1st Gen Long Travel Chat

Are you running a standard universal 8" coiler from king? looking at getting an MCM kit and would like to stick with king VS ADS. the compressed length of the ADS shock is 1" shorter than the king so curious if you modified your coil mount. thanks!

 

Hey, well i stayed with king because i get them with a nice discount but yes they are a tad longer and that will affect your up travel drastically, so i thought about cutting the upper mount but that will be too much work and not into that big of a change right now, had quoted ads coilovers and seriously thinking about switching but i am wanting to go sas so still not sure

Contact jd fab, heard they get the short kings

 

Anyone know of a +2 kit for us 1st gens like there is for the newer gen stuff?

 

Unfortunately it's all +3.5 or wider for the 1GTacos.

 

The whole 3.5” design began with oem 1G tundra axles fitting and not needing to buy extended axle shafts. For that reason and how many fewer dollars are spent on 1G tacos, the profit margin isn’t there for a +2 kit on our older platform. Solo and BTF make nice stock length arms and they’ll move the tire an inch forward to keep it off of your firewall a bit more when going to 33’s and up.

 

I made a ~+1.75" kit that used the Trakmotive Extreme Axles, but the travel gain was severely limited by the TRI's so I've basically scrapped those plans to make something thats in ~+4" territory using the Trakmotive Extreme 1G Tundra axles and Raptor Shocks to keep it cheap.

I work VERY slowly, also rolled the truck last year so that slowed things down even further...

 

Any photo's of this? 2nd gen tacoma axle shafts, especially the trakmotive sliding version could be a good option for a 2'' LT kit because the axles are a little longer than ours. Any reason you didn't just go to heim steering to deal with the binding issue?

 

Heim inners were on the shelf when I wrecked the truck. I could have sworn I had pictures, but none in my build thread... I need to dig around. I know I have some of the kinetics and drawings around. I really struggled to get more effective travel even without the tie rods installed... I'll measure the trackmotive axles as I still have those but they weren't long enough for a full +2

 

Yeah I'd love to see some pictures. Been toying around with the idea a lot myself. Were you using 1st or 2nd gen tacoma trackmotive axles? I think 2nd gen trackmotive tacoma axles would get you the full 2''. I need to go buy a set of those axles and confirm before I further dive into this. Custom axles is always an option but not cheap.

Here's the UCA I designed for the kit that I might make. Haven't yet started designing the lower.

 

that looks great!

I did all weldment since I have a CNC Plasma.

The only catch with the 2nd gen axles is that they have different splines.
This led me to investigate a whole subframe swap/custom subframe, front steer spindles, 8 in diff, plus LBJ in compression!! but I never continued this path of investigation out of laziness and I needed to go closer to 3.5" to work with the cheaply available raptor shocks, I still think of this sometimes, specifically for front steer and LBJ... but not actively doing anything.

 

Been done on this truck:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.mo...runner-proves-ifs-doesnt-have-to-be-weak/amp/

 

I think even getting the 9.5" Tundra clamshell to bolt in is relatively easy, the trick is shortening the PS stub shaft, as well as the custom axles.

MY personal goal is to improve off-road and on road performance reducing the amount of custom components required... RCV Axles cost $2k, the Trakmotive with a spare and Lifetime warranty are $300, are they as strong? absolutely not!
I do wonder if the Trakmotive CV ends can be swapped between the different generations, last time I called them they were surprisingly helpful for such a large supplier vs a "bespoke" supplier.

I know it all CAN be done, and I know I can fab up anything to work reasonably well with enough time... but performance vs cost vs reliability lol, andtrying to pick 3 instead of 2 leaves me with no progress haha.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/04-tacoma-turned-buggy.165208/page-10#post-20653472

Unless doing a serious buggy or crawler it seems a bit much

 

I agree and remember that build. It matches with what I said?

 

You had mentioned shortening the stub shaft on the 9.5 and he figured it out eventually.

 

Anyone in the SD, national city and below, can cut some stuff for me
I have raw cardboard cutouts but i can send the meassurement as well

 

Random but just came across this regarding the 9.5 stub shaft too

https://youtu.be/Dx2mAtQekUw?t=710

 

What hurts the 9” clamshell stuff most in my opinion is where it profiles down after the splines. And it is a giant diff to fit in this platform which is not helped by the aluminum clamshell. But if you shorten the add the right amount you can make stock tundra axles work on a 3.5 kit.

in the 7.5 swapping to a manual hub shaft didn’t do jack shit for me strength wise. Just a little easier to swap on the trail but they are a pain in the ass to find and the front driveshaft spins full time.

my front arb is pissing air so I’m thinking about tracking down a 8” clamshell to mock up in there and see what it looks like. It would be a bummer to have to fab spindles for the spline change and a 3.5 kit is a little skinny for +2 axles on that platform.

Maybe I need to see if RCV will make inners for the 30 spline that I can cobble together with the 27 spline outer joint.

If I remember right my math says the 30 spline 8” add stub should be about 60% stronger than the 27 spline 7.5 add stub and the tundra 36? Spline stub is about 30% stronger than the 30.

 

I'm not sure that you had see our previous posts, but the 8" does seem like a good fit in the 1st gen platform and that 3rd gen 4runner had made it work by using a custom long travel kit. Also the buggy build with the 9" front diff seems to be the right kind of build for a big front diff.

Doing a manual hub swap on my 3rd gen 4runner and running some part numbers brought me upon this, I don't know if it comes loaded with bearings, but pretty cheap when considering a lot of used ones go for $200

https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-p...9dGFjb21hJnk9MTk5NSZ0PXNyNSZlPTMtNGwtdjYtZ2Fz

 

Yea I couldn’t track down much info on the 4runner with the 8” so I figured just buy one to see how it would fit. This is the first time I remember seeing that article so thank you for sharing.

Talking with Josh with the tacoma buggy, it is more work to fit a 9” than I really think I’m confident in. Grind the whole clamshell down and would still have to cut up crossmember, oil pan, and bellhousing very aggressively. Then 2k for regear and locker and another 3k+ for the custom length passenger side shaft. There is a possibility this could be made a lot cheaper with that 200 series solid shaft though. This is the first time I saw those.

Either way I haven’t had any issues with the r&p of the 7.5 beating on it hard with RCVs but I go through stub shafts fast. I got two full assemblies so I can do a quick swap while I’m wheeling though. I just order replacement shafts from amayama. End up getting them for like 110 each when I order a few at a time. Not terrible for a new oem part.