, Blackstone.

Are you assuming they used Mobil 1, or did they tell you they were using Mobil 1? My understanding is that dealers often use whatever they can get for the cheapest price by the drum. Although they sell Toyota oil (rebranded Mobile 1) at the parts counter, that is not what is used in the service department.

 

Agree, most dealerships use bulk oil of various brands in the service department.

The Toyota branded oil from the parts counter is manufactured by Exxon Mobil, however it is not "re-branded", it is an exclusive to Toyota formula.

 

This thread has been very informative. Definitely sticking with 5k OCI after seeing those internal photos...

 

The top left looks like some serious cracking however I can't tell where/orientation of this photo.

 

For reference, Similar to the Chrysler head pic in the previous post above, my 2014 4.0 has had 5W30 full-synthetic and occasional conventional oil changes every 5,000 miles average over it's life. Currently at 128k. A look down the oil fill tube on my truck shows just slightest and faint amber sheen on the timing chain and surfaces of the head: and about the same color as the oil on the dipstick when I check it. No trace of any black specs or sludge anywhere which is what I'd expect.

 

While we really shouldn’t be jumping to conclusions, this is a case for the topic that “OCI are not equal”.

Again, no need to jump to conclusions.
There’s a slight possibility the oil pump was failing and not supplying enough oil to sufficiently cool the engine. Yes, oil cools too.

If it were me. I’d be changing the oil at 1/2 the previous mileage you were.
It isn’t going to hurt it.

 

Those are casting marks

 

Why not a Toyota diesel or v8 swap?

 

Some have speculated that the manufacturers OCI recommendation of 10K has nothing to do with reliability and longevity and that its just about getting the vehicle past the warranty period with no issues. By setting the OCI at 10K it reduces the operating cost to the original owner, less oil changes equals a lower operating cost for the consumer. Low operating cost are a deciding factor for lots of new car buyers.

We hear a lot of talk about how the manufacturer wouldn't have set the OCI at 10K if it was going to reduce long term engine reliability. B.S.

Manufacturer's know that most people don't hold onto a car past 100K miles if that, so as long as the original owner has a trouble free experience for those 100K miles they will probably buy the same make of car when the time comes to trade in.

Remember that manufacturers make their money off the original buyer of the vehicle and have little concern for the 2nd, and 3rd owner of the vehicle. Those people are not the ones buying the new vehicles.

Not saying the above is true, it's just a point of view and one I tend to think is probably spot on.

 

Blackstone oil labs seem to be the choice on here. I have used them several times.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/services/pay/

 

Have you ever seen the colour of engine oil after a fresh change, start up and then a level check. You will not be worried about oil colour...

 

Would have been noticed but a thermostat that was stuck open or wouldn't fully close could even cause this. Engine would never get fully up to temp ...

 

I operate off the principle that it’s all junk. I just try to make the garbage last as long as I can. Because it’s designed to be “easier” to trash it than fix it.

Prolong the life is about as good as it gets anymore.

 

Everyone is focused on the oil but this jumped out at me.

Over rev? That engine needs to be turning at 4000-4500 rpm to be in its power band. It won't hurt a thing for rpms to be that high when towing. In fact if you're trying to stay in high gears and do it at 3000-3500 rpm you will overstress and overheat the engine. That oil looks to me like it has gotten way too hot rather than staying in the engine too long.

 

The pictures show an Automatic Transmission.
If the logic of the Auto allows the truck to lug that bad, something is “wrong”.
While it does look like things got “hot” to some degree.
I don’t think it was due to lugging. The transmission should have given out before the engine if it was a towing issue.

 

Was the truck locked into S4 for towing? Or just left in Drive? Really just curious, since it’s the engine not the trans having issues here. But S4 will keep it at higher RPM’s for anything higher speed.

 

not sure what your point is but yes, in my lifetime i have seen the color (correct spelling ) of oil after a fresh change hundreds possibly thousands of times on many types of gas and diesel engines. it has always been a light golden color, just like it is when you pour it out of the bottle.