2.7l Cylinder 3 misfire

Yes it was misfiring with the p303 code as well

 

That would certainly do it, I've seen injectors that work fine when they are cold but go open circuit when they get hot.

Also seen some that were restricted/plugged, only way to find that is an injector balance test.

 

How is it that it passed their flow test when it is non-op? Did it magically fail on the trip back from the shop? I cant imagine the excuse they will give.

 

See my post above, they may work fine cold but go open circuit when they get hot.

 

Follow up on the injector:

Took throttle body off, cleaned it. Pulled the fuel rail and put the new oem injector in. Let the truck get up to full temp and no misfire. I got in the truck to give it some gas just to make sure and when I give throttle it squeals so damn bad. Sounds like a belt/pulley? Now it will not idle below 1800rpm. Could this be because I clean the throttle body with brakeclean? Am I a dipshit for that? This project has been the gift that keeps on giving thanks for sticking to help me fellas.

 

Did you unhook the battery after cleaning the throttle body to reset the PCM?

1st gens also had an issue with the throttle body wearing and the throttle blade not sealing although I believe that issue was more common on the 3.4L

 

Oh shit no I did not, I took the IAC sensor off cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner and qtip and then put it back together. Disconnected battery and restarted and it is idling at ~1750 rpm

 

Been letting the truck run for about 20 minutes now and it is down to 1500 rpm and will bounce around between 1250-1500rpm. It almost died once too. Not sure what the issue is.

 

Did you make sure your throttle body isn't worn?

 

I did not, standby I’ll pull it again and take a look. How should I inspect it? Just put a flashlight behind and look for a light on other side?

 

Yea, most of the ones I've seen pictures of on here the blade is shifted off to one side like the picture I posted above.

 

Okay I took the TB off and this is what it looks like. Appears there is still a lot of gap around the valve and it isn’t closing all the way.

 

I tried to adjust the nut for the throttle and it seems to be adjusted as far as it can go. I inspected the valve some more, and there is a small bit of slop side to side on it however whichever way I move it it won’t completely seal. Time to buy a new one??

 

That one looks fine to me, did you remove the coil off the IAC and check that it is not stuck?

 

I took it off and cleaned it but did not test it. I’ll run a test and report back. Also, to clean the actual IAC sensor there are some weird 5 star screws that hold them in. Would it be good to take that off and clean it if the tests are good or better to just get a whole new sensor

 

Probably security torx screws, the bits for them are pretty easy to find.

 

I expect they’re regular torx rather than security but the difference is security have a raised pin in the center. Harbor Freight has sets for ~$6.

 

The last one I messed with on a Camry had security torx holding the motor coil onto the IAC, in either case the bits are pretty easy to come by.

 

Update:I tested for resistance on the pins for the IAC valve. No reading whatsoever, it must be toast. I ordered to new one from napa it should come in tomorrow. Will give another update once installed. And interesting on the torx screws I haven’t seen anything like this.

 

Damn, this thread has spanned a long time. We had an ice storm here where I live so it took a while for the new IAC valve to get in. Finally put it in and hurray, it idles ~700-800 rpm when at temp. Thank you so much for sticking with me and helping me with this project for those who commented. The belts are pretty squeaky still however, any thoughts on getting them to quiet down?